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About SilverCreek

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  1. I don't know why you state: "I would think this scud pattern wouldn't look correct to a fish because it would not be able to make out the overall shape of a scud pattern body." There is no reason to think that. Put the fly in a glass of water. If you can see the shape of the scud in the water, the fish can see it. Trout see just about the same colors we see except their color vision spectrum is very slightly wider than ours. For what you are describing, there would be little difference from what we see as far as color is concerned. The fish WILL see the same profile that you see. Because the lens in a trout's eye is round AND the are in water, everything is in focus to a trout. They do NOT have to change the shape of their lens as human do to focus on an object as we humans do. What trout do not see as well as us is fine detail because they do not have a macula for fine vision. Trout only see 1/14 the detail we humans see. But that is true whether they are looking at a scud fly or a real scud, so again there will be no difference in the detail that they see in the real scud or the fly. The fact that they cannot see fine detail means they have less ability to tell the difference between what is real and what is fake. The bottom line is that the scud fly will look more "real" to the trout than it looks to you, because they don't see it as well. http://www.sexyloops.com/articles/whatsalmonidssee.shtml
  2. I want to correct a misconception. To my knowledge superglue does not etch anything. Etching is what an acid does - removes part of the surface. Super glue does the opposite. It forms fumes which are deposited on the surface. That is good news because etching would weaken the line, depositing superglue on the surface would not. Have you seen the crime shows where fumed super glue brings out latent fingerprints by being fumed and reacting with invisible fingerprints on surfaces? Similarly, I'm sure what is happening is that super glue is vaporizing and depositing on the line that was sealed with the superglue in the jar. https://www.airscience.com/briefs/briefnum/42/cyanoacrylate-fuming-method "These fumes will react with the traces of amino acids, fatty acids and proteins in the latent fingerprint and the moisture in the air to produce a visible, sticky white material that forms along the ridges of the fingerprint." Gut is protein and would bond with superglue. Handling the line prior to fuming also transfered reactive material to the line.
  3. Sounds like bleaching the feather to a ginger color made it brittle. I don't know of a way to correct that.
  4. Deer and elk hair grows from autumn into winter. So the shortest hair is from deer and elk harvested at the beginning of hunting season. This is known as "early season" hair and is better for flies like comparaduns and sparkle duns. As the hair gets longer and longer, you start to get hair that is better for flies like stimulators and hoppers. Combine this with where the hair is found on the hide and you fan figure out what "cuts" of fur you want. https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/selecting-deer-hair
  5. Gary Borger's wet/dry fly is a pattern designed for the same purpose. https://www.garyborger.com/flies-and-fly-tying/the-wetdry-fly/ http://www.garyborger.com/2012/04/12/wetdry-fly-stage-4-emerger/
  6. Would you be Eric last initial H?
  7. That is not really the reason I posted them. The http://www.hatchesmagazine.com/ is a dead link. It no longer exists in the URL database. The link I listed has a way to contact the editor for information about content. Click on the "Contact Us" on the upper menu list. https://hatchesmagazine.com/magazine/about_us.php Will Mullis [email protected]
  8. These sites works: https://hatchesmagazine.com/magazine/about_us.php https://hatchesmagazine.com/magazine/
  9. Here's the problem with trying to use X-caddis hair for stimulators. An X-caddis is a caddis emerger pattern with a trailing shuck. The wing should be tied shorter than the wing on an adult caddis pattern like the elk hair caddis. Furthermore, adult caddis are NOT size 10 or even size 12. So real X caddis hair is generally not long enough to tie simulators of that size, However, prepackaged hair is often generic and NOT really sorted and packaged for the flies on the label. That is why I buy my hair from Blue Ribbon Flies in West Yellowstone, Montana. They process the hair on site and have loose pieces of hair in labeled bins that I can sort through to find exactly what I want. So examine the that you have. If it is really hair for X-caddis you will not be able to tie a size 10 Stimi but if it is generic hair that had just been labeled as hari for X-caddis, you night be able to tie the Stimies especially in the smaller sizes.
  10. If you only needed size 12-16, you could save money and buy saddles centered on size 14. It will have some some size 12 and 16 hackles When you add size 10 and 18, you will need to buy a neck. The cheapest is to buy the Prograde of Whiting or Whiting Hebert Miner brands. It is best to actually see and "grade" the hackle before buying so you know what you are getting as to quality and sizing. If you can't see the hackle "in person", you may not get the best available for the price at the shop you are buying from. The place with the greatest selection is Jims Fly Company where I buy my hackle. https://jimsflyco.com/Default.aspx There are other brands like Clearwater, Keough, Root River, Collins, Metz, etc but Whiting is what I suggest. It is the clear winner in the Hackle Throwdown Comparison.. http://www.flyfishfood.com/2014/09/hackle-comparisons.html
  11. We know the mortality rates from both events. Mortality from aerial stocking is about 2%. Mortality from C&R is about 4% (3-5%). The trout we C&R have been stressed. We would not expect the same survival rates since the events are not comparable and are fish are of a different ages.
  12. Did you keep track of refusals? I think something like a take to refusal ratio would indicate the most effective fly that day.
  13. What I use is for shuck material is actually Aunt Lydias Rug antron yarn in the gold color. See this blog: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/blog/spin-a-yarn/ "A decade ago a fistful of Aunt Lydia’s Heavy Rug Yarn, Antron flavor, would last you ten lifetimes. But don’t bother trying to find such skeins now, on auction sites or wherever, because rugs have long since gone to other cheaper fibers. Get it from J. Stockard in a less ridiculous size." Figure 1—Dear Departed Aunt Lydia Here are all my colors of Aunt Lydias Rug yarn I bought many years ago. This is the color I use for shuck material. When untwisted and splayed out it matches trailing shucks.
  14. Since you are half Ukrainian, the math says 75 proof is what you should drink. 😃
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