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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by flyman

  1. Thanks for the information :thumbup:
  2. Thank you Fred and Devin.
  3. Does anyone have a list of the materials and a video or step by step tutorial for the gummy minnow. It looks like from what I have been able to find you simply make a couple layers with the foil product, then cover it with silly skin? It looks like several different ways and materials are being used in the different information I have been able to find.
  4. Thanks for all the thoughtful and informative answers.
  5. Thanks guys, I'm still digging around trying to read everything I can find on the subject.
  6. I am thinking about buying one of two Nikon macro lenses for macro fly photography. One is AF-S 105/2.8G VR and the other is a 60mm AF-S/2.8 VR. The 105mm is almost twice as much as the 60mm, is it really worth it? I had even thought about buying some other brands but they don't have the Vibration Resistance feature and since the lenses will probably also be used as a portraite lenses I think I would like to have the feature. Any ideas or suggestions?
  7. The Prince Nymph is the first one that came to mind when you said you would like to use the biots as wings. Here are a couple of good tutorials, one step by step photos and one video. http://www.flyguysoutfitting.com/bhprincesbs.html http://hk.youtube.com/watch?v=C9t_a2Z1dGA&...feature=related
  8. The shape is a little different form most midge larva. The larva is smaller at the head and larger towards the bottom. I tie the larva just about like the ones in the link Randy77 posted. I also tie a pupa/emerger version with flashabo wings and a clear glass bead. Both are good flies when trout are keying in on them on the SOHO, and they do particular in the winter and early spring
  9. Jack Garside has a nice article on the use of most feathers found on a Ringneck Pheasant skin. http://www.jackgartside.com/art_pheasant_feathers.htm
  10. It's a size 14 TMC 400T/swimming nymph. It's a light wire hook that comes shaped like that right out of the pack. After I place the hook in the vice I do "gently" push down at the eye to open the gap just a little bit. Some mfgs hooks can be bent quite a bit, Tiemco isn't one of them. The tempering is so hard that you can't bend them much without breaking.
  11. I guess about 30 years now. It's only been within the last 8-10 years that I've tyed on a regular basis. Before it was just a means to catch fish and not an activity within itself. The change in fly tying material and instruction over the last 8-10 years has been unbelievable. With all the step by step instruction on the web, books, viedo, and web sites like this Someone can become a very good tyer in a short period of time. When I started there were very few books, or flyfishing mags. Let alone videos/DVDs and the web.
  12. flyman


    Can't wait to send that to a couple of my "special" friends.
  13. OK the feathers have a new home! I'll let everyone know when I harvest a couple more. Thanks, Flyman
  14. I have maybe 30-35 of these B&W flank feathers. I don't use them in any of the trout patterns I tie. I'd be glad for someone to have them that could put them to use. Maybe the first 2 people that PM me I'll split them up and send them off. FREE!
  15. Trout-200-300 Saltwater-25-50 Bass & panfish-25-50 It's not that I carry that many patterns, I just have several of each pattern. Plus, when I'm trout fishing I often try to imitate the specific stage of an insect. When your are trying to imiatate the nymph, emerger, dun or larva, pupa, and adult of some species, it doesn't take many for the flies to add up.
  16. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by flyman: Inverted Yellow Drake
  17. Thanks for the tips. I've used nail polish for saltwater flies before, but the heads never looked like the flies I've seen here I do remember having a problem with the consistency of the nail polish. I tried to add nail polish remover, it turned the polish cloudy Can anyone tell me what I might be able to use to thin it? Or, would I be just defeating the purpose of using the polish?
  18. Great looking fly Charlie! Most of the flies I tie are trout flies. When I look at these type flies I always notice the heads? What type of cement/lacquer do most tyers use? The heads always look so neat and perfect.
  19. Great info on floss and it's application by everyone. I don't tie flies that require floss for the most part. A few classic wet flies and a pc of floss here and there on some trout patterns. But I just learned more about floss from reading this thread than I had in 25 years of tying. I had thought about using some silk floss for a few wet fly patterns that I tie. But after reading this, I think I'll just stick to the regular single or 4 strand rayon floss.
  20. I don't think you should choose a flyline based solely on the mfg of the line. The line wt # assigned to a fly line comes from the wt of the first 30 feet of that line. The AFTMA sets a standard for what the wt of that first 30 ft should be. But there can be a BIG difference in the actual wt of two lines of the same line wt #. Look at the wt standards and tolerances allowed within a given line wt. http://www.flyfishingforum.com/expertise/k...lineratings.htm Now add to that, there are no guidelines as to where along that 30' of line the wt is distributed. The placement of the wt along that first 30 ft of line is what gives us the different tapers. This article by Bruce Richards about WF vs DT lines is one of the best on the subject I've ever read. It changed the way I thought about the WF vs DT debate. http://www.flymartonline.com/article81.html I try to match my flyline to the action of given rod, and the type fishing situation I'll most likely be using it for. For me, faster rods perform better with a line towards the high end of the AFTMA standard. A slower or more progressive action type rod performs better with a lighter line. Not all 5wt rods are the same, so if you're using the same line on every one of them, you may not maximizing a rods performance.
  21. Thanks for the compliments. I was thinking the wings would make the fly float just in, or just under the surface film. It's a Oct caddis imitation. They leave their pupal shucks a couple days before they hatch.They are just floating and drifting around in the current. Making them easy prey for the trout. They are an important food source this time of year in the southeastern trout waters. I've had good luck with a simple version like this one in the past. I usually fish it as a dropper behind an adult imitation. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/watermark...SCF0370-med.JPG
  22. Have you ever seen the Pantone Color Chart System? I think it's kind of the standard for printing and art work, I don't let it drive me too crazy anyway. I think size and shape are more important in the construction of a fly than an exact color match The material is gonna change color when it gets wet anyway Here's the Pantone chart. http://www.demstore.com/scstore/DemStore/c...tone-chart.html
  23. Yakfisher, Looking good. I like both of DH's recommendations. Tie it sparse enough "you could read the news paper thru it" was what I once heard about this type fly. Also when you take the photo of the fly put something directly behind the fly. A pc of light blue or grey poster board would be great. Heck, an old towel or sheet will do. Try it, I think you'll be surprised how much better your fly will look
  24. Nothing wrong with any of the reels mentioned. I think the starting point for purchasing a new reel though is the weight of the reel. I like a reel that when it's loaded with backing and fly line will balance about where you place your middle finger on the rod grip. Thread the line through the guides and hold the rod with just your middle finger surrounding the grip. The farther away from that point the balance point is the more it will cause you to fatigue. Tip heavy rods (from too light a reel) put a lot of strain on the wrist and lower forearm. You're constantly trying to keep the rod-tip from dragging in the water. In my experience, butt heavy rods are also uncomfortable, but I seem to fatigue much more slowly with them. Rod length also has a lot to do with this. A 7 1/2' four-weight will require a significantly lighter reel than a 9' four weight. Even the best and most expensive reel can be the wrong one if it doesn't balance with the rod you're using.
  25. Thanks again everyone for the welcome. Irish, I haven't been over that way since the storms. But if it's like everywhere else I've been, it's a mess. We've lost a lot of trees and streamside vegetation. All the rocks and streambeds have been scoured clean. Most of the trees and logs that were down in the water are gone. Worst floods I can remember. It's going to take a couple years for many of the streams to recover from these events.
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