KHoss

12in to match socked rainbows in cloudy water

regular old ostrich (you can find is super cheap on ebay) works perfect the fluffy fibers may look bad in the vidse, but they streamline when wet go to your shop and open the packages and inspect the feathers.... you want stiff at the base transititoning to soft Jam metioned some more expensive materials... which are awesome but don't think that you NEED to spend $$$$ to tie effective and good look patterns you mentioned arctic fox... trying spinning it in a loop like this- http://oregonflyfishingblog.com/2009/12/29/tying-shank-style-intruders/ (that link as a different style of rigging and uses some $$$ that aren't mandatory.... just look at how the AF is used)

Yeah man There is tons of info out there... Not all good Experiment and find what works for you Most important is what the fly looks like wet and in current Big profile lots of movement... With the least amount of materials

thread the stinger line throughout the front of the upturned eye of the octopus hook then the stinger-line will be in line with the hook shank personally i dont see marabou is good option for intruder style flies it doesn't keep profile in current pin out= flattens out it also cover any material under it

all those fish will catch fish.... but not really intruders... more marabou tubes and stingers - check your rigging-- Hook eye up/dumbel under/hook point up - check you hook rigging (the last 2 will cause missed hook sets) - think hollow fly tied in two stations - layer and build your materials with stiffer under softer - you want to pick materials that will hold a profile in current... marabou will just pin out

you won't spit a hook if you seat it correctly. Talk to Mike or steve at the regal booth and take a look at the revolution... you won't be dissappointed

In the US... the TSA encourages you to carry-on flies

you will be perfectly fine with rods, reels, and flies as carry ons the only issue may be a 2pc rod as it won't fit in most overheads

That veevus stuff is junk Won't lay flat and breaks way too easy Sheet 14/0 is THE BEST

Mobile interface looks great

I have a buddy in Jackson/driggs that will fit what you need. Shoot me a PM with your email

Big full fly small sparse fly

whiting grizzly midge saddle might be what you are looking for

yeah.. i'm on the "intruder style" side of the fence... it wa a particular pattern that became a style I 'm with the max movement and profile with min materials just interesting on how people classify I'm still not sure if I'll do it Tying a doz of the same intruder is not something I'd look forward to doing possible (and this may sound very asshole-ish,but thats not the intension... i only fish my own flies)

It all depends on who you ask.... some would say there are no true intruders on this thread Here is what Scott Howell says (his definition is based on rigging construction).... Intruders - shank/detached hook Retrievers - shank/attached hook on braid loop Tubes - tubes Ed Ward (his definition is based on fly/material constuction)... "a properly engineered Intruder produces a shape and movement in the water that is easily suggestive of a prawn or squid or baitfish, all at the same time, while also being more castable in relation to it's size because those effects were created through "engineering" rather than just globbing increasing bunches of material together to achieve size. The first versions of Intruders were in fact tied on large single hooks (partridge M's and N's), and it was only after experiencing unacceptable hooking injuries on fish with these types of hooks that the shank approach was devised." There are even some that will argue that an intruder is not a "style" of fly... but rather an exact pattern so without following the original specs, you have a varration or a completely different fly

Photobucket will work here the wonderline is discontinued... and has never been touted as "good performers" bad loops, non durable coating, and the floating line sinks orvis has it for 39 on their sale site... and there are always 10 or 15% cupons floating around i've bought multiple wonderlines for 10 on ebay for building lines and have even had a shop just give them away sounds like the lines are fairly old (10+yrs) not saying they won't work but there are a lot of new lines out there... tapers, coatings, construction just my honest opinion I'd be interested in the marabou + dyed and undyed hackles if you have some pictures and are looking to sell

Steve Silverio and John Collins (i think) have larger black knobs... pretty sure it is a mod they did themselves, and it not a OEM regal part

good find! not trying to be a buzzkill, but that $2,400 original retail price, is not market value today 10 or 20 for the lines 30 AND 70 for the wheatlys (depending on condition) 120-140 for the vise $120- yeah you got a GREAT deal but re-selling (based on what you posted) will get you about 500 at most unlike your friends wood table you mentioned, a lot of this stuff doesn't hold its value and "used" will really cut the value You mentioned your kids. sounds like a great starting point to get them into fly tying/fishing

Hatches

made in the USA then packaged in the USA

nice kevin here is a recent video from hatches on tying a Lady caroline http://hatchesmagazine.com/blogs/Hatches/2012/11/15/lady-caroline-by-timo-kontio/

I've see that prices are about 2x to 3x higher than the "pre-fad" prices $2 a feather for the good long schlappen $80-$90 for a full Whiting Euro-saddle a lot of suppliers still have back orders as well

I've used them all and found CCG to be the best there are a bunch of different products for different applications. someone earlier mentioned about CCG not curing tack-free, a quick his of sally hansens takes away the tackiness or they have a "tack-free" product and CCG is made in the USA

not sure why this is an issue when the material gets wet... it opens back up

tie on "ProTubes" no need for a new vise