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Fly Tying

Paul vd Driesche

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Everything posted by Paul vd Driesche

  1. Hi Joaquin, These wings are imposible to create. If you made these I'm seriously impressed and you abviously discovered a secret we don't know about. Would you mind sharing how you did such a complicated vain pattern? Or the coloring on the vains without staining the rest of the surfice of the wing? The best of the realistic tyers I know about have not been able to get dragonfly wings this detailed so if you really maneged to get them this good youre the man!!! Greets Paul
  2. Hi Sergio, Nice job. There is a simple thing you can do to make it even better though..... Try sanding down a piece of mono to a nice taper to use for tails and feelers. These blunt ends are sort of ruining the look if you ask me. The bended shape in the fly and the head are awesome. Greets Paul
  3. Hehe.....that goes with the territory Don't squeeze your tweezers when you heat them....make sure you heat the inside of the tips (and not to much obviously). If you heat them while the tips are pressed together you can grab you material and nothing happenes.....untill you turn the tweezers to make the kink....than the (hotter) outside of the tweezers will melt through the material......but I guess you found that out by yourself now This experience will make sure this will not happen anymore when you start working on more time consuming bugs. Greets Paul
  4. Use a pair of tweezers that you heat a bit with a lighter. Depending on the chozen material more or less heat will do the trick. Heated tweezers, grap the material on the desired spot and twist about a 120 degrees....this will give you a nice joint/legbend, knee...whatever. Greets Paul
  5. I do think you are heading down the right path. I use thread for all my vainingwork The problem with thread is that it has no taper. Unless you you more than one strand. On my stone flies I use pieces made out of 2,3 and 4 strands. That way you decide what thickness is good for big vains like on the base of the wing or thinner ones on the tips. and you can create vains that start with 4 strands and end with just one so you can create a taper. I don't agree with Johan though. For me there is no such thing as "it takes to much time". Thinking this way will show in the details of you work. Johan is a friend of mine and we talk a lot about how far you can or want to take it. The wings like he made are not good enough for me but since I don't have a better way yet my dragon flies will have to wait. And honestly...his dragon fly looks good...no doubt about that...it's just that it's basicly only a 50% finished wing...... But most people on shows love it so..... And to answer your question about what he used as a base? It's a transparent sheet like they use on overhead projectors. He is my suplier too Greets Paul
  6. Hehe....the wings are the most delicate, frustrating and time consuming part of the work. On top of that you are working on wings that kept me away from the dragon flies. Like you I don't like wings with just the long vains or scratched wings (although some do a nice job that way) or even worse printed wings. The pattern and thickness (more like thinness) of the vains is close to impossible to copy. Where mayflies and stoneflies have more or less square shaped patterns the dragonfly has pentagon shaped patterns. Ofcourse it can be done and one day I will give it a go but I think it will take dozens of hours for just a single wing. The results will be stunning....no doubt but The frustration will be at least just as impressive...but someday....... I don't think it's wise to calculate in hours though. It's done when it's done. Do a complicated project like that in steps. Do a part of the wing and when you get frustrated do another fly....then another part of a wing....and another fly and so on and so on.... Good luck Paul
  7. Promarkers work well for me. Don't forget to get the blender.....you can add color and tkae away bits you don't want or shade from dark to light with them. You can get them in every color you will ever need. Additional plus...they have 2 tips, one fine and a broad one. Greets Paul
  8. Reading your story and checking the actual shrimps on google I would go for foam for the shell and biggest claw or maybe even both claws. Most of the legs would be rubberlegs in a tan color. Feelers can be made from mono, quills or a couple of strands of flash. The foam can be colored to your liking and will balance out the sinkrate of the jhook and the rest of the materials. You can also try deer hair instead of foam. Deer hair will not float as much as foam so that way you can decide on how much you would like the fly to sink. Since you talk about "when drifted static in the current" I guess you don't want it to heavy. Just my thoughts when I read your story Greets Paul
  9. Hi Sergio, I do like it. It's hard to tell from a picture as always but it looks very good. Greets Paul
  10. I do like it. You have a lot of good things going on in this fly. One thing I think you should try with the next one though. The varnish you use for a finish should not be so glossy. Most insects don't have such a glossy shine to them. Be carefull not to make them all matt either, that will make them look plasticish....not good. I use a matt varnish and add a little bit of marker to the fly when the varnish is dry. That bit of marken is just enough to make it neither matt/dull or shiny. Give it a try and see if you like it. Greets Paul
  11. Your proportions are awesome...very well done. Greets Paul
  12. Well you seem to do just fine without the tripod Bruce...Great pics. I will gladly save them to use somewhere in the future. Greets Paul
  13. Good luck Mike. We will be waiting for you here
  14. Beetle looks good Mike. I will try a beetle soon but I'm not sure on which one it's going to be.....spread wings....that's the only thing I'm sure of so far Greets Paul
  15. Hey Andres, So you are a true artisan now? That's a nice title....well done. And well deserved too The site looks good. I'm glad you added a english view aswell. Greets Paul
  16. Geinig...heb je wel ff de weerhaak plat geknepen voor je hem gaf?
  17. I was there on the Flyfair (looking at your left shoulder sitting next to Johan)....talked to Johan about it and we agreed that it was good stuff. I might even switch to it when I run into it again Greets Paul
  18. Is there any difference with the Loon stuff like Knot sense or wader repair which has been around for years using the same uv to cure? Greets Paul
  19. That's a nice present in anyone's book. Love it. Greets Paul
  20. The eye was removed in this case. Somethimes it's cut off in other cases the head will be formed around it....depends on the pattern. The (extreme/ultra/hyper whatever you wanna call it) realistic stuff will never see any water. It's flytying for the fun of flytying. I do need the hook to hold everything and to hold in the vice. Depending on what you want with the end result sometimes the bend and poit of the hook will be removed as well. In my work the will stay intact. Greets Paul
  21. Around his neck ofcourse......what else? Greets Paul
  22. Henry, Thnx so much for your compliment on my fly...it's much apreciated. Yes it does take a lot of time but who cares? I love every minute of it. The thing is that it only gets worse. Every time a fly is finished I'll start thinking about what to do next and every new fly will be a little better than the previous one....more details, better colors so more hours spent. Fred should just leave the black/white thinking for what it is. Help someone if they want to and do whatever you like. The fact that Realistic flytying has no rules is just the thing I like best about it. Every other form of flytying will tell you how long and where tails and hackles should be, nobody will tell you how to tie a praying mantis.....you just figure out how...if you are nuts enough to even wanna do that ofcourse .....I know I am. Next will be a flying version of a hopper....more workk...looking forward to it Greets Paul
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