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May be of interest; http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/HacklePliers

http://www.canada.com/topics/news/story.ht...be-789a4836b478 TL MC

There are very many possibilities, here are a couple; http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/YarnCaddis http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/YarnZonker http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/ConnorsClonker TL MC http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/HomePage

http://www.flytek.co.uk/acatalog/New_Products.html Cheaper here http://www.feather-craft.com/wecs.php?stor...p;target=RT0050

I have had bugs in various materials, also in materials from fly-shops and mail order firms. Carpet beetles are the worst, but there are plenty of others. I have also seen some collections of material devastated by various pests. With regard to the various repellents etc. this may be of interest; http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/BugsPests Various "flavoured" chemicals as described in the posts above, may or may not work! At least in regard to PDCB and Napthalene, they will work, and airing your materials in a warm place will completely remove the smell or traces of the chemicals, as both these substances sublimate directly, ( turn from a solid into a gas), and this happens quickly if they are only slightly warmed. Cedar and other similar things like lavender and various other herbs are only mild repellents, and you should definitely not rely on them. One or two people I know use the insect strips, ( Dichlorvos CAUTION WITH THIS It is an extremely toxic poison and may cause cancer! See here; http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts88.html ), and a couple use pieces of the "flea collars" sold for protecting dogs and cats from fleas and ticks. I don´t know whether this is completely reliable. I still use PDCB in all my containers, which are airtight polythene cases. Washing material in hot soapy water which is hotter than 55°C (degrees Celsius), for at least ten minutes, will kill all bugs, and their eggs.

Have a look here; http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/framing/ http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/frami...ndex&cl=pic

Antelope hair is the best there is for a number of things. It is the best "spinning" hair of all, and may also be used for a number of other things, depending whereabouts on the animal it is harvested, and the exact type of antelope. Impala http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impala was once used a lot, as were one or two others like Dikdik and Blackbuck. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dikdik http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackbuck If you can get it, then go for it. It is normally extremely difficult to obtain.

Yes, if one wishes to be pedantic, originally "Kip" tail was antelope ( there are various sorts), but is now more or less universally used to describe calf tail, which was originally used as a substitute.

Dyed seagull feathers ( "Quill" feathers). Pick them up on the beach.( The large primary feathers, http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/WingFeathers Same goes for Heron herl. http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/Heron

The sleeves I mentioned are known as "Core end sleeves", and practically any electrical or similar shop will have them. I have also used these for dressing tube flies; http://lapplimited.lappgroup.com/14/en/web...2317/index.html They can also be used as "crimps" on various wire pike tackles etc. I have also used them to make "propellers" for "Pistol Petes" and the like. They are easy to solder. TL MC

A really excellent idea and method. I would just like to add that one may use a "sleeve" over the loop. These sleeves are the things used to put on the end of cables. One can slide the sleeve down to "lock" the loop tight. I have also used pieces of Q-tip for this. Works well on this sand eel for instance; http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/SandEelTube TL MC

The main problem on such flies is getting a link which is stiff enough to hold the hook where you want it to be without sagging etc. Fairly strong nylon is the best I have found for flies that are not used on extremely "toothy critters". Otherwise, you have to use wire of some sort. Strength of the nylon or wire you choose, mainly depends on the weight of the rear hook. For large dressed stinger hooks you need heavier gauge material. Also, nylon monofilament varies considerably, you need stiff mono for such mounts, like the Mason hard mono. TL MC

No problem at all. I just recently found a lot of ads for SLF with Mr.Whitlock´s name, while researching something else. This fogs up the true evolution of this material, and I don´t like such misleading advertising. I certainly was not attempting to censure you in any way at all. My apologies if it sounded like that. TL MC

The SLF dubbing was invented by Davy Wotton. WAPSI bought the company from him. http://shopflyfishingspecialties.com/wapsi...g-pr-16354.html He is now a guide on the White River http://www.whiteriver.net/fly-fishing-report/ Mr.Whitlock has "designed" a few blends, but he did not invent or discover the material. To the original poster. If you can´t obtain seal fur, then get some Mohair from your local wool shop etc. It is a pretty good natural substitute. http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/MoHair TL MC

There is a big difference between the 3407 and the 34007 Mustads. The 3407´s are "tinned" presumably with tin! Which makes them slippery in a smooth tempered vice jaw. http://www.mustad.no/abouthooks/q_products.php http://www.tackletogo.com/mus34100box.html http://www.tackletogo.com/mus3470.html By the way, you need to use white cartridge paper or similar to wrap around the hook bend. "Slippery" paper will slip! TL MC