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Fly Tying


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Posts posted by neoFLYte

  1. I've always used no smaller than a size 12 hook for bluegill, and frequently I throw a sz 10 - never a sz 8 though. Some people are of the opinion that the smaller hooks (16-14) will be more likely to hook the fish in the lip rather than being inhaled like a sz 10 would.


    I haven't fished a true barbless hook, but with a barbed hook with the barb mashed down, I've noticed no difference in hook up rates compared to a barbless. What's your opinion on barbed vs barbless?


    I'm wondering now if I should add some sz 14... and possibly 16 patterns to my box. What do you think?


    I think 6-12 is appropriate for bluegill.


  2. Went looking for the "show us your bench" thread and can't find it. (So if someone needs to move this post there that would be great. Thank you!)


    I finally took a couple of pix of my little corner. My Bill (:wub: who I admit spoils me) made the bench with the return (for tools), the shelf and the spool holder. The raised stand in the center of the desk held my old c-clamp vise.


    All my goods are stored in two old style suitcases.


    A clean tying area. I think mine was like that the day I got my first vise. :rockon:


  3. Here are a few of my first flies, let me know what i have done right as well as done wrong. I apologize for the pictures they are the best i could get with my current camera



    Despite the focus problem, I think #3, #4, and #5 would be good panfish/bass flies. :thumbsup:

  4. I have a few flies that i would like to photograph them to post here for critique, but my camera that i currently have will not focus on them because of their tiny size. what all do you guys use to photograph you flies.





    A macro setting is helpful. If your camera doesn't have a macro setting, but has a bunch of megapixels, it might be possible to shoot your flies at a little distance and then crop your pics with some kind of photo editing software without too much loss in resolution. One other thing that can help a lot is a tripod. Holding any camera still with your hands is difficult - especially when your subject is very small and/or you are using your macro setting. I happen to have a full-sized tripod from back in the day when I did a lot of 35mm film photography. My little Canon PowerShot looks pretty silly on that tripod. They make little desktop tripods that would work as well, if not better. If you really get into photographing flies, you might want to consider some specialized equipment. Somewhere I've seen a setup that is largely homemade, but a camera with a macro setting (or one that will accept true macro lenses) and that will accomodate a remote flash pretty much necessary for that kind of set-up.


  5. ...one thing I noticed is that you're leaving plenty of room by the eye, and that is usually the bane of most rookie tiers.


    I completely agree. Not leaving enough room behind the eye was one thing that messed me up many times when I first started tying. I think your flies are plenty good.

  6. Instead they are inherently male or female, and remain so even if they end up mixed together in the same chicken.

    It means a half-and-half chicken will have totally different plumage, body shape, and muscle structure on the two halves of its body.


    Ehh... it don't work that way. I spent the first 15 years of my adult life doing physiology research. There is a physiological principle among chordates - creatures with a spinal cord, which includes vertebrates (creatures with a vertebral column/backbone) - called bilateral symmetry. The very best you could hope for - although incredibly unlikely - would be a mix of cock feathers and hen feathers on the saddle/cape/etc. on the "half-and-half" chicken. Much more likely, you would find the whole bird covered with "not-quite male" and "not quite female" feather structures. Not to say that the resultant saddle and cape feathers would not be useful... or maybe even fantastic for tying. But the idea of "left side male" and "right side female", or even "front half female" and "back half male" just ain't gonna happen - at least within the known spectrum of genetic expression.


  7. Hello to all, I recently began to both fly fish and tie my own flies. I have been an avid fisherman all my life and wanted to try something new.


    So what are some of the basic does/dont's of this new hobby i decided to pick up


    All good suggestions so far. I would suggest though, especially with vises, in terms of expense there is a point where you stop paying for additional functionality and start paying for trademark and "bling". Not that there is anything wrong with either, if that's your thing. :headbang:


    The guy who got me into tying (via Internet videos) was David Cammiss (http://learnflytying.co.uk/category/beginners-lessons). Mr. Cammiss' videos are easy to follow and his flies are pretty much the same flies you might tie during formal lessons. The only thing about Mr. Cammiss' method that I never quite got the hang of is his hand-finishing method. I bought a Matarelli-style whip finisher, which baffled me at first - it's now second nature. There are many online tyers whose flies are more fussy, but I think Camiss' style is excellent for someone just getting into the hobby/art.


  8. As mentioned earlier... "THE FLY TIERS BENCHSIDE REFERENCE to Techniques and Dressing Styles" by Ted Leeson and Jim Schollmeyer is the best thing I've seen so far. It's pricey, but LOADED with techniques. Between the "Benchside Reference" and all of the tying videos on the 'Net, with a little practice and a new gadget from time to time, one could tie just about anything that exists and a lot of things that are waiting to be "invented".


  9. I am anxious for warmer weather when we will clean up our horses. I've been eyeing manes and tails (keep it clean, folks) and maybe even curry trappings since the fall of last year. Seems to me a little experimenting would be fun and maybe even productive! My sister runs an Equine Assisted Therapy facility for psychological support of youngsters. I might whip up some horsehair flies from the "therapy horses" and make a shadowbox for the kids to look at. Come to think of it, I could even do some fly tying classes for her kids. Hmmm. B)


  10. Since I have been tying less that one year I don’t have much experience with other vises. So this post is nothing more than my comments on the vise, and hopefully it will benefit other beginners researching their first good vice.


    About five months ago I traded up from my “fly tying kit” vise to a Peak rotary vise. Before purchasing I did quite a bit of online research and, based on reviews and price, I purchased the Peak. The quality of the vise is excellent and it will be around for a long time.


    The vise was shorter than what I was use to and after tying for a while I decided that I prefer a taller vise, so I purchased the riser extension. Again, a very well made solid piece. After a few more month of tying my skill set improved and I started going from size 12 hooks to 14, 16 and 18. With these smaller hooks the standard vise jaws were starting to get in the way by blocking too much of the hook. This was easily solved by purchasing the midge jaws which work great.


    While I really like the quality of the Peak vise if I had known how much extra money I would spend to adapt it to my needs I probably would have initially spent more money and bought a taller vice with smaller jaws. However, now that I have my investment I’m not about to switch.


    - Charlie


    I agree completely with your review, point by point. Been there, done that. I recently replaced my Peak Rotary with a Griffin Mongoose. I now tie on a hybrid setup, with the Peak pedestal, Peak brass extension, and Mongoose vise. I had to fiddle with the Mongoose to make the rotary action as nice as the Peak was. So... for what I have spent on the two vises, I could have easily picked up one of the Renzettis that are so popular. Live and learn!


  11. My question is, how many and what type of scissors do I need to purchase??

    Thanks for your help.


    For pretty dang good scissors, I recommend Dr. Slick (as with most of the replies). To plug our sponsor here...




    Dr. Slick is widely available, so you can do the touch test in many fly shops.


    I would also recommend a pair of cheap scissors for cutting tough stuff like lead/tungsten (weight) wire, monofilament, ribbing wire and hair from hides. The biggest thing with decent scissors is to avoid using the tips of the scissors for anything but the finest snips.


  12. Jsyzmczyk,


    I don't think that anyone is suggesting that a beginning tyer, or anyone for that matter, you should throw out creativity and tie only carbon-copies of existing patterns. However, there are certainly techniques and methods that have become standardized over time simply because they are proven and effective. Proper mayfly nymph proportions, for example, vary little now from what was considered appropriate by Frank Sawyer when he originated the Pheasant Tail Nymph............ simply because those proportions have been proven effective. Sure, you are more than welcome to rib your size 20 PTN with Medium Ultra Wire or telephone cable if that's what makes you happy. But, the profile of the fly will be compromised and the trout will ultimately be the judges. I think that those forum members who suggested Ultra Wire sizes to this curious new tyer, were simply trying to point him in a productive direction not dampen his creativity.


    Agree 100%. Even if you use telephone cable on a size 20 hook and you don't catch anything, at least you were fortunate enough to go fishin'!

  13. Just a side not on UV light. I use a UV light a lot, a big 12 bulb one. You should never look at it while you are using it, just cup it in your hand and turn your head away. You can just close your eyes, that's all I do. Just make sure theres not pets in the room looking at it while your using it.


    I also use it to recharge the dogs glow in dark ball at night. By the time I get home it's dark and the dog still wants to play fetch outside. I just shine it on the ball while it's in my pocket. Does a great job.


    Granted, UV is supposed to be beyond the ability of human sight. But when I think of UV light, I think of that fluorescent tube stuff from the '60s and '70s and the associated posters, skin paint, etc. The Tuffleye "flashlight" doesn't have that weird "glow" to it... although the wavelengths emitted by the Tuffleye product may be considerably refined as compared to the "psychedelic" days. Did you ever think you'd see the word "psychedelic" in a fly-tying forum? LOL!


  14. I buy most of my stuff from J. Stockard, but I have received stuff from most of the usual online suspects. I have also bought stuff from a local shop and a nearby Cabela's . I keep my stuff in three sealed plastic containers, each about the size of two shoe boxes. I keep artificial materials in one, feathers in another, and fur in the third. All of my stuff lives in my house, so maybe 50 degrees F minimum and 85 degrees F maximum. None of my stuff is exposed to direct sunlight. To date, I have not microwaved/frozen/boiled/mothballed/whatever anything, and have not noticed any emerging aliens. If I gather some materials "from the wild", I will think more about sterilization measures.


  15. so i was at tiefest this weekend and it was sweet! i noticed bob popovics demonstrating using this adhesive. the adhesive was a flexible acrylic that you needed this blue light for! it is not uv because he specifically said that you should not use uv cause it hurts your eyes over time. so the light shined a really blue light.....


    do you know the type of light or the type of adhesive?


    Tuffleye sells a flashlight that is blue and produces a very bright blue light. http://www.wetahook.com I would classify Tuffleye as a sealant more than an adhesive.


    I have the kit. Occasionally I drag the stuff out and tie something with it. I've managed to create some cool looking hardheaded flies. I strongly recommend a rotary vise if you plan to use the Tuffleye product. The blue light makes it harden fairly quickly, but not quickly enough that you wont have a "belly" of stuff on the lower side if you don't turn it while the gel is curing. I haven't tied with true epoxy yet, so I can't comment whether the Tuffleye product is any better or worse than epoxy. I am pretty sure Tuffleye is more expensive than epoxy.

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