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It's been a while since I've dropped in here. Here's my most effective Clouser Deep Minnow pattern: Streamer
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I'd do one of two things (or maybe both) Your zonker body has practically closed the hook gap, so hooksets are going to be difficult. So......... 1. Tie it on a hook with a wider gap, like a stinger hook 2. Tie it upside down, so it swims with the hook point up. Might need some weight on the shank as a keel, or some dumbell eyes tied Clouser Style. Regards, Streamer
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You can cut fiber hanks, rabbit fur, etc. with your scissors for small amounts for a few flies. If you need, say, a package of dubbing, buy a small hand-held coffee grinder. The blade/motor is activated when you press down on the lid. That way you can "pulse" the chopping until you get the texture/consistency that you want. Here's a link to a good one that is also reasonably priced: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SPEU/?tag=apartmentth0a-20 Regards, Streamer
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Trying to recall this glue light thing.... need your help!
streamer replied to FishyboY's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
This may be what you're talking about: http://www.clearcuregoo.com/ If it isn't, you should check it out anyway. I saw a cool demo in Charlotte at the FF'ing Show. Regards, Streamer -
Experimental tying vs standard patterns
streamer replied to navigator37's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
When I first learned to tie, I could employ a few basic techniques for a few simple ties, but I wanted L. da Vinci/Bob Clouser/Lee Wulff creations to leap from my vise. Truth be told, I didn't have the necessary discipline to really learn a pattern or technique properly; that is, by tying a few dozen flies, paying attention to detail and proportion, etc.. So I spent alot of time churning out chunky unfishable flies, and even I knew that I wasn't a very good tyer. After years of tying thousands of flies, I can now enjoy both aspects that you mentioned. I can fill my fly boxes with reliable flies that I know I'll fish, and I also enjoy forays into the world of "What if ....?". But even my creative efforts are guided by the footprints left by the tyers who taught me at their vise. Yer Pal, Streamer -
Loon Hard Head. No mixing. Coat 1 fly or 100. About $7.00 at fly shops. Can be thinned as necessary over time. I don't use epoxy anymore. This stuff is great. Regards, Streamer
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Affixing eyes - how do you do it properly?
streamer replied to getholdofjoru's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
I don't use any CA type glues for eyes on streamers. The best I've found is "Goop". Affix the eyes, let them dry, and then if you want to overcoat them for protection, put on a coat of Loon Hard Head. It's sorta like epoxy right out of the jar. Dries clear and it's very hard. Easy applications. Regards, Streamer -
Huh?? Aww isn't deer belly hair stiff, stiffer then deer hair body? The little bit I have is as stiff as a rock. The best 2 substitutes for polar bear is skunk tail and Hareline's polar fibers. I was simply pointing out substitutes that I have seen published over the decades. However, the little belly hair I have is quite supple and it is long enough for large flies. Personally, I don't like skunk tail or body hair as a substitute for polar bear because the white hair on a skunk is opaque like deer belly. Cashmere goat, Arctic runner are superior because they are translucent like polar bear. I do however, find the black skunk hair on both the tail and the body to be superb wing material for steelhead wet flies that have an opaque black wing because it is very supple and moves well in the water. Other suitable synthetic fibers I have used include Salmo Web, EP fibers, and hank SLF, all of which come in a polar bear "color". Good quality deer belly hair is fairly supple. I like Bruce's suggestion of cashmere goat, EP Fibers, and the SLF hanks. I'd add that Steve Farrar's Flash Blend works pretty well as a PB substitute, as does Yak hair ( although that does have some crinkle to it.) I have a small patch of Polar Bear (3"x3") that I've snipped a few hairs from, but I am very prudent with it. It does have a translucence that nothing else can equal. Merry Christmas, y'all! Yer Pal, Streamer
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I got an e-mail from the Mad Scientist last Thursday saying that my Christmas Boxes (2) were shipped via USPS that day. I got them on Saturday, one for me and one for my 15 y.o. son. I am truly impressed with the value of this purchase. It's a box FULL of material, but unlike some "grab bag" deals out there, this box is full of USEABLE materials. I'll do it again next year for sure. Except......maybe I'll get just the 1 box next time! Thanks to the Mad Scientist! Yer Pal, Streamer
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I couldn't pass up the Christmas Box. In fact, I just ordered two; one for me and one for my 15 year old son, who is now tying rings around me and my vise. I e-mailed a question and received a prompt response assuring me that they'd be sent in time for Christmas. Regards, Streamer
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This one: And this one:
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Mine was an Adams that looked like the illegitimate offspring resulting from a rendezvous between a chicken on acid and a blind moose. It was the size of a sparrow. Streamer
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Here's one you can build yourself........25 Bucks! http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/toolchest.php Regards, Streamer1212
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If you are having difficulties finding the colors you want, you can always dye them yourself. You can use Veniard dyes, or Rit dyes, or even Kool-Aid to get the colors right. Experiment. Have fun. Regards, Streamer
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I like the idea. If it won't sink for you, try tying the collar from a large bundle of bucktail which flares very well. Then substitute a wool head in lieu of the spun deer hair. That oughta sink it. In fact, it will probably attain something close to neutral buoyancy so you cpould sink it to the strike zone depth and keep it there for a good long while. Obviously a sink tip or full sinker would get it down faster, but dang....I hate casting those rigs :wallbash: Regards, Streamer