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Hoppers77

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About Hoppers77

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    Beginner

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  • Location
    Wyoming
  1. Professionally, the bug that bugs me the most is the fruit fly. Drosophilia melangastor in particular. People who work with these things call themselves entomologists, when in reality they are more genetists than anything. IT is like calling your tomato plant a farm! Personally, I dislike scuds. If I have to tie a scud, or worse fish with one, I might as well use a worm. There is something that is just too common about a scud. Fish are constantly eating scuds, winter, spring, summer and fall. Scuds, scuds, scuds,..They are so boring to fish with. You may get a strike, you may not. But you do know that if a fish sees your fly it will most likely take it. Might as well just use a worm and a fish finder....
  2. Understandable. That is a fair way of thinking. THank you for all that you have done. Keep up the excellent work.
  3. Will, Is it possible to release the number of votes? I am curious to see how bad I got 'smoked'. I know there were a lot of great looking flies, I am just curious if some were heavy favorites, and others were almost too close to call.
  4. Congratulations to everyone that entered. Most importantly, to all rookies that gave their best. Keep up the good work. This was my first ever competition in fly tying. Although I have been tying for over a decade, I was beside my self to see rookie tiers tie better than I. I think you all have a great gift, creative minds, and artistic hands. You all have sparked a fire inside me to tie better than I have been. Thank you. This will probably mean more fish on the end of my line. More over, I wish you all the best of luck on the streams and rivers of life. I will most look forword to seeing more awesome flies, and tying techniques posted here at this board.
  5. This is how I tie the bullet head of the maddam X, I use Elk hair, (it is a bit longer) measure the length of hair as you would with for an Elk Hair Caddis, just use a bit more, about the diameter of a pencil. Then transfer the hair to the other hand, turning it around so that the ends of the hair are pointing away from the tail. Tie in at measured distance leaving the rest sticking out front. Trim excess tag end, and tread torque it down wrapping up to the eye of the hook. Bring thread back to 1/4 distance from eye . Carefully move all fibers back over itself (now the ends are pointing toward the rear of the hook)...All of this is done with the thread still 1/4 hook shank distance away from the eye... With a hollow tube ( empty pen barrel, plastic drinking straw, or the brass bullet head makers) slip over eye of the hook and over the hair fibers to the thread position. Leave barrel in place, and wrap a few times cinching everything down. Tie in rubber leggs, and remove barrel (this allows you to reshape if needed. Then whip finish (1/4 distance from eye). Good Luck
  6. Foam flies = thread torque!! When tying foam, it is important to use thread torque when securing the foam to the hook shank. This technique does three things; 1) it helps keep the thread from breaking (some edges of the foam can cut thread). 2) Tie in points will not be as bulky and 3) keeps foam 'square to the shank', the foam will not roll off to one side. To achieve thread torque: First wrap loose, second wrap tight, third wrap tighter, and fourth wrap tightest. Do not try and cinch down the foam on the first wrap. This only brake thread, roll foam, and will not hold foam in place as well, (kinda like stacking hair!). Two things to remember: foam flies are not flies, they are dyno---myte! So if you must use one, might as well use gun powder...cause they are just as effective. Second, foam rides a bit lower (at least my flies do-so do not think that you can see a size 6 black beetle in the water cause it is big, might need to tie in a little orange strike indicator--- Good luck
  7. Will, Great Job. Thank you so much for all of the extra hard work you have put into this contest. I wish everyone good luck, and tight lines.
  8. When tying multiple hackles they tend to wrap over each other. To solve this problem I wiggle the hackle through the previously tied fibers. I also use a needle and tease fibers that get caught under the wraps. It also helps that the hackles are in the same tie in point, and I find that shorter hackle, with finer stems, (higher grade hackle) tend to do this less. In the mean time, while you are learning, tease the fibers out first before tying in the hackle. Just gently pinch the hackle with forefinger and thumbm while holding on to the tip with other hand and run the pinch fingers down the stem. The fibers should stand right out, and stay out! Good luck Hoppers77
  9. Hoppers77

    T&A bunker

    I believe the T and A Bunker is orginally tied with salt water hooks. However, size is not he most important thing. Just make sure the tail hook has a larger hook gap, (this acts like a keel, and keeps the fly in right position in water). Most importantly, is to keep the mono perpendicular to the hook eye. Good luck.
  10. It is true what they say, a stimulator with rubber legs is just a "stimulator with rubber legs". But here is how I tye them for the cutties out west. 0) Tie in a few strands of elk, deer for tail (measure butts and cut at 1/2 up shank),torq down the rest with thread 1) tie in hackle for abodomen rib 2) dub abodomen (orange, yellow, dull yellow) 3) palmer hackle forward to 1/2/ to 3/4 up shank 4) Tie in a few strands of crystal flash, be sure to extend just past the bend 5) Tie in your elk or deer wing, measure the butts to the eye (this gives you a base to tie thorax and gives more support to wing) 6) Tie in hackle again for thorax 7) Tie in rubber legs (I use one strand per side, tying it in the middle of the rubber forces both sides to "v" out making two legs) repeat for other side 8) Dub thorax carefully, this allows you to set the legs where you want them 9) Palemer hackle forward, tie off, and whip finish 10) Trim legs to desired length, (the cutties like rubber so I make sure they are about a shank length). Shorter is stiffer and stiffer is better, and long legs tend to sink just beneath the surface tension. Good Luck
  11. I just sent you a box of flies for the tying contests. Normally I could wait for them to be posted to see if they made it your way, but is there a chance that you could post "user names" of everyone that you have received flies from for the contest. In fact there is one fly in particular that I am worried about. Could you please send me an e-mail to verify that it was received in good shape. You will know which one I am talking about when you get the package. For the rest of you....Just wait and see. Hopefully it arrived unbroken. Thanks Hoppers77
  12. O.k. Well now that we are all settled down somewhat on bobkins, scissors, and hackle pliers, there are a few tools that will undoubtable be needed to tie good flies for bass and such. However, it does not take a big fly to catch a big fish. In Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico most use small nymphs (18-24) to catch the 5-7pders. But since you mentioned tying bass stuff, I assume a lot of hair is being used so: HAIR STACKER! Medium size (brand does not matter), HAIR COMB -I use one of those really old style tooth brushes with the stiff nylon brushes. Works really well, and I find no difference between that and a friends brass hair comb. Finally, and one my most used tools is the ol razor blade. (Gillette double edge Super thin) This is trick that is mostly picked up after some years of tying, but the earlier you start using razor blades, the better you will become at shaping heads, bodies, etc, and trimming the darn little fibers that get caught in the head. The last bit of advise, for all of us, is that all sorts of tools are needed on different occasions to create our minds' image. So when I use one of those tools I IT make a fly tying tool and I buy another to replace whatever kit I took it from. For instance, I use a .270 cal. brass bore cleaner to fluff dubbing, mohair, etc. I use an old barrel of a ball point pin as a head forming tool, and I used to use my wife's needles for all sorts of great tricks (now she uses my needles to sew). The real point being, is that we are all fly tyers second to tool and material collectors. GET A BOX, CRATE, TABLE, TUBBERWARE, TACKLE BOX, whatever to keep things neat and tiddy. There is nothing worse than looking for stuff when you need it and not being able to find it. GOOD LUCK
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