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Fly Tying


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About strmanglr

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  1. Same thing with me, started fly fishing, went into a shop, $3.00 per fly, that got me tying within a week. I really enjoy tying, I figure I got about 20-50 cents in a fly when I tie it. Like Mike said, buy only the materials to make the flies you want to fish and things will go ok for you. I fish mainly dries, nymphs and spiders, occasional streamer. I might have . . .totally guessing here maybe $500 dollars in materials and tools. I'm thinking that is an extremely high guess, but I have enough materials to last me for couple years if I couldn't buy any more stuff. When I get home I'm gonna add it up. It sure is nice tagging a bush with a 25 cent fly than one you paid $3.00 for. Don't go nuts and it will work out. My vise cost $30.00 works great been using it for years. I'm sure others will read that and laugh, they might have spent 7-10 times that amount. Does that expensive vise help you catch fish? Do the flies look any better? I don't think so.
  2. That's pretty good I checked Janns Netcraft-tungsten beads of that size would run $29.99 for a 100.
  3. Hard to go wrong with purple and orange imo. Try some purple and black as well, and orange and black.. I like to put a touch of weight not wrapped but just a line of wire on the top of the hook and tie upside down from what you have. I try and swing deep like within 18 inches of the bottom. Of course weighted on the top will allow the fly to swing hook up, less chance of snagging various rocks and bottom imo.
  4. Welcome in, sorry haven't had the opportunity to need salt water flies.
  5. That desk would easily retail for $1500, again easily.
  6. Used to dread tying parachutes. I use a little piece of foam about .5cm x .5cm with a slit cut in the middle to hold back the hackle. I still use that but my paradigm shift came when I started dubbing just a touch after securing the end of the parachute hackle. Now I just dub a little on the head, helps keep the hackle off the head. Then tilt the vise a little and whip finish on the head.
  7. Yeah, don't get misled by the hype. The scissors I put up won't slow you down one bit, much easier to use. No predetermined "spot" for a finger to go, fit all hands no matter size. Use a commonly found 40% off coupon from JoAnns and save yourself close to $20.00. That's gas money to my nearest stream. I laughed when I saw the "sixth finger" scissors.
  8. http://www.joann.com/snip-eze-embroidery-snips/xprd1130591/ I just thought I would post this, these are great scissors I have been using for 5 years. Soooo much better than the sixth finger scissors, they don't get hung up on my fingers, If I need to reposition in my hand or drop for a second and pick back up again and go. No hole to get my finger out of. . .much better. Happy tying strmanglr
  9. oh, sorry for asking. i forgot it's like a high school clique here.
  10. i'm just curious how many people use the quill wing caddis.
  11. i just lucked out and found an old radio tube box at the antique mall. i got it for 23 bucks. the top opens and has two compartments in it. one perfect for my vise the other perfect for my tools. then each side folds out and there are three divided spaces and on the other side it has 5. i made boxes to fit those compartments out of poster board(mainly cause the box was heavy enough already). it swallowed all my stuff and i've got room for a whole bunch more. i know this probably doesn't help you, i imagine that's a hard thing to find. i just had to relay the story of a good find.
  12. the folks here are right, buy them individually. what you buy will reflect what you fish for too. i would recommend buying at least two bobbins three or four is really nice. it's so nice to have the thread you want ready to go. i don't use a bobbin threader anymore either-just put a little in the end and such it through, that way you don't scratch up the tube with the threader-a moot point if you get ceramic. as for the scissors debate, i got some at joanns hobby shop they look exactly like the 6th finger scissors you see here only without the loop for your finger-which imo is useless. they have a lifetime warranty too. i like them because i can tie and keep them in my hand at the same time and they never leave. i think i read advice to get scissors like that from dave hughes book 30 essential trout flies. probably the best convenience in a tool i have. i would also recommend two different size hair stackers.
  13. the hackle is too long, it's obvious. however the tail is a tad long as well and really in proportion to the hackle. the wing, yes too short. i started reading this thread and i saw the proportions off and i wondered if i should say anything and then i kept reading and saw a few people tear into the tier. there is constructive criticism and destructive. i've never seen a need to tear someone down who is asking for help. that fly will fish every bit as good as one with perfect proportions. the head looks excellant, very neat and clean. that's a tough one for a lot of beginners and experienced to get right. bushy is different from tall. it's bushy from two hackles. previous poster made the point i was thinking of-this fly is a michigan creation. created with two hackles for michigan water. being from michigan i couldn't help reiterate that. i think someone maybe thinking of a wulff for out west. the adams is probably the most versatile dry to be created imo. i also carry at least a dozen in various styles sizes and feel naked without em' in the box.
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