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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by neoFLYte

  1. I think 6-12 is appropriate for bluegill.
  2. A clean tying area. I think mine was like that the day I got my first vise. :rockon:
  3. Despite the focus problem, I think #3, #4, and #5 would be good panfish/bass flies. :thumbsup:
  4. A macro setting is helpful. If your camera doesn't have a macro setting, but has a bunch of megapixels, it might be possible to shoot your flies at a little distance and then crop your pics with some kind of photo editing software without too much loss in resolution. One other thing that can help a lot is a tripod. Holding any camera still with your hands is difficult - especially when your subject is very small and/or you are using your macro setting. I happen to have a full-sized tripod from back in the day when I did a lot of 35mm film photography. My little Canon PowerShot looks pretty silly on that tripod. They make little desktop tripods that would work as well, if not better. If you really get into photographing flies, you might want to consider some specialized equipment. Somewhere I've seen a setup that is largely homemade, but a camera with a macro setting (or one that will accept true macro lenses) and that will accomodate a remote flash pretty much necessary for that kind of set-up.
  5. I completely agree. Not leaving enough room behind the eye was one thing that messed me up many times when I first started tying. I think your flies are plenty good.
  6. Ehh... it don't work that way. I spent the first 15 years of my adult life doing physiology research. There is a physiological principle among chordates - creatures with a spinal cord, which includes vertebrates (creatures with a vertebral column/backbone) - called bilateral symmetry. The very best you could hope for - although incredibly unlikely - would be a mix of cock feathers and hen feathers on the saddle/cape/etc. on the "half-and-half" chicken. Much more likely, you would find the whole bird covered with "not-quite male" and "not quite female" feather structures. Not to say that the resultant saddle and cape feathers would not be useful... or maybe even fantastic for tying. But the idea of "left side male" and "right side female", or even "front half female" and "back half male" just ain't gonna happen - at least within the known spectrum of genetic expression.
  7. I think a true rotary vise - where the shank of the hook remains horizontal as you rotate the vise - makes it easier to check flies for balance/symmetry. I also use the rotary function to wrap hackle. Does one HAVE to have a rotary vise? No. But they do offer some conveniences.
  8. All good suggestions so far. I would suggest though, especially with vises, in terms of expense there is a point where you stop paying for additional functionality and start paying for trademark and "bling". Not that there is anything wrong with either, if that's your thing. :headbang: The guy who got me into tying (via Internet videos) was David Cammiss (http://learnflytying.co.uk/category/beginners-lessons). Mr. Cammiss' videos are easy to follow and his flies are pretty much the same flies you might tie during formal lessons. The only thing about Mr. Cammiss' method that I never quite got the hang of is his hand-finishing method. I bought a Matarelli-style whip finisher, which baffled me at first - it's now second nature. There are many online tyers whose flies are more fussy, but I think Camiss' style is excellent for someone just getting into the hobby/art.
  9. I use this stuff - http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/T...-Free-Wire.html. It is not springy, brittle, or whatever else. I use it in sizes 0.015, 0.025, and 0.035.
  10. I've been playing with weaves for awhile now. Interesting stuff. I've tied up a few flies that look really good, but haven't had a chance to try them yet.
  11. If grackle feathers were popular, I could retire by the time summer begins. Dang noisy, nasty things!
  12. As mentioned earlier... "THE FLY TIERS BENCHSIDE REFERENCE to Techniques and Dressing Styles" by Ted Leeson and Jim Schollmeyer is the best thing I've seen so far. It's pricey, but LOADED with techniques. Between the "Benchside Reference" and all of the tying videos on the 'Net, with a little practice and a new gadget from time to time, one could tie just about anything that exists and a lot of things that are waiting to be "invented".
  13. Excellent work, everyone! Very inspiring. :headbang:
  14. I am anxious for warmer weather when we will clean up our horses. I've been eyeing manes and tails (keep it clean, folks) and maybe even curry trappings since the fall of last year. Seems to me a little experimenting would be fun and maybe even productive! My sister runs an Equine Assisted Therapy facility for psychological support of youngsters. I might whip up some horsehair flies from the "therapy horses" and make a shadowbox for the kids to look at. Come to think of it, I could even do some fly tying classes for her kids. Hmmm.
  15. From looking at several pics, I agree with Flyfish Dog as far as stacked/spun wool being an alternative material to the felt. I think I'll put the Salamder in my list of things to tie. :thumbsup:
  16. I like those flies! They have a cool "rustic" look to them. I'll bet the fish like them, too. :thumbsup:
  17. I agree completely with your review, point by point. Been there, done that. I recently replaced my Peak Rotary with a Griffin Mongoose. I now tie on a hybrid setup, with the Peak pedestal, Peak brass extension, and Mongoose vise. I had to fiddle with the Mongoose to make the rotary action as nice as the Peak was. So... for what I have spent on the two vises, I could have easily picked up one of the Renzettis that are so popular. Live and learn!
  18. For pretty dang good scissors, I recommend Dr. Slick (as with most of the replies). To plug our sponsor here... http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/O...pose-Scissors-4 http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/O...w-Scissors-3-12 http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/O...w-Scissors-3-12 Dr. Slick is widely available, so you can do the touch test in many fly shops. I would also recommend a pair of cheap scissors for cutting tough stuff like lead/tungsten (weight) wire, monofilament, ribbing wire and hair from hides. The biggest thing with decent scissors is to avoid using the tips of the scissors for anything but the finest snips.
  19. Agree 100%. Even if you use telephone cable on a size 20 hook and you don't catch anything, at least you were fortunate enough to go fishin'!
  20. Granted, UV is supposed to be beyond the ability of human sight. But when I think of UV light, I think of that fluorescent tube stuff from the '60s and '70s and the associated posters, skin paint, etc. The Tuffleye "flashlight" doesn't have that weird "glow" to it... although the wavelengths emitted by the Tuffleye product may be considerably refined as compared to the "psychedelic" days. Did you ever think you'd see the word "psychedelic" in a fly-tying forum? LOL!
  21. I buy most of my stuff from J. Stockard, but I have received stuff from most of the usual online suspects. I have also bought stuff from a local shop and a nearby Cabela's . I keep my stuff in three sealed plastic containers, each about the size of two shoe boxes. I keep artificial materials in one, feathers in another, and fur in the third. All of my stuff lives in my house, so maybe 50 degrees F minimum and 85 degrees F maximum. None of my stuff is exposed to direct sunlight. To date, I have not microwaved/frozen/boiled/mothballed/whatever anything, and have not noticed any emerging aliens. If I gather some materials "from the wild", I will think more about sterilization measures.
  22. Tuffleye sells a flashlight that is blue and produces a very bright blue light. http://www.wetahook.com I would classify Tuffleye as a sealant more than an adhesive. I have the kit. Occasionally I drag the stuff out and tie something with it. I've managed to create some cool looking hardheaded flies. I strongly recommend a rotary vise if you plan to use the Tuffleye product. The blue light makes it harden fairly quickly, but not quickly enough that you wont have a "belly" of stuff on the lower side if you don't turn it while the gel is curing. I haven't tied with true epoxy yet, so I can't comment whether the Tuffleye product is any better or worse than epoxy. I am pretty sure Tuffleye is more expensive than epoxy.
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