Jump to content
Fly Tying

Mad Scientist

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Mad Scientist

  • Rank
    Beginner

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.flytyersdungeon.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Western Montana
  1. Get some spray "Static Guard". Just "spit" a little in with the dubbing. Does the exact same as a dryer sheet, but much faster especially when your doing quite a bit of dubbing blending at one time. Mad Scientist
  2. Pat, Get some sewing, darning needles in various thicknesses, then secure the bottom end into a dowel rod for easy twisting/use. I use Clear silicone to dip the needle in then take dubbing, yarn, any body material and add to the base of the needle (or whatever length body to want) then twist the dowel rod/needle while guiding the dubbing up the needle. A light coat of silicone on the fly body may or may not be needed. Push off needle, put on papertowel and let dry. The silicone keeps the fly together, very durable body that can flex easily. Add tails before the body. You can make bodies as fast as 10 to 12 seconds. Hope this helps! Mad Scientist
  3. Charlie. Skeeter Fuzz - Ultra fine dry fly dubbing for smaller dry flies, from #14 to #30. Monster Dry - Larger fiber dry fly dubbing, #14 and up size dry flies, hoppers, big mayflies, stoneflies etc. Frawg - A finer diameter dry fly dubbing inbetween Skeeter Fuzz and Monser Dry. Small to large dry flies. #20 and up. Peacock - A peacock base dubbing for nymphs, use in place of peacock herl. Nymph sizes #14 and up. A coarser dubbing with many colors mixed in for a "Peacock" look. Great for bodies on Wooly Buggers, replaces chenille. Halo - a fine different type of antron or bright nylon dubbing. A silky feel & look for nymphs and wet flies giving the fly a "halo" effect with a sheen not a brilliance type look. Mix with other nymph dubbing. Hares Web - Classic rabbit with a touch of antron, nymphs and wet flies all sizes. Coarse and Wet - A very coarse dubbing for the larger nymphs, dragon flies, stoneflies and larger caddis...more "buggy" look. Antron - A fine trilobal dubbing for very flashy flies. Best used as an enhancer with other dubbings, mix with rabbit, Frawg etc. giving the dubbing a sparkle effect. My favorites: Frawg, Skeeter Fuzz and the Mr. Peacock dubbing. I hope this helps. Sincerely, Mad Scientist
  4. From deep in The Dungeon a very Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukah and Happy New Year from Igor, Fronk and myself, the Mad Scientist. May your thread never break, your dry flies float, streamers run true and the fish always bite. Good health and have a wonderful holiday season and may 2009 be the best ever! Sincerely, Mad Scientist
  5. From deep in The Dungeon a very Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukah and Happy New Year from Igor, Fronk and myself, the Mad Scientist. May your thread never break, your dry flies float, streamers run true and the fish always bite. Good health and have a wonderful holiday season and may 2009 be the best ever! Sincerely, Mad Scientist
  6. Thank you everyone for your kind words and I hope you enjoy the Christmas Boxes. I will make a few more up to fill out requests within this next week, then I most likely will be finished until Fall of 2009 (starting a little earlier in 2009). I will make a few extras, if anyone else is interested, then by mid-week I will remove the Christmas Box page until next year. I try to make a "Universal" box, something for everybody with good colors in the various materials. Again, thank you and enjoy! Happy Thanksgiving from deep in The Dungeon. Sincerely, Mad Scientist
  7. Yes, I am doing some marketing research. It's interesting, on a separate email question that I sent out, replies came in that about 67% use the holes and 33% don't. The after question comments are interesting as well. Honestly, I have never used a dubbing box and some insight would be very helpful as well as any comments. The majority of my tying friends, don't use boxes and if so, they open the lid....it's interesting! Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  8. I am interested in your input. Do you use a dubbing box? If so, do you use the holes in the bottom to get dubbing from the box or do you just open the lid and use the dubbing that way or both? Also, the reason why you do it the way you do? Thanks & I appreciate your input. Sincerely, Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  9. Thanks for your comments. I have addressed the shipping issue so everything will go out the first of November for all pre-orders, plenty of time for Christmas. All products will be labeled. Last year I lost over 20 Christmas Boxes in the mail and scrambled to fill them again before Christmas. I am limiting the number of these boxes at this price to 100 this year. Again thanks for your comments. I have also made FTD a full time endeavor, instead of a part time hobby business.
  10. I have odd lots of materials, test materials, old stock and experimental colors and products. I save these and give them away to groups. I am keeping a list of places that would like products for their flyfishing/tying clubs and from time to time, send a parcel to them. If interested, please let me know. Sincerely, Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  11. The easiest way to dye an olive color is to dye the feather a lemon yellow using yellow Rit. Then dip the feather in a black Rit bath(separate bath) and watch closely. This can make a beautiful olive. If you want a slight green, dip the feather then into a Kelly Green bath. One thing about Rit Dyes...the colors come and go...Gold is no longer available, a mixture of Golden Yellow and Tan can make Gold, Pink is gone, Avocado is gone, Charcoal Gray is Gone, Neon colors gone etc. Use any yellow dye and dye yellow and any black dye and dip in black..yellow and black make olive! Try this on a neck. Dye a neck deep lemon yellow and dip into black...you can get various shades of a beautiful olive. I make sure the black bath is not strong, so a little time is needed to get the color. Hope this helps! Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  12. I appreciate everyone who has supported FTD. At times my shipping time is slower than I wish and mainly it is due to two things; I am not in The Dungeon all the time as this is a "Fun" business at this point and secondly, since every product is our own line of goods, I have inventory gaps, meaning I have to Make, Dye, Dry and Package all items from the raw product. I blame everything on Igor! I am getting better this last month or so, and everyone who has ordered toward the latter part of this past week and weekend, your order/s have been sent or are going out via Priority Mail on Monday AM. If you have any questions, The Dungeon door is always open and feel absolutely free to email me at anytime or if you are in the neighborhood, feel free to stop by, there is always new materials lying around as we are always experimenting with new "Stuff". The Bubbling Cauldrons are bubbling, Dubbing Mixers are whirling and Wrapping Machines are churning. As for Igor and myself, well...two chickens, heads cut off, running around, typical Dungeon days. Thanks for everything! Sincerely, Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  13. Bleach some of it out and dye it up in various colors. Somewhat similar to Polar Bear after bleaching. Be careful with heat on the hair and on the hide if it has been tanned. Save the underfur when tying with the hair itself and use in blending with other materials. The easiest way to bleach is take some Lady Clairol blonde or similar and work it into the piece of hair as it only takes a short time to bleach out, pheasant skins, grizzly necks/saddles it works on many items. It's fun to play. Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  14. If you want black, there isn't any reason to bleach it out as any color/shade can be dyed to black. Bleaching it out defeats the purpose of getting the material dark, black. Rit dye will work, but an addition of Dark Brown will offset the purple hue that will appear and then it is still frustrating at times. A True Black is a hard "color" to achieve, that's why an acid base dye is preferred, one for protein fibers for hair and hackles. Most spinning and wool shops have various dyes that should work. Personally I use other dyes. Rit is a salt base dye and is made from 4 different dyes, which why it is pretty universal in dyeing many types of materials. You won't get bright and brilliant colors however with Rit, but they are readily available. Earthtone colors (Black is an exception) can be had using Rit. Even most dyes at spinning shops are not for dyeing Hot and brilliant colors. Dyeing materials is a lot of fun, frustrating at times, but it gives you the options of dyeing colors you want and in taking "Bad" colors and making them into something you need. It may be the only option you have if time is against you. For instance, you may want a brown Hoffman saddle and you find a beautiful cream saddle that has hackle in the exact sizes you want, but can not find a brown one. Take the cream one and dye it a beautiful "natural" brown or split it and dye 1/2 brown and 1/2 medium dun. Dyeing gives you options and it's fun. Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
  15. Rit Black is poor to fair at best when trying to achieve a true black. A dark purple shade or hue seems to be the outcome even after multiple dyeing attempts. Add some Dark Brown even some Dark Green to a Rit black bath and this at times will offset the purple. The best way is to use an acid base dye, many spinning/fabric shops usually have something like this available. If not, let me know as I use an excellent dye that penetrates protein materials and others into a deep true black quickly. Also try to dye materials from dark items, never use white (waste) if possible. I like to dye items either an orange or chartreuse color if I am using white or cream before dyeing it black. I get a real midnight black when doing this. Add a tablespoon of white vinegar or a few drops of glacial acetic acid into the bath for dye penetration. If the feathers are strung you can actually boil them in the dye bath making sure the feathers don't cling to the sides...this can be done with marabou as well for any color. I let the strung feathers boil for a few minutes, turn heat off and then cover and let sit for a while letting the feathers absorb the dye. Many times I let the bath sit overnight, if I am not in a hurry. If you have any questions, let me know and I hope this helps. Mad Scientist Fly Tyers Dungeon
×
×
  • Create New...