fishyfranky

I have this one hare's ear that I used a ton of wax on to dub and it made the body totally smooth. Worked good and its lasted a long time. Still have it in fact.

The yarn just came out this winter so I haven't had a chance to try it. I've used rayon chenille, vernille, chamois, acrylic yarn, etc. with guilty success. This is the best material I've seen. Everything is frozen over up here in the Great White North, but there's a trout pond I might hit if we get a warm spell. Those stocked fish don't stand a chance.

A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by fishyfranky: Earthworm

Kinda bright eh? I got the silver tinsel at Christmas time from the supermarket; a good sized bag of it for $2. The flash from the camera really brings out the holograms; in room light its still quite flashy. I figure I'd use it when I get an itch to toss a double bladed spinnerbait or johnson silver minnow but I only have my fly rod

I rarely dub, mostly hare's ears but when I do, I use a lump of bee's wax melted from a candle sheet. Thus I harbor a lurking suspicion that I'm scenting my flys

A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by fishyfranky: Tinsel Fish

I think the difference is there but outweighed by the sum of other factors. This leads to the different opinions and experiences. Catching fish, like many other things, is getting all the myriad details right to some degree. Flashy eyes (not painted), red gill marks, etc. may be all minor incremental improvements but add them all together and they do make a difference. Of course the fly itself is only part of the equation. I've only fly tied and fished for a year yet I caught plenty of fish. I think the 30+ years as a fisherman had something to do with it. The important thing is the mindset of keeping attention to details, i.e. fishy nature

Keeping the layers separate during the forward tie down can drive you batty. Use a piece of invisible tape to hold and separate the layers. The tape comes off easy from bucktail. The top and middle layers should be tied aboveish the shank and the bottom belowish. Split the middle layer in two and pull back on each along the side of the hook. I've used bucktail but I'm thinking krystal flash or other synthetics would be good. You're supposed to use epoxy on the head but Sally Hansen Hard as Nails works.

So I went today to get a Dynaking Barracuda Jr. as an upgrade from a $20 special. Unfortunately, the evil store manager showed me an Abel. Unbelievable piece of machinery, unbelievable drop in my bank account. Mind you I still bristle at the markup on chenille and I'll still buy from craft stores!!!

How about some Montana Stones! I got a couple in a fly swap last year and they proved dynamite on Lake Ontario steelhead. I have become very confident in this nymph, especially because it looks like a short tailed, hot spot woolly bugger

Count me in as a big time woolly bugger fan! So many creative options and such a fish catching pattern. I think it should have its own classification - wet - nymph - streamer - woolly bugger The difference between a Mickey Finn and a Black Nose Dace is trivial compared to the way two tyers make a 'black woolly bugger'.

Great flys Radoslav! I discovered the effectiveness of foam in immitating naturals when I hit puberty . Perhaps foam can be used to augment many existing patterns... hey I recently saw a foam post on a parachute pattern.

Oh, I never thought about the dries. But now that I think about it, I'm thinking on the lines of how the Klinkhammer is such a great pattern. All it took was a change in hook position/orientation.

I've been tying for a year and still some things are not quite clear: It seems to me that a fly tied to ride hook point up would be better because it would snag bottom less, be better positioned for a hook set, and the material in some patterns would hide the bite/point. So are most flys tied the way they are simply because its easier to tie and store them?

My bigger buggers (#8 and larger) are tied with longer tails than the 'standard':

I actually don't think soft plastics are the answer. Its not very durable and doesn't move right. A step in the wrong direction I think. If you watch baitfish, they have a lot of flash and their bodies are very flexible like a cloth. Something like a flexible weave of mylar tinsel than can 'breathe' like marabou in the water.

Nice ties! To get a wide abdomen, I've tied chenille on the sides of the shank. A little tricky but you get free gills in the process. I've also got a blended yarn with a ply of mohair that I use to build up bulk. Lastly, you can use felt cut to form.

Good tye! Da Silver Bullet!

Okay, I think this is what OSD is trying to imitate... with that pattern that is:

Dang, SH beat me to it. My pick would be: Flaming Butt Adams.

Shave 'im for dubbing. That's poetic justice.

QUOTE (steeldrifter @ Jan 14 2005, 12:28 AM) "Its like those people who believe Elvis is still alive."...... just what do you mean by that fishyfranky? Yikes I'm cornered, like the time at the airport when I was surrounded by the Hairless Krishnas. Well... casting upstream to rising trout with natural patterns on the fabled chalk streams of England sure sounds sublime and wherever Elvis may be, a part of him will live forever in the hearts of many

Nice article! Its like those people who believe Elvis is still alive. The best course of action is to smile and back away slowly. Do not under any circumstances engage them in conversation let alone debate!

With no wind I can cast about the same distance with a 5/7/8. But I can tell ya that after a day of surf bustin with an 8wt, it sure feels a lot different than a 5wt I hate tail winds because they collapse my back cast and I can never get any loading of the rod. Head winds are not so bad on the higher weights. I've cast into 50kim/h head winds once with some serious hauling, got 30 feet

I know a 15 year old who ties to order for individuals. He also carries a tackle wallet around while fishing and wears a big sign on his back: "Flys for Sale" He does okay.