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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by msueirro

  1. Fin-ite 34, OK, I hit the craft store today. Attached is a pic of the label for this tubing. The store is A.C. Moore. I've visited their website, but don't see an option to just order materials that are not related to a specific project. Perhaps you will have better luck. Mike
  2. Fin-ite 34, I'm afraid I no longer have the label. I will try to get by the craft store and get the name. Mike
  3. Nice looking pattern. I've found a great local source for this mylar tubing. I buy it at our local A.C. Moore craft store. In their flower arranging section they have this tubing in 15 yard (!) packages for just under $5, and it comes in an assortment of colors, including pearl. I also have it in orange, which looks like a rich gold color. I use that to tie a saltwater shrimp pattern. There is just this one size of tubing, but there's lots of it! Mike
  4. Not to take away from Marc Petitjean's revenue, but you can achieve the same effect by tieing on a piece of mesh tubing, with the opening facing forward, over the eye. Be sure to melt the edge of the tubing before you cut it so it doesn't fray on you. Then, in the same fashion as the magic head, just push the tubing back over the tie-in point and you will have the same sort of cupped spacer. Tie the remainder of this fly exactly as Dronlee has done. And by the way, Dron, I think you are an absolute artist. Your work is always amazing.
  5. I don't use the metal tips and red tip covers that come with the tubes. Instead, I just take it directly from the syringe end. There's less tendency for the ccg to keep flowing that way. I also hold the syringe in one hand with the little finger and base of the hand holding onto the plunger while the other fingers of the hand pull the tube down onto the plunger to get a bit from the tip, then either release pressure or even pull back if needed to draw the goo back into the tube. Is that at all clear? Mike
  6. Instead of trying to bend the upper eye open, why don't you just use a split ring to connect the swivel to the hook eye? Then a second split ring from swivel to willow blade. The hook is certainly long enough to deal with that additional bit of length.
  7. I like those pre-made weedless hooks, but they're both expensive and limited to a single shaped hook with little choice on hook size. I've been playing around with an idea to make a similar weed guard using wide gap worm hooks with heavy mono for the guard. This is what I have so far. I'd love to tell you how it's working, but I haven't tried them out yet. For this one I used a 1/0 Super Lock Worm Hook from Bass Pro. I've tied them with 25 lb. and 50 lb. mono for the guard. I like the 50 lb. guard better, but not having tried either of them yet, the jury is still out. The mono is just tied with black thread to the hook, then covered with thin clear cure goo. I premeasure the mono and use a hot bodkin to make a kink where it catches the hook point. Mike
  8. Sign me up for the FTF shirt in charcoal, and the Hatches Magazine shirt. Both to be in size XL. Thanks
  9. I'd like one shirt in size XL, color tangerine. My shipping address is 113 Golden Gate Dr., Pooler, GA 31322. Mike Sueirro
  10. So, what wag decided that this is also a panfish fly? This kind of silliness just pollutes species searches.
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