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Fly Tying


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About ghostdncr

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  1. Thanks, guys. This is exactly the kind of input I was looking for!
  2. I've been posting many of my fishing-related pics on my facebook page. Lots of links to sites I find interesting with an emphasis on Spey casting and classic Atlantic salmon flies, too. To check it out, click on "the764" in my signature. The pics can be accessed via my wall but you can also go directly to my photo albums. I'll also be adding classic fly reel pics (Hardy, Dingley, etc.) as they pass through my hands. Those are some incredible pictures, guys! I'm obviously gonna have to step up my game.
  3. This is currently all the gear I have for gathering specimens in and around the waters I fish, and have a bad tendency to leave the net back at the car. What equipment do you use, if any at all to gather insects stream-side for closer study at home?
  4. After deepening the vise notch and playing around with the lighting, I managed these shots. Two of a Polar Shrimp variant and one of a size 24 midge common to the Cumberland River area. The midge really should've been photographed from overhead or beneath, as it doesn't look like much at all from the side. Also, please remember these were taken with a $100 Kodak point and shoot camera so let's focus on the lighting and not the poor image quality.
  5. Charlie: These headlamps are incandescent, using the same bulb style as the small AA-size Mag-Lites. Flytire: I've already deepened the notch so the vice will sit farther inside the box. More lighting will be necessary to see a significant difference as a result of this improvement, though. Deeky: I'm planning to go with larger lights at the sides to flood the box and move the headlamps around to the front, 45 degrees overhead on each side as you recommend. I'll fabricate some type of diffuser and aim them at the fly. I'm hopeful that will be enough light!
  6. I notched the box so the vise would only go a little way inside it. I may need to deepen the notch along with the lighting upgrade, though.
  7. ghostdncr


    This is mine, focusing on Spey casting, reel repair, fly tying, and other related items: the764
  8. There's never enough light. At least that's how it seems whenever I try taking pictures of my flies. I decide to build a light box just for fly photography, and I set out to do it for around $10. I'm hopeful the following will prove useful if you're faced with a similar situation. I'm already considering improvements, though. First, find a suitable cardboard box, some duct tape, white paper, white plastic grocery sacks, and lights. I picked up these little AA-powered headlamps at Harbor Freight for $4.99 each. Using a utility knife, cut the flaps off the box and set aside: Next, cut openings in the sides of your box. This is roughly what you're trying to achieve: Cut to size and install the white paper to the remaining sides of the box. Cut the grocery bags into squares slightly larger than the openings you cut in the box's sides. I settled on using three layers, as that gave the best combination of diffusion and penetration. Secure with a piece of duct tape across one edge, then install tightly across the openings in the box's sides. Test your light source to see if you have good diffusion and plenty of brightness. I don't, but will be changing to a more powerful light later in the week. I couldn't find the lights I was looking for, so went with these as a temporary solution. I'm affixing this box semi-permanently to a shelving unit in my closet, which will serve as a photo station for fly photography. I'll attach its top to the underside of the wire shelving using heavy pipe cleaners and notching the bottom so my vise merely slides into place when I'm ready for a pic. Here it is set up and ready to use. And here's one of a size 14 Stimulator taken inside my new light box. Please overlook the obvious need for a better camera and the insufficient light offered by the headlamps. Both issues will soon be addressed. A little creativity can go a long way toward making better photographs of your flies and as you can see, it doesn't take much money or effort to construct a working light box.
  9. For stocked rainbows, I've always had really good luck with the Light Cahill dry, B!tch Creek Nymph, and Bead Head Prince nymph. While you're fishing those, look under rocks and just above the water's surface to see what creatures are there for the trout to feed on. Learn the local food chain and tie accordingly.
  10. No clue, Mr. Vegas. Served as a gentle reminder to put together a vest-pocket entomology kit for gathering specimens like this. They were too small and too quick for me to grab one bare-handed and even if I had, I doubt I could've seen sufficient detail with the naked eye to decisively identify the creature. They were snow white, #20-24 size, and were hatching with air temps in the upper 30's. Sound familiar to anyone?
  11. Today, I worked up a small dry fly to mimic the tiny white insect the trout were surface feeding on earlier this week when I fished the Cumberland River near Jamestown, KY. Shown alongside a nickel and a grain of rice, I think it's still a bit large at a #20 size. Looks like a good excuse for a new mid-flex 2-weight and a microscope, don't you think? :
  12. That's the original as I know it, Mr. Vegas. A beautiful thing, no?
  13. Mine? I aim to bring a steelhead to hand and safely release it after a photo is taken. Then write extensively about the experience and focus on landing the next one. Also, develop my tying of the classic salmon flies to a point I'm not ashamed to post pictures of my attempts.
  14. Thanks, Mr. Vegas! Here's the 4/0 version shown above the #6 I posted yesterday. I really enjoy tying this hair variant, but wonder if it wouldn't benefit from being tied a bit more sparse?
  15. No doubt this will upset a purist or three, but I can't recall ever seeing the Winter's Hope tied using all hair. Thought it worthwhile to give it a go and see what I could manage. I tied this one on a #6 Gamakatsu hook and despite the weak dye job on the orange bucktail, it turned out much as I'd envisioned. Next, I'll tie some of these on a much larger hook, probably 2/0 or thereabouts depending on what I have available. The Winter's Hope was developed by Bill McMillan of Washougal, WA and his original recipe (from his excellent book "Dry Line Steelhead") calls for a Partridge 3/0 to 6/0 standard salmon hook.
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