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Red Nose Dace

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About Red Nose Dace

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  • Birthday 11/06/1952

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  1. I suspect you are right to limit this phenomena to the spawn, as it would be much more difficult to identify the sex of many, if not most, fishes, at other times. Among other factors to consider, and possibly another little fly tweak: Back in the lates '40s (I believe), a graduate student named Ray Lindemann at the University of Minnesota, developed the "trophic dynamic" relationships theory. Among other thoughts, an organism (our predator, the trout) will expend the least amount of energy possible to feed, and if capable of it, select the most calorically rewarding prey. Think about that for a moment - the female in spawning condition represents meat and bonus caviar (or an omlette, for those of you so inclined). The male, on the other hand, a pitiful source of, shall we say, hollandaise sauce! So, what about adding a rear "leg" tied downward along the bend of the hook, to simulate leaking eggs? Just a thought - and it might be pure , but the above info is true. Adios, heavy storm moving into central Minnesota and I need to go sue someone.
  2. I'm a biologist gone bad - received my first degree in biology (emphasis in limnology/freshwater acquatics) and worked on a masters in zoology. Couldn't find work (early '80s - remember Reagan) so I sold out and went to law school and became a personal injury attorney. Also a little too involved in civic duties of late (hospital board, state bar association and a lake improvement group). My wife's a certified veterinary tech - possessing (at present) a dog, cat and horse. Two kids (10 and 12 - that'll kill ya when you're 52 like I am). I have worked as a carpenter, but feel a little left-out when I see all the engineers and IT guys on this list. . . I'm happy just to see our office network up and running in the morning. Love to fish, collect and read books (old and new),fish, sail, fish, golf a little, fish, bike and maybe fish. Favorite fish (you forgot to ask that Al) - Brookies and Northern Pike (on the fly) It's Friday - if any of you see tomorrow morning, it'll be on the water!
  3. I was always taught "Bright day, bright bait - dark day, dark bait."
  4. I've still gotta say the Orange Stimulator in most parts of Minnesota where I fish - doesn't seem to matter if it's still water or a river/stream, panfish, trout or even smaller bass, it's my go to fly especially early in the morning.
  5. I voted Mustad for the same reason I'm never afraid of a Fenwick rod, a Titleist golf ball, or the Talon brand zipper on my pants - day in and day out the quality and availability is there.
  6. www.kman.com Kaufmann's Streamborn has been a great source for me, when I am unable to find something locally. I receive the stuff quickly, the quality has always been as represented, and you can call by telephone with questions (staff is very knoweldgable). Finally, I'm not sure who "Squart" is, but that picture is making me nervous!
  7. Thanks Al. The part that had me stumped was the spacing between the tail and the collar. Interesting that a fair expanse of the shank is bare, but tying the tail and the bucktail bunches to the sides of the hook makes sense in terms of the "action" of the fly when it is stripped. Hopefully the rain continues over the weekend and I'll find some vise time!
  8. I believe the last issue of Fly Tyer had a small article in which Lefty demonstrated his original Deceiver pattern - it may have been entitled "Lefty's Deceiver tied Lefty's Way" or something to that effect. I did not purhcase the magazine and have regretted it as I am planning on tying some Deceivers. The info I'm looking for is the spacing of the overlapping bunches of calf tail/bucktail - I know the first bunch is wrapped just ahead of the hackle tail, then it seems most patterns jump ahead a distance, leaving a bare hook shank for some distance, that of course cannot be seen once the next bucnh is tied on. Any thoughts on proportioning the bucktail wraps, or should I lose the perfectionist streak and experiment?
  9. I'll probably offend a few purists, but in addition to trying some of the flies suggested, you can dramatically increase takes and hook-ups if you add some scent to the fly. There are various products out there - likely the more offensive, the better.
  10. Modified, weighted (heavily) double bunny patterns, w/a mylar covering over the lead underbody, about 6-7" long for some big pike. Red/white, red/yellow and black/chartreuse. Muskie season opens in Minnesota June 4, and I'm hoping to have some line burns on my fingers by June 5!
  11. The Orange (or Yellow) Stimulator (tied Randall Kaufmann style) is without a doubt my favorite fly. It is great for prospecting and although primarily tied as a dry fly, it can be fished wet as well. Further, it can be viewed either as an imitative pattern or an attractor - I suspect it looks like a great mouthful to many fish, as they all seem to smack it with reckless abandon. Finally, it's just plain fun to tie, and to me it lokks [email protected]#n pretty!
  12. I use the Regal Bronze Base vice with both the standard head and the midge head (heads can be switched in less than a minute). Why? Absolutely superb hook holding power, great craftsmanship and durability. But beyond all that, ZERO adjustments necessary - squeeze the lever and place the hook, same to remove.
  13. I normally tie non-lead wire (bismuth, tin, etc - let's remember to be environmentally friendly (especially here in the land of the loons)) in a strip under the hook shank. I find it works as a keel to keep the fly in the proper orientation. AL's note has led me to consider placing two or so wraps of lead wire about 1/4 back from the hook-eye, and then pulling the tag end along the underside of the shank and sniping at the desired length. I believe this technique will be somewhat faster, plus the greater amount of mass forward on the hook can lead to some nice swimming action when fishing the fly.
  14. Go to www.kman.com (Kaufmann's Streamborn Inc.) or call them at 1-800-442-4359. This is Randall and Lance Kaufmann's shop and even though I live in Minnesota, over the years the majority of my permanent stuff (vise, etc.) I have obtained from them. Entire staff is knowledgeable and service is excellent.
  15. As my schedule precludes regular tying sessions, I often find myself staring a shrunken mass of Flexament Head Cement and an empty (evaporated) bottle of thinner. I've recently purchased some of the Gudebrod and Loon water based head cements, and I've also used Sally Hansen "Hard as Nails." I'm considering sticking w/the Hard as Nails product as it stores well, seems to work well and is readily and cheaply available. Would like to hear others' comments on this matter, and whether head cement is even necessary on many wet or dry flies.
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