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Fly Tying


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About flytiehunt

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/28/1976

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  • Location
    Taneycomo Branson, mo
  1. If you're tying big flies, select marabou all the way.
  2. I've tied on all types of vises, but for the money and functionality, the Law vise is by far the best in my opinion. law vise the cool thing about it
  3. I agree with the extension off the c-clamp. I prefer the clamp hands down because it doesn't move when you're tying. Even if you do have a heavy base, it still moves and isn't sturdy enough for my taste. Not only that, but your sitting up to high it creates a uncomfortable position to whip out dozens of flies in one sitting. If you don't tie alot, then I don't think it matters all that much. In my opinion, tying should be with no strain at all and the extension takes care of that. I also believe that it's easier to look down on the fly so you see the whole fly on both sides then having it up on the table and only really seeing the one side (unless you have a rotary). Just my two cents….
  4. It's really hard to find good deer hair. You almost have to know what to look for, and that can be difficult if you haven't messed with enough hair to know the difference. I agree, leave it up to the expert. I admire Chris Helms deer hair work and that will be the true answer in finding the correct hair. I like belly for spinning and the I have found that looking for the bigger diameter hair ties alot better and tighter, I guess what I'm saying is when you go to shape it. If it feels loose to the touch I would leave it (belly hair) alone. In most cases when I've gone to fly shops, you really have to weave through alot of packages to find a good one, that's why I would leave it up to Chris. Not only that, poor dying can ruin the hair and in some cases shrink the hide so you get shorter hair. And if you’re new to messing with hair the short hair can be a bummer. Note: When spinning, make sure you have enough hair on each side and you’re making sure you tie in the center of the hair when you go to spin. That will help the fly turn out better in the long run. Hope this helps.
  5. Good stuff, I always learn a little more when you write about photography (thanx) and like I said before, I've known about you for awhile, but never thought to find you on here. I'm glad your here and if you ever feel like joining another forum I’m sure the people on mine would love to see some of your past pictures of those fish . It would be much appreciated. Have you heard of Steve Thorton? I’m sure you have. I really like his patterns to.
  6. Thank you Peterjay and Graham, Now I have some insight on what else I need to get for this camera. I recently purchased the magic arm, but there wasn't a clamp with it. When I get the other lenses I'll post some pictures. I also got the wireless remote and the book that you were talking about "Understanding Exposure". I also bought the SLR for the macro and to enhance the pictures for my website. It's always fun to learn new things that interest you. I know in time I'll get there. I really appreciate you taking time out of your day to tell me that Graham. One day I'll shake your hand when we cross paths somewhere in the industry. Best fishes...
  7. I need some advice on what to do when it comes to macro and what settings work best when taken pictures of small flies up close. What lens etc. It seems like my canon elph 7.1 mp works better then my sony alpha A100 10.2 mp. The lenses I have right now are 18-70/ 3.5-5.6 sony, 0.5x wide angle lens macro, and bower 55-46mm macro. What else do I need to get this camera functioning the way I need it to. I also need to know what settings to use and lenses to for taken pictures of fish like graham does. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I’m lost. jh
  8. I like the looks of that!!! Nicely done. Have you had alot of luck with this?
  9. I use a dab of clear silicone Here's some pinfish and mullet. Not quite the artistic quality of the gill, but they work. This was my first attempt at using EP fibers. Since then I have reduced the material by 40-50%. I agree. Without taperizer scissors, this pattern can get the best of you. There’s two types you can buy, one is the super taperizer which is the smaller out of the two. The other one is the ultimate taperizer that has the longer blade. That seems to be the one I use more out of the two. When I start to use my taperizer on this pattern I don’t have to do much with the back as far as thinning the hair out. It usually is up at the head. You want it to be a little thicker up front so it hides the sides of the hook shank. I usually only make about three cuts and pull the excess hair out. That should be enough. As far as the eyes. I ALWAYS use marine goop. This stuff can dry out over a period of time if you don’t use it often. Make sure when you’re applying the glue it’s more of a liquid form and not pasty. If it is, then I would say you need a new tube. That’s the problem with all glues. If you don’t use them often they seem to dry out and not work the same.
  10. Thanx DD I just checked out your patterns in the database. That craw is SWEET!!! I need one those. Hopefully you'll send one my way. :-)
  11. I do that as well. Usually when I start fishing.
  12. Here's a few more pictures of baitfish I tie with the "magic head" that Mark Petitjean invented. I love playing around with these and they work like a charm. If you haven't tied with these I would give them a shot if you like fishing for warmwater species or in the salt.
  13. Thank you for the advice. Do you know a lot about cameras? I recently bought an SLR and I'm trying to learn this thing. Where to start is the question....
  14. I've never tried to use epoxy on this pattern. Where do you add epoxy on this fly?
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