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Fly Tying

jbenenson

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About jbenenson

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    Beginner
  • Birthday 08/29/1943

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    http://www.stoneflyrods.org
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  • Location
    Santa Fe, NM
  1. The current contest in American Angler is for soft hackles. Entries must be submitted by mid-May. See the March issue for details. I think your fly definitely should be entered.
  2. Michael, The one in the book has more leaders and formulas, you can add your own notes and specs, and you can print 4-color labels. It's what you would expect between a freebie and what you spend money for. It's basically the same tool, but with quite a few more features. Plus, the book is worth reading for the information on leader design and behavior. Jim
  3. I don't think that this debate will ever end. My own opinion is that line color basically doesn't matter; there are too many variables for a clear-cut choice. The main ones are not frightening the fish and making the line easy to see. I believe that the first is taken care of more by presentation, drag, and length of leader than by line color; the second is not important to me, since I watch the fly and indicator 90% of the time. I can see the line on the water along as it is not totally invisible, so I prefer muted colors such as tan or "willow". If bright lines actually frightened fish, the manufacturers wouldn't sell them and guides wouldn't use them. Neither is the case.
  4. I have a number of reels, just because I like 'em. I would pay over $200 only if I had to. I think that most fly reels (and rods) are considerably overpriced. Have you ever looked at what kind of baitcasting reel you can get for the equivalent money, with all the machining, gearing, multi-disk drag, etc? I think that well-made fly reels should cost $75 to $100. Most of the time I fish with a Cabela's Deschutes (discontinued?), an Orvis Battenkill L.A., or a Ross Gunnison G2 (old style). One of my favorites is my late mother's Hardy Princess. I put on one of the new Cortland Sylk lines and use it with my 60's-vintage Orvis 99 that I bought in Manchester, VT factory (with Wes Jordan's assistance with the selection). I use that several times a year just to re-visit the experience.
  5. You get the best version of Leadercalc if you buy the book: "Drag-Free Drift: Leader Design and Presentation Techniques for Fly Fishing" It's very interesting reading covering leader design, theory, materials, presentation, drift, etc. It's available on Amazon, among other places
  6. I carry my dries in several styles of boxes. The cheap plastic ones with open compartments are my preferred style, as I want to protect the hackles. I tend to put too many in each compartment, so when I want just one I get a few (a problem in the wind).
  7. I left out a step on the instructions. After wrapping the thread to mid-shank, tie in the tail fibers the length of the hook, then proceed with the Krystal Flash
  8. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Baetis flash nymph
  9. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Green caddis worm
  10. Most successful flies of this genre have legs (or leg representations), so I would incorporate some into your fly. The Wooly Bugger is famous for a reason; I happen to think it's a leggy body and marabou.
  11. I REALLY like the looks of this fly!
  12. I can't imagine tying without a rotary vise. I've been using one for about a decade (a Renzetti Presentation 4000) and recently added a Danvise for use in my office. Here are some of the advantages (not necessarily in order)... Most important IMHO: you can tie and view the fly 360 degrees. 1) In a conventional vise you can't see the far side of the fly. 2) trout see dry flies from underneath; you view them from the side with a conventional vise. Wrapping anything along the shank goes much more smoothly (uniformity and tension) using a rotary than by hand. This is particularly important when wrapping conventional and palmered hackle. Tying properly-positioned material anywhere on the shank is easier (top, bottom, sides, in-between). Wrapping the base of divided wings and posts is a cinch: rotate the wing/post to the top position and wrap with ease. Spinning material "ropes" (including dubbing loops) is easy. Half-hitch first (important!) then hold the materail and thread out over the eye and twist away, pull everything 90 degs downward, then continue twisting to wrap the material. This is nicely shown on Beatty's video. Trimming spun deer hair is easily done while the fly is still in the vise. Once you get proficient, wrapping and tying goes much faster with a rotary. Stick with it and you'll never go back, IMHO.
  13. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Olive Flash soft hackle
  14. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Patriot
  15. I had the same problem. If you aren't wedded to the Loon product, change brands. It's not worth the frustration IMHO.
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