neoFLYte

I believe the general rule of thumb is to spin on backing to about one-third full.

This is version 1 of my perversion of Ritt's Fighting Crayfish. http://www.theweeklyfly.com/index.php/TheW...-crayfish-17-06 I'll try to post the next version, which I think will be a big improvement - not that my photography will be much help. :-)

If you are interested, there was a sprited discussion recently here: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=49980

Wow. Excellent tip!

This is in no way "dogging" David Legg... just a comment/opinion. Perhaps I have not received my copy of The Rules of Fly Tying. I think copying existing patterns to the smallest detail is great practice. Obviously, those patterns would not remain popular if they were totally unproductive, and by tying them you get some cool flies that will probably catch fish. BUT, if you keep an eye on this and other fly forums, every week you will see a few completely new patterns, some hybrids of two or more existing patterns, and dozens of re-spins of existing patterns. My point is that there would be no innovation if everyone tied by The Rules. I imagine tying strictly by The Rules would get pretty boring.

I am no expert on flies, either past or present, but I envy you for having flies actually tied by your grandfather. I think it's very cool!

Looks like a fine fly to me.

A straight razor would be a cool tool for tying. I did some straight razor research a while back - not related to fly tying. Why? Just because. Anyhow, I decided the initial expense for a good razor and the accessories and the maintenance learning curve were both a little steep.

Oatka... Too funny! Which is more durable? I have no idea. I finish my flies with a whip finish and use Griff's Thin head cement, Griff's Thick head cement, Hard as Hull, Sally Hansen clear nail polish, or Tuffleye... depending on what effect I am after.

For me, watching videos helps. There are many videos available that show how to tie a wide variety of flies. My suggestion is to watch a few different people tie whatever fly you are thinking about. David Cammiss was an inspiration to me when I started tying. Here is a link to his video for the Woolley Bugger. http://learnflytying.co.uk/the-shipmans-buzzer-2.html

Other than the cheap little scissors I use for cutting wire, thick feather parts, etc., I have three sizes of Dr. Slick scissors and like them quite well. I got some Taperizer scissors a month or so ago. I think it will take some practice to get the hang of them, but it looks like they will be useful in some situations. If you're into nice instruments/tools, one thing I might add to the thread (no pun intended): consider picking up some curved Mayo scissors for tough stuff like cutting hair from hides. Mayo scissors are "heavy" surgical scissors. I'm sure there are numerous places to get them, but mine came from eBay. The ones I picked up are the 7" size. They come smaller and larger. If you have a hankering to use the same Mayo scissors used in a lot of hospitals, you might see if you can find some Codman (brand) Mayo scissors.

Pardner, that fly reminds me mighty powerful of that carn-sarned Yosemite Sam. Good looking fly, Old Hat!

Here is my 2 cents regarding the Peak and the Mongoose. I have a Peak Rotary and a Griffin Mongoose. As a rule, the flies I tie range from size 8 to size 14. In my opinion, the rotary function of the Peak is quite good. I got the brass accessories for the Peak, which make it look pretty cool. I prefer pedestal vises over C-clamp vises, and prefer the Peak pedestal over the Mongoose pedestal. Both vises have 3/8" stems, so the pedestals (or C-clamps) are interchangable. I prefer the hook access and hook holding power of Griffin vises (I also have a Griffin Montana Pro). When I first got the Mongoose, I found that the rotary aspect of it was not terribly smooth. I was aggravated to have to mess with my new Mongoose, but did some disassembly, adjustment, and re-assembly of the Mongoose to get the rotary function equivalent to that of the Peak. In spite of having to fine-tune the rotary function of the Mongoose, I like it better than the Peak.

I agree that your flies would be effective on many warmwater species in the US... and I am not aware of an "asp" fish in the US. Some of the pictures on the Internet looks similar to what we (in the Southern US) would call a Striped bass. Others look like nothing I have seen in the area. At any rate.. looks like a good fish to go after!

Somewhere I read that water-based head cement was recommended for flies with that teeny-tiny plastic tubing like Liquid Lace. I suppose all of the solvents in the regular kind could melt/dissolve the plastic. I bought some Liquid Lace and some Loon Water-Based Head Cement a while back, but I haven't gotten around to tying anything with either of them.

I bought some Mayo scissors to cut (mainly deer) hair from hides. Mayo scissors are used medically (as in Operating Rooms) as a kind of utility scissors. They are quite heavy and you can get them with curved tips. Mine came from eBay, but I'm sure they can be picked up elsewhere.

Like others, I use those dental floss threader things.

Looks good to me! I agree that tying with deer hair is fun... but MAN is it messy when you start the trimming stage. :-)

Love the eyes!

1. I never met a fly that caught fish that was "ugly". 2. I am glad I've dropped a few bills on fly-tying over the past couple of years instead of a few hours in a shrink's office. 3. In a former life I had a <gasp> bass boat. I used to joke about fish I caught being "worth X thousand dollars". Nevertheless, I enjoyed every second I spent on the boat and didn't regret a single dollar I spent on the boat and the upkeep. I suppose I could apply the same math (on a smaller scale) to fly tying and fly fishing, but I don't bother. And tying a few flies after a day of cubicle madness is a great way to escape the grind.

Welcome to the board! I hope we can help you cope with Xbox withdrawal. :-)

Awww, man! Is this thread about creating "vise envy" among your colleagues? :-)

I have a fixed vise and a rotary vise (both of them are the same brand). For me, it's all about how obsessive/compulsive I happen to be during a tying session. I find that getting flies "just right" requires a rotary vise so you can spin it during the process to check for symmetry. Also, I find it easier to use a rotary vise to wrap components when too much or not enough tension is a factor. But the "bling factor" can also be a consideration. :-)

I'll have to do some research on fly casting techniques for frozen water. Maybe a 500wt rod could throw an Icebreaker Fly? <wink> Fishyboy: I thought your pic was quite whimsical! :-)

I agree with redietz to a point, but without ambition and determination Bud Guidry and others wouldn't be tying these masterpieces. Setting your sights high can be a very good thing!