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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by TitanFlies

  1. I'm thinkin' Chicago style deep dish pizza. Pepperoni, keep it simple. All other pizza falls short of it in my honest opinion. Chicago dogs are the best too.
  2. Size 10 and a heavy 12 oughta do it.
  3. the bush is a Red Twig Dogwood. The Native American tries used to used them because of the straight nature of the branches.
  4. There's nothing better than a nice piece of velco on a stick. Mmmmm.
  5. Scooch everything up just a but; you're proportions are a bit off. You can accomplish this by not leaving as much room for the heam, making a longer abdomen, a shorter and fatter thorax, and smaller head. Looks good though! No reason to be disappointed with it.
  6. I second this. TFO rods are great and there's never anything to be disappointed about.
  7. think about the commercial fly tyer tying thse flies. he has an order for lets say 30 dozen of these flies. is this tyer going to sit down and pull apart a few strands of this color poly yarn and mix it with that color poly yarn so he can do these fly bodies. i dont think so. he is going to look for the easiest and least time consuming method to tie these flies. time = money in his pocket. If we're talking strictly about the allotment of time, then a thread body would be the easiest, least time consuming method of making a body that gives excellent results (I can vouch). Also, the passive aggressiveness in this thread is almost unbearable.
  8. Dyna King pride! I bought the HMH Standard before I bought the Pro but got fed up with it. Couldn't tighten the jaws without the entire vise head moving, the hooks would constantly slip if you didn't over tighten the jaw pressure, the set screw doesn't set... just a myriad of problems I had. But I do think HMH is the best looking vise out there.
  9. To fish, it's gotta be Bethke's Pink Squirrel. To tie, it's hand's down the Copper John.
  10. If you buy materials for your flies at a retail price, then the selling price of you flies will be exceedingly larger than that of fly shop or online vendors. I'm talking like $2.25 per. I wouldn't sell them for anything less in order to make the labor worth it. BUT if you buy materials at wholesale then you'd have to calculate your expenses vs. desired earnings and then price accordingly. I tied up around ~250 flies for someone about 2 years ago. I got (I think) $350 for it??? All in all, I wouldn't do it again for that kind of profit margin. So now I just tie for me, myself, and I and for anyone who says please.
  11. For me, I prefer Tully's 10% Kona Blend... black of course.
  12. Wow this is really cool stuff! Admirable dedication. Is this going to be salt or freshwater? P.S. I, too, think black coffee is the only way to drink it.
  13. I would definitely tie more than just 1 of each... more like 15-20 of each especially if I am just learning a pattern. Come to think of it... I don't even think I know of 104 patterns to tie off the top of my head. Shit, I actually fish only like 12 different patterns.
  14. What's wrong with both? I think knowing where the fish are and having a deadly fly make for a good day of fishing...
  15. I never use wax and my dries catch fish. Super fine dry fly dubbing dubs to the thread easily enough already, wax isn't necessary.
  16. I used Guderbrod (sp?) 45 denier... it might be equivalent to 14/0? No clue, the ought system is weird. But damn it might me my favorite thread even thought I only have it in grey - still looks okay on most flies though.
  17. I'm pretty sure he know's what they look like CDC is short for Cul De Canard which is French for something to the effect of "from a ducks rump". Most European tiers use this in their patterns as a sub for traditional rooster hackle. It floats quite well and is 1/8 as big as a marabou feather. Marabou is usually used for tailing, wings, or collars. Don't try tying a pattern with marabou if it calls for CDC.
  18. Haha I knew you'd get the hang of it fast, you're first attempt was a really good one! Just keep doin' what you're doing and learn the Humpy for a dry fly and use the CJ and Humpy as a dry-dropper rig. Keep up the good work, man!
  19. Dyna King Pro. What's not to like about it? The simplicity of it is remarkable and allows you to just get down to tying. No tension knobs, no rotary arms, no bells and whistles. Best $300 I've ever spent.
  20. Lead wire to hook size doesn't exactly have a ratio, you just gotta kinda eyeball it. However on a TMC 5262 a size .015 lead wire is perfect. Also, a 3/32 size bead is ideal for size 14-16 hooks.
  21. I'd say keep doing what you're doing. The Copper John is such a cool fly and a lot of fun to tie, I don't blame you for trying; that's a very good start by the way! It might take you a few dozen more hooks to get the hang of it if you're jumping right into the more complex flies but you'll get the hang of it after a while no doubt. The hardest part on the CJ is the biot tails, the tapering, and just having the right materials. I found the only way to get desirable results is if you use the TMC 5262 it will make the fly look most proportionate. Also, the wire. Size 12 use medium. Size 14 use Brassie. Size >16 use Small (with UTC wire Brassie is slightly bigger in diameter than small). Weight the fly with ~10 wraps of .015 lead and that should give you a nice taper given that you smooth taper of thread. After all that it's pretty much a cake walk and just like a pheasant tail nymph. tl;dr: It's a good start, the right materials are important.
  22. It's your bobbin. I'd recommend a Griffin ceramic bobbin; they're cheap, good quality, and won't cut your thread. Here you go, and merry Christmas! http://www.cabelas.com/tools-vises-griffin-ceramic-bobbin-1.shtml
  23. I SPOKE WITH FARUK EKICH TODAY. THERE IS A TWO YEAR WAITING LIST COST 3000.00 US DOLLARS There's no earthly way that it's worth that much money.
  24. Wow, that's a rod if I've ever seen one. That medallion on the bottom has me thinking. I have a Mercury dime that I have that I think is lucky. Do you think some CA glue would suffice?
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