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Fly Tying

Scarface Z

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About Scarface Z

  • Rank
    Beginner
  • Birthday 10/17/1985

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  • Favorite Species
    trout
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  • Location
    NW P.A.
  1. Nice! This gives me a game plan for a trip to my nearest fly shop in Orlando, and for putting together a cart for an online order (I'm overdue anyway).
  2. Thanks! I'm planning on getting most of my tying done this month so hopefully I'll have some successes to share. Time to start planning a materials order...
  3. I bought this Green Drake cripple at least a decade ago from The Feathered Hook in Coburn, PA. And while I've moved to Florida since then, this fly has served me well every year I've made it up north for the Green Drake hatch. Now, it's getting a bit rusty and I want to tie up some more for this spring. I'm not a beginner, really, but I'm rather rusty and was never much good at identifying wet fly feathers. I've almost used up all the feathers that I moved down here with, and I'm not sure what I'd need to order. I appreciate any help and advice. Thanks!
  4. It gets a little logged. Alpaca does wick moisture like wool, but I don't think it absorbs as much or gets as heavy as wool does. I think part of this is because alpaca contains hollow fibers, and so it stays a bit lighter. I have made a few trout dry flies with it, and they floated decently enough. Though, they'd probably do better if I could find a source with more guard hairs in it. Unfortunately, guard hairs make for a particularly itchy yarn , so I'm not sure where I'd get them. Probably an alpaca farm...but that's work.
  5. Of course! For the white fly shown above I actually used a bamboo fiber yarn and a size H crochet hook. The tail and collar is arctic fox. Cool! I'll have to try that sometime, too. Agreed, that's what I've read about this stitch too. Also, natural fibers can be straightened out with a short soak and drying in proper shape (through just fishing it usually works).
  6. Yeah you can furl, but I think this looks better, it's still dead easy, crochet hooks cost at most $1.50 at full price, and some already have them for knotting legs or weaving bodies. Also, it's a pain adding tails to furled bodies, but this is easy. I've uploaded a sample pattern with instructions: Crochet Damsel Nymph And here's something else you can do with the technique:
  7. Thanks! Never made a video though, so I'll link to a youtube crochet tutorial for now, and see if I can get photos to work for me in the light of day. How to crochet a chain The only thing they don't show in this video is how to fasten off, but it's easy. Cut the yarn, and pull it all the way through the last loop, and it's done (shown in last step of the link from the first post). As long as you secure it with glue, you can add extra tailing material in this step by pulling it through with the yarn, I'll post a photo of this in the morning.
  8. I've been playing around with making bodies this way for a while, and I think I've got it looking pretty good. I made the body using the most basic crochet stitch: the chain stitch. A nymph body only takes a couple of stitches and is super easy. I used two strands of alpaca lace held together (brown and reddish-brown) on a size 14 fly hook using a size B crochet hook. I put a bit of glue on the tail-end and attached the butt-end by simply lashing it to the hook. However, one can also thread the body onto the hook before tying (this works better for larger sizes). I like this method because the body has a slight flattened shape, and it's less dense than furled bodies. Also, there's no need to worry about attaching a tail, as the end of the yarn can be unraveled and trimmed into a very serviceable tail. The body also has a natural tendency to curl, which I think looks more natural. And perhaps the best part, because the body is secure once you make it (it can't unravel or come apart) you don't have to be at your vise to make these. As long as you've got material and a hook, you can crank these out wherever you are: in a car, at the mall, or during TV/movies, etc. Cons: Depending on the crocheter, the body may tend to curve slightly left or right. Also, anything smaller than a size 16 may be more trouble than it's worth.
  9. Preliminary results suggest it fishes well . I'll admit that it might be considered to still be in the "testing phase." I only had one chance to fish it last year. I caught two nice brown trout in two casts and then nothing the rest of the day . I intend to put it through its paces a bit more this spring during a trip to central PA. I was home sick yesterday (still am), tying flies, and decided I should post the pattern online since it had been forever since I had posted here. It floats reasonably well. I'd say at least as well as, say, a comparadun or parachute. It tends to ride on the water pivoted on the hackle, sometimes the abdomen rests on the water and sometimes the fly stands on its toes with the abdomen lifted above the water. Trimming the downward pointing hackle greatly reduces the chance that the fly will land on its side, but also seems to force the fly to ride with the abdomen on the water. I think I prefer mine trimmed all the same. I held a trimmed one upside-down, two feet above a cup of water and dropped it; it landed right-sight up and floated. Seems reliable to me. I suspect that a hair wing and head is more floaty, but it's a bit hard to manage on a size eighteen hook (have managed it on a March Brown, see below). The antron makes pretty eyes, but I'll admit that it's akin to attaching a plastic bead to all your dry flies (not that efficient). I'm going to try a CDC wing and extended body, once I don't have to worry about sneezing my materials away that is. That should probably be the most floaty if it works, though slime-sceptable. A prototype from last year: Sorry for the fuzzy photos; I'm working with a scanner :whistle: .
  10. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by Scarface Z: Mike's Extended-Head Dun
  11. Maybe this is obvious, but I'm posting it anyway: It helps if you use cross-cut hair strips rather than length-wise cut rabbit. Length-wise strips are (if you can picture it) cut from the head to the rear of the rabbit. Cross-cut strips are cut in the shoulder to shoulder direction. I hope my imagery isn't confusing you. The difference is in the direction of the hair. On length-wise strips, typical zonker strips, the hair runs fron the tip of the strip to the end. However, on cross-cut strips the hair runs perpendicular to the skin. This means the cross-cut hair will alway lay back when you palmer it. Apparently they sell these now, I've always cut them myself. Cross-cut
  12. A trip to the craft store over spring break re-introduced me to a clay i had used as a kid. It's Crayola Model Magic. Has anyone ever tried it? It's basically a white, play-doh like substance, but when it dries it's more of a foam-like material. And it floats! I never pass up a chance to experiment so i picked up some small packs of the stuff. I think it will work very well. It is a little brittle if you make it too thin, but that's manageable. As you can imagine, it does spin around the hook when dry, but that's nothing some crazy glue and epoxy can't fix (a thread base helps the glue hold). Molding was a pain at first, but with some practice it became much easier. Check it out, sorry for the crummy pictures. I don't have any finished, but you get the idea. Hey, i know it may look like a turd now, but i think its got promise as a hopper pattern.
  13. Hey, I've used pellet flies to a great exent. I often fish the little lehigh which runs right past a hatchery. The two best pellet flies I've ever used are: Coffe bean flie: Just wrap some brown thread around the hook shank and crazy glue a coffe bean on top of the shank. The thread gives the glue something to hold onto. This is my favorite one because it float amazingly well and rides just like a pellet. Also, when the fly hits the water it makes a tiny "plop" exactly like if someone threw some pellets into the water. I've found that trout who are used to pellets react to sound almost as much as to sight. Foam pellet: The second best is the foam pellet fly that a good friend of mine gave me. I don't remember exactly what type of foam he used, I want to say it was that same type of foam they use for those thin foam sleeping mats. The cheap ones: http://www.stanford.edu/group/EV/Misc/VRC/...bluefoammat.jpg He threaded the foam onto the hook and tied thread infront and behind and I think he colored it with a brown marker and I think put just a little cement on it. Nice thing about this is you trim the foam to exact specs. Pellet flies are usually my last resort, somehow it feels like cheating. I might post some pictures if and when I get to a camera and get a chance to tie some of these flies.
  14. Is that the same foam sheets that they use for packaging? It looks thicker than those in the picture.
  15. Shoe, you could just use those lead strips they sell as fishing weights. The ones that come in sort of a match book that you twist on to your line. Here, I found some info in case you have no idea what I'm talking about Twistons I don't know if the dimensions percisely fit your purpose, but they are cheap and easily obtainable. I'm sure they could be adapted to your use
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