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Salmo22

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About Salmo22

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  • Location
    Mesa, AZ
  1. After a hiatus of several years, I'm in the process of setting up a new fly tying station/desk in my home. While I retained much of my old tying gear, for some reason (i.e. grandkids), I can't find my old lamp. Previously, I had used a Giraffe lamp that I believe is still available - http://www.giraffelamps.com/fly.htm As I recall, it was a very good lamp. However, it did seem to generate a bunch of heat. Accordingly, I'm wondering if it could be retrofitted with a LED bulb that would be cooler than the old incandescent and have a much longer service life? I'm hoping some on this forum may have already retrofitted the Giraffe lamp, or another brand, and can offer their suggestions, experiences, and recommendations? Thanks in advance for your assistance; Jeff
  2. Thank you sir for sharing this link. I apologize for not finding it on my own. The information is just what the doctor ordered.
  3. I've been away from fly tying for several years while attending to my wife as she faced some serious health challenges. As vagaries of life go, I'm in a position to get my materials and equipment out of the attic and start tying again. As I was going through my "stuff", I find the need to restock my thread supply - not sure where all those spools went. I am a disciple of Wayne Luallen and practice (as best I can) his thread control techniques. Accordingly, I need thread that I can spin to flatten, split, and control how I place the thread on the hook. To make an already too long story short, I need help identifying what threads are available that will give me the type of control I've described. With all the offerings currently available to fly tiers, I don't want to make a large investment and find I've purchased thread I can't control/spin as I would like. Unfortunately, my old source for thread is no longer available to me. Any help this group could provide would be sincerely appreciated. Jeff
  4. I've been playing with a photo that I shot in El Centro as BA Opposing Solo #6 passed low and fast over our position. It was a rainy, overcast morning and presented me with post processing challenges that really tested my meager skills with CS5's sliders. I've been goofing with various treatments since then, including a monochrome shot with god beams - clearly a desperate act. I've never been totally satisfied with the final image; until now. This afternoon I was massaging the pixels and finally achieved the look I've been after (It's taken me nearly two months). The Pass
  5. Had the recent privilege of photographing a flight operations at NAF El Centro. This included the daily Blue Angels practice. Here are a few of my favorites.
  6. Firetiger: Thanks for the info. BTW, here in the wild west, we simply bend the barb down with flat nose pliers - it works great.
  7. I hate to admit it; however, I have never really focused on the opportunities for stillwater chironomid fishing in my home state - Arizona. I have a few "token" patterns in one of my boxes, but they rarely see the water. I'm not sure why I have not taken stillwater chironomids more seriously in the past? Maybe the patterns are not as sexy as others or maybe I'm in too big a rush to fish the damsel hatch. What ever the case, I'm going to focus this spring on becoming a better stillwater chironomid fly fisher. Accordingly, I'm going to be tying-up a bunch of different chironomid patterns to fill a large stillwater fly box I've purchased specifically for this purpose. In doing some research, and the Daiichi 1260 looks like a good foundation for some stillwater chironomid patterns. It is a 2XL, round bend, straight-eye, curved shank, bronzed hook. What is your favorite hook for tying stillwater chironomids and why? Thanks.
  8. I like to tie with scissors in-hand. For most of my trout fly tying needs, I use the Dr. Slick 4" Tungsten Carbide. The finger loops are large, the blades are very sharp and it has a fine points for getting into tight areas on small flies. Fact is I like the entire line of Dr. Slick Tungsten Carbide scissors. For working with deer and elk hair, I have become addicted to the Soligen Hair scissors. As Chris Helm says, these are the "Rolls Royce" of hair scissors. For wire and tinsel I use finger nail clippers. BTW, I believe Chris Helm has the best seleciton of scissors available to fly tiers anywhere on the planet. What do you use and why?
  9. I have a LAW vise for rotary tying and a Dyna King Supreme Saltwater vise fitted with custom small jaws for tying trout flys. While I love my LAW, most of my tying is on the Dyna King. There is nothing like resting your left hand (for right-handed tiers) on the long shaft on the Dyna King Supreme Saltwater edition. I could tie on that sucker all day. Both are made with the highest quality materials and to exacting tolerances.
  10. Please post the photos. Thanks.
  11. Enjoy your day. Look forward to more great shots.
  12. Wulff: I love this photo. Going wide open to limit the DofF turned a shap-shot into a great photograph IMHO. I visited Fred Miranda's site. What a great resource of info. I read an interesting thread about the merits of the 85mmL f1.2 vs. the 85mm f1.8. For get the cost differential for a moment, there appears you would really need to be careful shooting with the 85mmL opened all the way to f1.2. Anything that is not perfectly perpendicular to the lens would be out of focus. I've definately got some serious hand-wringing to do on the 85mm. Thanks; Jeff
  13. Jay: As I noted in a seperate email; I really like these photos. Especially the subtle contrast of the colored harness with the grey/muted horses and background. Cool stuff. Jeff
  14. Thanks for all the feedback - great information. Let me give you a little more background about where I may be headed with the D5. My father is a retired pro. He specialized in portraits and weddings, with the occasional commercial assignment. For about a 10 years period he owned a Cessna 206 and did lots of aerial work. I worked for him for several years doing weddings and portraits. Back then, we were shooting with medium format Bronicas, Hasselblads, Mamiyas, etc. To help supplement my income, I am seriously considering getting back into the wedding/portrait game. I get a lot of requests from many of my Dad's old clients and could get working quickly. I also have some opportunities to shoot commercial work for developers of retail projects. For fun, I will likely continue my landscape work. It seems that the 5D's full frame and IQ would be most helpful for the type of work I'd primairly be pursuing. Since sports/action photography is not my thing, I don't get too worried about the speed of the 5D. With this additional information, do you still think the 5D would be a good weapon? Also, what single lens do you think would be most productive for my portrait/wedding gigs? Thanks again for your feedback.
  15. What type of "boxes" do you use to store your assortment of hooks. I'm especially interested in what is being used by folks that do demo tying at expos and enclaves. I've got an old Umpqua hook box that is on the large size, does not do a good job of keeping small hooks from migrating/mixing with other sizes, and is not very portable. Thanks; Jeff
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