Bruce Norikane
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Everything posted by Bruce Norikane
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Love it! I'm a big fan of parachute ants. I wasted a lot of time not fishing ants because I couldn't see them.
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Possibly a dead end as the Jerry Neal I'm thinking about is probably the late father. The son, Jerry Neal, works for Colorado Parks and Wildlife and writes the current articles. Here's the son's Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/jerry.neal.75
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I think it might have been the current author's late father, also Jerry Neal, who wrote about the traditional Colorado flies. Did you try Jerry Neal at Colorado Parks and Wildlife?
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Jerry Neal is a great resource for older and obscure flies that were popular in Colorado.
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Like Powershooter, I like Letort hoppers for small hoppers. Especially for picky fish. When the fish are hitting, a Madam X is a quicker tie and uses very common materials. (This is not my tie. It comes from Old AuSable Anglers website.)
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Ask the bug ID forum at Troutnut. http://www.troutnut.com/
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It's growing in Colorado. More shops sell Tenkara gear and Tenkara guide service every year.
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UV resin is so useful. I've used it for a few things around the house, just because I had it. So you're right, the craft stores should stock it. Many hardware stores carry UV glue, either Bondic or the infomercial version "5 second fix". I assume the craft stores are next.
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For big drakes, I like Scott's (SBPatt) Carnage style patterns. He has dozens of SBS tutorials that show the tying steps in detailed and beautiful photographs. Here's one from the Step by Step Patterns and Tutorials forum: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=82916
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Looking for wing material suggestions
Bruce Norikane replied to prairiedrifter's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
In a similar effort to put a spot of color hidden from the fish, for midge dries, I use a foam post with a bright orange spot on the flat top. I use a marker or fluorescent orange fabric paint. Most of the time, I just use a bright orange, pink or yellow post or wing. I've caught some very picky fish using fluoro posts. -
On what feathers do I find "gray (dun) hackle?
Bruce Norikane replied to SpokaneDude's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Noooooooooo! Tell me this isn't true! Please, please My flyboxes are full of parachutes, My favorite ties. I can tie them from #8 to #28. I use them for emergers, adults, attractors. Mayflies, midges, caddis (sometimes), terrestrials (some patterns.) . I love parachutes because they are easy to tie. They always land upright, so no picky proportion issues. I can see them very easily. It's my one slightly advanced competency. I sometimes use Comparaduns and a few clipped bottom patterns like Barr's VisiDun. Actually, I tend to use these as more visible spinner patterns. -
On what feathers do I find "gray (dun) hackle?
Bruce Norikane replied to SpokaneDude's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Ignore the wings/legs description. Steve is wrapping a normal dry hackle, then cutting the bottom. The wings/legs is his description of what the wrapped hackle imitates. You just need grey (dun) dry fly hackle. Exactly like what Flytire shows. Here's the step-by-step. http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns-tie-better/better-winged-olives -
These don't float. They sink like most unweighted nymphs. They also work during bwo hatches for some reason. Black thread body, copper rib, a wee bit of foam. Very quick and easy tie.
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Carpet Beetles... Enemy to Tiers.
Bruce Norikane replied to Ed Gallop's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
There was a thread on this in January http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=84764&hl=%20pest%20%20strip I have been using No Pest Strips for years, but I'm going to stop. I hate the smell of moth crystals, so No Pest Strips seemed like a better alternative. I cut up the strips and put a piece in each fur or feathers bin. This is definitely against the recommended safe practice. After reading up on No Pest Strips yesterday, here are the latest safe handling rules. Never touch the strips with bare skin, the stuff is carcinogenic and can transfer through contact Don't cut the strips Don't use them in occupied rooms. There meant for sheds and attics. No Pest Strips shouldn't really be used in your tying room I can stop touching them and cutting them, but I sit near my tying materials for many hours a day. I don't see a practical way to move my tying materials to another room. I'm sad as this has worked for me for over 10 years. If anyone is interested, No Pest Strips use Dichlorvos (2,2-dichlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate) as the active incredient. Here's the SDS: For use in unoccupied areas; not for use in homes except garages, attics, crawl spaces, and sheds occupied by people for less than 4 hours per day. -
Flatrock - Hey it looks like those C&F nippers also solve the big problem with my second favorite tool! Do they have a C&F threader built in? Wowsa, I love those threaders, but I haven't found a good way to make them accessible and protected. Do you like the built in threader and needle?
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Looks like a Dai Riki 700B. That's the hook I use for Pat's Rubber Legs, my go to heavy stonefly. I use lead wraps around the lower shank, so it rides hook point up.
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Don't forget, only the bottom matters to the fish. I would go with a simple foam beetle. They all float but are hard to see without a sighter sticking up. I use a high vis post or "wing" on all my beetles. It takes a surprising amount of foam to float a hook. Although some foams are lower density, I've found common craft foam floats as well as any of them. I've done the math and the lower density foams don't make that much difference in floatation. Craft foam is the most common stuff found in big box stores. If your patterns sink, use more foam and smaller or lighter hooks. Sometimes I tie a beetle on a short shank hook with quite a bit of the foam abdomen extending off the back or the hook. Greater foam to hook ratio. Here's a standard foam beetle that I use as a basic template. http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/details.cfm?parentID=53
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Nothing works all the time for me, but here's some things that I try during PMD hatches in Colorado. You've probably already tried these. Floating pheasant tail nymph, even when I see trout taking adults on the surface. Comparadun Sparkle Dun For your parachute, I usually match the post to the wing color. For the yellow legs, you could try a light hackle and after wrapping, use a yellow Sharpie to draw legs. Or you could color the whole feather yellow before wrapping. Either a permanent marker, Kool-Aid dyeing or food color dyes would work. You could even take the marker onstream and try some variations while you fish.
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Tests, all with Windows 10, Chrome browser (latest 64 bit) Result for today: Straight paste seems to embed the video. Link feature does not. 1. Straight paste of youtube url: text pasted, " " 2. Using "Link" feature and pasting same url into Link field in dialog box. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOvhlKSURXI&feature=youtu.be
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Ralph Cutter's EC Caddis wraps the hackle like that. He designed it after using scuba gear to watch caddis emerging. http://www.flyline.com/fly_patterns/dry_flies/ec_caddis/
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Anglers Image nippers! Yes, yes, yes! Excellent nippers and easy to sharpen, and I love the retractable needle. I use it a lot. Works much better than the needles that are protected by the "ears". I've had mine for over 20 years. My relatives bought me one of the Abel $85 nippers. I don't use them. Cut very good, but I need that retractable needle. The Abel needle is inside the jaws and not handy at all.
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Cheech's Bunny midge http://www.flyfishfood.com/2013/02/bunny-midge.html
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I do not understand why companies ignore emails. Really negligent and costs them more money to answer a phone call. That said, it's really common. Many companies of all sizes let their [email protected] disappear in a black hole. Doesn't make sense. I've had a lot of luck with fly tying companies through the phone, but, in many cases, email would have been my first choice.
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You don't need a hackle guage. The hackle should be 1.5 times the hook gap.
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You could hang the pegboard on a wall, then put a whatever table fits in front of it. Use plastic bins and drawers on top of and under the table. Cheap and simple.