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Fly Tying


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About slapwater

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    brown trout
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  1. You can't find Bullard because they sold the business and closed up shop. They sold to Voodoo rod building who might be able to get you what you need. Another option is Superior Threads twist. It is trilobal polyester. It is good stuff but may have a lubricant coating which means you'd need to use CP or some other coating prior to epoxy. Their color selection is hard to beat.
  2. I like the Solarez Thin quite a bit. It covers 90% of my needs and it cures tack free and is cheap. The little tubes it comes in are terrible. You can get used to them but they are still not an ideal way to apply the stuff. I'd spend the money and get the 2oz bottle with the applicator tip. It's not as good as the applicator tips that come with the Loon stuff but it is way cheaper, less than half the price for similar sized bottles. I haven't tried it but the Loon tips may fit on the Solarez bottle. The thick is nice every once in a while but is harder to work with for me and doesn't cure tack free. The flex hasn't been particularly useful for my needs. A bottle of Solarez thin and a bottle of Loon flow are about all I need.
  3. I bought the 3-pack of solarez resins to try them out. I really don't much care for the thick or the flexible but I really like the thin. It is about the same consistency as what Silvercreek's resin has been described as, or as the normal CCG stuff and for me has cured completely tack free, unlike the thick or flex versions. You can buy a 2 oz bottle of it, which is 4 times as much as the typical 15cc bottle that other brands sell, for about $24 including shipping. $6 per 15cc is about as cheap as I've seen for any of the resins. I read good things about Silvercreek's stuff but when you include the shipping, it is not any cheaper than the Hydro and is actually more expensive than most of the other resins I've seen. At some point I might try it but with Solarez Thin costing me $6 per 15cc and Loon Flow costing me about $13 per 15cc and with both performing very well for me, I don't currently want to spend the $19 on his stuff.
  4. I bought the 3 tube set of solarez to try. The thick and flax versions do remain a little tacky but the thin cures up really nicely for me. I use about the cheapest UV light I could find on ebay. I think moving forward I'll buy the 2 oz solarez thin and stick with that. I might try the new Loon flow though, especially if I can find it locally. Just for comparison, 2 oz is about 60 cc so for $20, the solarez thin is cheap and, at least for me, cures tack free.
  5. I purchased a couple Collins capes from them a couple of years ago. I had no problems with the transaction. Shipping was fast. I wouldn't hesitate to order from them again. I would consider ordering directly from Charlie next time as I think he's got a little better selection. The only downside is that he doesn't take credit cards and it's kind of a pain to have to send him a check or money order before he sends the order.
  6. Tying big stuff is really the only time I prefer by Dynaking to my Renzetti. The notched jaws are awesome for big hooks. Certainly worth a look for tying big flies.
  7. The Peak pedestal isn't threaded at all. It fits any 3/8 inch stem. It tightens with a hex head set screw. The Renzetti website lists the traveler pedestal at 4" x 5" and almost 3 lbs. the Peak pedestal is 6" x 6" and mine weighs 6 lbs. on top of that it is $15 cheaper than the renzetti version and I like the white color a lot. It is easier to find hooks on. The extra 2" of width and weight make it awesome to tie on. I almost never use my clamp any more.
  8. I've been using a Renzetti Traveler for a couple of years now and really like it. I have tied a little bit on a Peak and a lot on a Dyna-King, both with collet jaws (although the Peak is a draw collet and the DK is a push collet). Both those vises hold the hook fine but both are way finickier to adjust and unless adjusted to pretty tight tolerances don't hold as well as the Traveler in my opinion. The one thing the Peak really has going for it is the pedestal base it comes with and the accessories that tie into that base. The white Peak base weighs more and has a much bigger footprint than the pedestal that comes with any of the other vises in that price range. My Renzetti came with a c-clamp but most of the time I prefer to tie with a pedestal so I bought the one from Peak. The combo of Renzetti vise and Peak base is awesome.
  9. If you decide to buy one, I love the Peak base. I believe it is 6 lbs and is quite a bit larger in footprint than most. It is very stable.
  10. Just another plug for the Eagle Claw L067 Billy Pate hooks. They are great for bonefish/permit sized flies and are $7 or $8 per hundred. Cheap, good hooks.
  11. I have not seen them sold that way but it is a two minute procedure with a small triangular file to sharpen a small groove on the end and works very well. I have done so to both of my tools and will never not do so again. I have never had a problem cutting myself with it.
  12. A lot depends on where you plan on fishing. Are you planning on fishing in Panguitch Lake or in some of the nearby streams? If fishing the lake, I would plan on fishing more leach patterns and streamers than dry flies. On the streams, you are not too late for hoppers. You will probably be a little early for BWOs but bring a few. Caddis will definitely be a major food source. Tan in 12-16 and black in smaller sizes will usually cover you. Try streamers for bigger browns that will be getting ready to spawn.
  13. The collar looks like estaz/cactus chenille. The cone looks like the plastic tube used to tie the body folded back over itself. I might be wrong on either.
  14. I have only tied on a Nor-vise once so I am no expert but it seems that while it does have the characteristics of a true rotary vise the differentiating factor and main selling point is in the lathe function that goes above and beyond what other rotaries offer. I personally didn't find much use for the lathe functions and will likely never own a Nor-vise. However, I love a true rotary vise for a variety of reasons. For example, I just tied a few boxes of bonefish flies. Most of them had lead or bead chain eyes tied on top of the hook shank but the rest of the fly (rubber legs, flash/fur/hair wings, etc.) tied to the underside of the fly. Turning the fly over without having to take it out of the vise jaws saved me a bunch of headache. Even for something as simple as picking out the thorax on a hairs ear it is really nice to just rotate the fly. As far as using the rotary feature to wrap materials, sometimes it is great, other times it is easier to just wrap. I never use the rotary to wrap thread or dubbed thread. I'll also usually just pass longer materials around the hood from hand to hand. But when you want to squeeze one more PMD out of the last inch or two of a particular saddle hackle, it is really nice to be able to maintain a firm grip on it with one hand while rotating the fly rather than having to pass the nub of a feather over and under from hand to hand only to lose your grip and have the whole thing come unraveled. Personal preference is key but from my perspective, my true rotary offers extra features without compromising much if anything so even if I rarely use the function it makes sense to have it available. I do find that I use it pretty regularly though.
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