smokymountaineer

Don't forget the Holston below Cherokee Dam and Clinch river tailwaters - by May both should be serving up some decent hatches and will offer a shot at bigger trout (or smallmouth on the lower holston) assuming the generation schedule is wadable.

You should consider how the rod will be used: Floating on high generation versus wading on low water.

If floating on high generation, I would recommend a full sinking line typically but that may be too much line for a fiberglass rod. I don't have any experience with anything other than floating lines on glass.

If wading (and given my previous thought even if floating), an intermediate line may be better suited. I really like the RIO outbound short more than other intermediates I've fished but do think it tends to run 1/2 to a full weight above the rod weight it's rated for so you may consider underlining for the fiberglass rod.

All this being said, if you get really serious about streamer fishing you may want to think about a faster action rod than glass can provide. I know they are making some pretty fast higher weight glass blanks now but I imagine it take a fair amount of coin to get into one of them. You can likely pick up a fast action graphite rod much cheaper. There are some excellent values out there from Echo, Redington, and TFO if you're not wanting to spend a ton of money.

I wish I could but already have too many commitments on the table at this time. Glad another one is up and going and will be watching from sidelines hoping to see some pictures!

I have too have used a short 15-20# "just in case" segment, it's a good idea!

I should've mentioned: I use a loop to loop connection from leader to bite tippet, precluding need for the duo-lock snaps. I like to keep a handful of favorite flies rigged with bite tippet for quick changes in the boat.

I was an unfortunate member of the first carp fly swap. As a matter of fact it was my first swap to join ever - of all the luck ; ) I'm sure the next will go smoothly and look forward to seeing the ties!

For musky I like the following:

24" 50# mono --> 24" 30/40# mono --> 18" bite guard (Either 80# fluoro or 30/40# wire bite tippet). I attach the fly using a figure 8 loop knot (100% knot strength, used for tarpon) although I know several people who use the saltwater grade duo-lock snaps for quick changes -- the snaps make me nervous.

From one of the innovators in articulated fly design:

Getting the right amount of slack out of the connection is very important in limiting fouling - this is underemphasized in many of the articulated streamer tying videos. I would also recommend using something other than Fireline to make the connection. I personally prefer 30# mono, which is plenty stiff as well as cheap and readily available. Beadalon (available from craft stores) or bite wire are favored by many others.

Nothing here in Tennessee.

Steve, I'm sorry to hear your family situation has been hectic, any update on the swap? Thanks,

Nothing in TN as of today. I getting out and after some carp tomorrow morning regardless!

Good to hear! I was fishing my pattern this weekend on a local tailwater - it was tough to get the fly in the face of eating carp because smallies couldn't stay away!

I hope Steve is ok - looks like his last activity on the forum was May 7. Does anyone know him personally or friends with him on facebook or anything?

Dropped mine off at the PO this morning - inbound and coming in hot! I have fished these in the lake with a lot of success, but really love them for the rivers due to the extra weight from both a bead and bead chain getting them down fast. I hope you all have similar luck! Steve P -- I threw in an extra fly for you - a foam diver that the smallmouth can't stay away from! Thanks for hosting!

Mine will be a variation of McTage's McLuvin

I'm in, looking forward to it!

Thanks again for help and comments! Henry, I also tried another using less bucktail and was very satisfied with the results. I clearly need to spend some more time around here picking up some of the knowledge!

You all nailed it! Having never used bucktail, I started clipping from the bottom as I do on a piece of craft fur/polar fiber. I just tied up another using the tips and it significantly reduced the flair. Thanks for the prompt and helpful advice!

Hello, I am new to tying warmwater patterns and have been working on the clouser minnow. After tying 6-7, I have noticed that compared to production tied flies, my minnows seem to have a broader spread to the bucktail when viewed from a superior/overhead perspective. I have attached side and overhead profile pictures for reference.

I have used the tips in Bob Clouser's instructional video on youtube and feel that I am replicating the steps appropriately. Specifically, when I tie each bunch of bucktail to the hook I am doing so such that it lays flat on the surface of the hook rather than spinning around and creating a "broom" as he describes. From what Bob said and from what I have read, the flat profile is pretty important to the overall look and function of the fly so I want to fix this problem before I tie up too many.

I would really appreciate any help you can provide regarding this problem, as well as any other recommendations you may have given the pictures (I apologize for the poor quality). Thanks!