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Fly Tying

dafunk5446

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Everything posted by dafunk5446

  1. Here is a fly I have been having good luck with lately. It is essentially a smaller version of a pike flash fly. Bass have been loving it however. Normally they are tied with a dubbing loop, however I find it to be annoying to deal with flash in a loop, and came up with this method to put the fly together. Hope you enjoy. Austin Step 1. Put hook in vise and work thread back to point of hook. Step 2. Cut 15 or so strands of your base flash color from the hank. Fold it over itself, cut the bundle in half. Pull a taper into the strands. (Black holo used here) Step 3. Tie in, on top of the shank, a little past the half way point to build a taper to the tail. Wrap forward about 5 or so wraps. Then back to the tie in point. (you can add bucktail above and below the tail to help prevent fouling if you find the need to do so.) Step 4. Select 4-6 strands of accent color (Red holo in this case, this color combo is my favorite, and best producing.) and repeat step 2. Tie in a fraction longer then the black to add taper. Wrap forward 5 wraps. Step 5. Pull the forward facing strands backwards, and tie down. Work your thread to about the 1/4 shank mark Step 6. Repeat step 2, however after you cut it, fold it again, cut, then pull a taper into it. Step 7. Use the front strands of the tail to judge tie in point to taper the fly. Tie in with 5 or so wraps forward. Ensure the flash encompases the hook shank. Pull forward facing strands back and tie down. Advance thread to half way point. Step 8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7. Continue to build taper into the fly. Step 9. Repeat step 4 with accent color. Tie on top of the shank as an overwing only. Tie in the bundle with the backwards facing strands between the tail strands. Fold back and tie down forward facing strands. Advance thread to 3/4s point. Step 10. Repeat step 6 and 7. Contine to build taper into the fly. Advance thread to hook eye Step 11. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Watching the taper of course. Fold forward facing strands backwards, and start building the head a small amount. Then repeat step 9, using your last over wing as the judge for tie in point. Fold back, form a nice head. Finish as you wish. The finished fly. Hope it works as well for you as it has for me.
  2. Fantastic fly, I rarely fish topwater stuff, but I will make sure to give this one a try.
  3. I started tying three years ago, and I have my first fly in a box somewhere...trust me you dont want to see it. I had no idea what I was doing, I used sewing thread...and literally knotted it to the hook to start the thread. You can image what it was like after that. Ha! Here is a fly I did a little while after I started. I stopped tying classic wets for a year, then started on classic salmon flies, and have been at it for almost a year now. Here is a recent one. I also made the hook that was used on that one. So it goes to show with a little discipline...and a lot of wasted material you can learn a lot! I do NOT encourage tiers to jump into classics like I did. I am OCD and love spending money haha. For young tiers focus on fishing and tying fishing flies. Learning the basics is invaluable, and FISHING is more important when your young/beginning.
  4. Thanks for the comments guys. Red, Yellow, and Black are some of my favorite colors for bass. The orange and claret just kick it up a notch! haha, I will make sure to post some pics of the monsters I (hopefully) catch with it!
  5. Heading to the bass ponds in couple weekends, right after I graduate college! So I thought I would try some MOM flies. Here is a Thistle variant I whipped up. Might have potential.
  6. By any fly will work, I meant within reason. I wasnt meaning 13 inch pike flies Just like trout, flies that represent local food will generally work best. I fish for carp a lot, while I may be blessed with stupid carp, rarely have they turned a nose at a pattern. Again I feel, like trout, it is more about presentation then pattern. Confidence in your flies, and more so in your fishing ability have more to do with it then anything. If you get it too them without spooking them you shouldnt have a problem. We all are going to have different opinions on what will work, what wont. There is no right or wrong answer. If your hooking fish and having fun doing it thats what matters. If you wanna be particular about what size, shape, color, species your fly is imitating that fine, if you wanna tie on the first thing you grab out of your box without looking that will probably work too.
  7. I really think we need to make a pinned topic for this subject. Every single year there is a few posts asking what flies, what rod, what reel.... I am not trying to harp on you Skeet, it would just help everyone if this was done. As for flies....just about anything will work. Topwater- Mulberries , CDC cottonwood seeds (if either are in your area). subsurface- depends where they are feeding, but almost any fly works. Carp will take nymphs, leeches, baitfish, crawdads...you name it. If they are tailing use flies that are weighted to ride hook point up...which is 90% of the flies you will use. As always check the database for patterns.
  8. got to disagree on that one- whip finish should always try to go back to front. If you go front to back, the knot forms with a single thread perpendicular to the wraps sitting OVER the wraps which is a serious weak point and can look bad. If done back to front, the perpendicular thread is UNDER the wraps, invisible and strong. You should not ever have to try to correct a weird looking head with your final finish knot. Later tonight if I have time I will try to take a few pics to show what I mean. Considering most people use head cement, why would that matter? I dont use head cement and have never had a head fail, mind you I typically do put another whip finish forward as you said. I didnt say anything about "fixing" a weird head with a whip finish. I was talking about wrapping over small stray fibers with a whip...which again isnt really a problem since most people glue their fly up anyway, or if you just do a double whip. I dont worry about heads looking that great on fishing flies, as long as they are proportional. I stopping worrying when I stopped trying to catch fishermen with fishing flies....thats what my salmon flies are for. Most of the vintage flies I have seen have heads that would be considered horrible by today's standards, but I am sure they caught fish...and they do. I maybe biased since I dont try to make indestructible flies. After a fly has hooked a few fish I retire it, which is long before it would start falling apart.
  9. Yup that would be my suggestion as well. Your proportions on your flies should factor this in. Also start your whip finish from the front of the eye, with flat thread, and wrap back with edge to edge wraps. If you have butts of materials near the eye, angle your whip finish so the first wraps of thread approach under the materials and parallel to the shank, so that you push them back as you build your head.
  10. I agree this thread should not die Findhorn #4
  11. I dont use dubbing brushes all that often, but I do use them for leaches. The best in my opinion is Arctic Fox tail in two colors one being dominate, and the other offering contrast. Color combos that work great for bass, trout, and pike have been: Black/red, dark olive/golden olive, Yellow/red, red/yellow. (all white for smallies) Throw a few strands of flash here and there in the mix and your good to go. Try throwing dyed Amherst tail fibers in there for some intruder looking leeches. For me dubbing brushes only offer significant benefits if you spinning long fiber material, stuff that is a pain to do in a dubbing loop/split thread. I just use regualar techniques for dubbing and other things like peacock herl. However, Utyer does have a great idea with throw "junk" in there to make cases. Also Agn54's comment of using congo hair is a great idea, could make some real quick 3d bait fishes that way.
  12. hmmm....not sure. I like the idea and concept behind it, just not sure it would provide any true benefit. I would have to try one. The first thing that pops in my head is that it looks like there are too many points of friction. The thread being in contact with the cross bar, and the extreme angle the thread enters the tube concern me. I could see 14/0 thread getting destroyed in that, pressure and angles on thread = problems. Although with heavy thread it wouldnt be a problem.
  13. Yeah the vacuum idea is simply brilliant, I will definitely be incorporating that into my setup. You have some great ideas! Austin
  14. Wow! Great fly, really like that one.
  15. First fly I tied on a hook I made myself. Used a Mustad 3399 2/0 that I reworked, and refinished.
  16. Great fly! We have an odd, highly location specific hatch of a very large PMD on the Big Thompson that this fly does a perfect job of imitating.
  17. Well burnt hackles have been treated in bleach usually to break down the Barbules that hold the feather together. This results in a wispy-er feather that some feel looks better. Ordinary would be just that, regular feathers. Which would/could included schlappen, heron, blue eared pheasant, and coque, rhea, marabou, and ringneck pheasant rump. All of those can also be treated with bleached to create finer hackles.
  18. All time favorite bass fly is a bunny leach (spin the body fur in a dubbing loop to decrease weight. Crayfish, bucktail streamers, zonkers, and big sparrows also work really well.
  19. Here is the Naughty Bedroom, a dumbed down easier version of a Sex Dungeon. Since it doesnt have as much going on, I gave it a nicer name, haha. I really dont like articulated flies, mostly cause they take forever, and two hooks scare me. This variation drops the articulated section, and is tied upside down (not sure why the original isnt tied that way), and the rabbit strip is pierced with the hook to help limit fouling. Otherwise its the same construction. This is my everything fly, I use it for trout, bass, carp, and pike. Please excuse the shite trim job, I tied a dozen and they were fishing flies so I wasn't going for show quality.
  20. yeah I prefer hard as hull, cause its a little thicker and stronger then most other head cements.
  21. I'm sorry I got ahead of myself, it should have read they can be converted into a spent configuration.
  22. Sorry for the repost of the fly, after second thought I figured it should be in the database. Also here is another reason I like this fly. There is a specific reason I tie these with the traditional wing/hackle configuration as opposed to the parachute version. For those of you who dont know this you can easily turn these flies into spinners.
  23. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by dafunk5446: FBA (Feather Butt Adams)
  24. dafunk5446

    FBA

    Here is a fly that I have been using the past season with great success. Hope you all like it. Austin
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