Jump to content
Fly Tying


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About kbarton

  • Rank
    Bait Fisherman

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    smallmouth bass
  • Security
  1. I don't agree at all. Craft store feathers are largely limited to a couple of bright colored boa's - most lack any selection, and they are second quality feathers. Consider that the fly tying industry is mighty small - and if you add up most of the sales it probably doesn't equal the gross of a Michael's or Joann's ... As such, few items are made for the fly tying industry per se - most are made for other industries - and someone found a dual usage. All of the yarns and synthetic furs are 1/10 the price of a fly shop - whose tiny 3 yard cards aren't worth the money. Antron, Polypropylene, Z-lon, and all the pearlescent and iridescent materials are from other hobbies or industries, and can be purchased in larger quantities and cheaper prices elsewhere. Rabbits aren't slaughtered for fly tiers, they're killed for rabbit meat - and Hareline buys rabbit skins from the same supplier the glove makers use - nothing is special about the fur. I do believe in supporting the local shop - and buy my genetic chicken necks (which are grown for fly tiers) from them - but skip buying copper wire, floss, yarn, rabbit fur, mohair, rubberlegs, bead chain, and animal fur - as I can buy from better sources, get a larger selection, and pay less to boot. These are tough economic times - and I'll pocket the difference and pay my mortgage instead. When you find the "source" for a material, like Ice Dub, you begin to think differently, considering you can buy a pound for $45, and they sell 1/8 ounce for $3.00. I'm with the craft stores - I'll support the fly shop with the large dollar items like rods, lines, and reels - but just because it came from a shop doesn't mean it's better quality - nor does it mean it's free of moth eggs. Considering the "harsh" chemicals I use to quarantine ALL NEW PURCHASES - I don't care what the feathers smell like when removed from the bag, they'll smell a lot worse after they've be nuked...
  2. Sister Carol Anne Corley's grass carp fly is a great grass/weed imitation... I think the pattern database has it - or look it up on Google
  3. Rotometals has lead by the sheet, you'd have to add your own adhesive. Lead Sheets from RotoMetals The best source would be buying good wine for the wife, she gets the liquor, you get the points, and the lead wrapper for the cork.
  4. kbarton


    Sewing thread is often woven so that it doesn't tie flat like fly tying thread. Thread buildup is your enemy when you're learning and a "round" thread will build up bulk far quicker than a flat fly tying nylon. Really big flies like Bass streamers or saltwater flies would be OK, but even here the round thread will be pronounced and it'll take only one thread to sever and everything will start to unravel. Epoxy as a head cement would help. Also many sewing threads are made of cotton, which will rot over time - and will certainly discolor. Nylon and synthetic threads are fairly impervious to age - so if you do try the sewing thread on something make sure it's a good synthetic. Ribbing a fly with sewing thread is fine - often the pronounced round feature of sewing thread will make more of a stark contrast to the body, just make sure it's a synthetic.
  5. Surely, the balance of the feather can still be used as hackle - and you can use wing burners to reshape the new tip into something else - a mayfly wing or wingcase of some sort. With hackle your most expensive item - using the balance of the feather for tails would get you your monies worth.
  6. Attached is a couple of boa flies using the Bernat Boa yarn. A brown tadpole and a red crayfish, both have great action.
  7. Another vote for Togen, I've used the nymph, 3x Streamer, Scud, and a couple others for two seasons, have had no issues with their construction or use.
  • Create New...