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Charlie Vestal

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Everything posted by Charlie Vestal

  1. The Red Rover is a full dressed pattern from Kelson's 1895 classic "The Salmon Fly". Tag: Silver oval tinsel and yellow floss. {small or x-small size tinsel; silk floss if possible) Tail: Golden Pheasant topping. Butt: Black ostrich herl. {buy a feather duster from Wal-Mart. They have natural black ostrich in the ones they sell} Body: Magenta Berlin wool. Rib: Silver oval tinsel. {a size larger than the tag} Hackle: Yellow. {saddle hackle with a nice Christmas tree shape} Throat: Red. {something webby like schlappen} Wings: Underwing - Golden Pheasant tippet; Main wing - Peacock Secondary wing quill, dark mottled turkey, red swan or red goose or red turkey (best choice), Golden Pheasant tail. Topping: Golden Pheasant topping. Sides: Jungle Cock. Additionally you'll need a blind-eye hook (I'd suggest about a 3/0) and some silk worm gut. Check out www.classicflytying.com for lots of examples of Red Rovers. Send me your mailing address and I'll put together an instruction package and throw in some workable materials for you. Once you've mastered this pattern, you should be able to dress the following: Baker, Colonel, Helmsdale Doctor, Benchill, Sir Richard, and Gordon. Charlie Vestal
  2. I suggest that you pick a pattern that you want to start learning how to dress salmon flies and restrict your search for materials to those needed for one pattern. Don't start with a pattern that calls for some of the things in your wish list - e.g. Lady Amherst Pheasant, Scarlet Macaw Coverts, etc. Also, don't pick a Jock Scott as your starting fly. There are several relatively simple patterns calling for a minimum of materials that folks can probably help you out with. An example would be a Red Rover or a Thunder & Lightning, or one of the Irish patterns from Malone's book. Charlie Vestal
  3. Generally, two clearly visible sets of wings mean stoneflies. Charlie
  4. I voted tie my own. I fish with hand-made furled leaders. Generally I use 5X or 6X mono to make the leader. Charlie
  5. Try J. Stockhard the Forum's major sponsor. Charlie
  6. Doug, If you ever need pattern recipes don't hesitate to ask members of this forum. Somebody, somewhere will have the reference you need. Also, don't be surprised if Mike R hasn't already seen your fly. He's been known to hang out around these parts. Charlie Vestal
  7. It's a Blue Ribbon Flies, West Yellowstone, MT, pattern. Check out www.blueribbonflies.com and look for the new 2008 fly patterns. Charlie Vestal
  8. John, Great job on tying this set of flies. You must be ready for the "N" flies now. I know this question has been asked and answered before, but what style and size of hook are you using? What has been the most problematic material to obtain for these flies? Charlie Vestal
  9. Zach, I know you're a relatively new salmon fly tier and you've really bit off a big one to tie. This pattern has lots of areas of difficulty for tiers of all levels of experience. The biggest problem that I see is that Schmookler may be the only person who has dressed this pattern and, as such, none of us that lurk on this forum have experience with it. You could select a classic pattern that has some of the same features and get lots more feedback. For example, the tippet wing could be in a Durham Ranger, the oval tinsel body with veilings and butts could be from a Torrish, ..... You get the idea. Charlie Vestal
  10. As usual, I'm the odd man out. I use a 25 yr old HMH. No problems. Doesn't do everything the new vises do (I have a Rensetti for tying trout flies), but certainly works for classic streamers, steelhead and salmon patterns. The fellow next to me at the Fly Fishing Show West (Herman Boers of Holland) had a LAW that I would have stolen had not Herman been such an imposing gentleman. Charlie Vestal
  11. Big, Yep, you need the permit. You may actually need two permits - one from Fish and Game and one from Department of Agriculture. Total cost should be about $55 US. Charlie Vestal
  12. Thread that has been well waxed seems to be the secret for me. I don't mean dubbing wax, I mean fly tying wax like the 621C recipe from Marvin Nolte, Paul Little, .... The old masters always used well waxed thread because that's what held the wraps in place since they didn't have a bobbin for weight. Charlie Vestal
  13. You don't want turkey shoulder -- you want turkey tail feathers. You can use goose or swan shoulders. The last turkey I bought was $20/pair. If you're not willing or able to go that high, try some of the goose shoulder. It's not nearly as easy to work with, but definitely much cheaper and readily available. Charlie Vestal
  14. I agree with your friend. I always try to give the full name of the fly I've tied and then subtitle it "MOM style" or something like that. Charlie Vestal
  15. Check out our friends at J. Stockard. I think willowhead (Mark) just got some 3366's there. Charlie Vestal
  16. Damian, My personal preference is for the wood duck/teal side to have a curve that matches the curve in the main wing fibers. Try "humping" the side before you set one and see if you like this effect. Charlie Vestal ps package to you mailed on 1/2/08.
  17. I'd suggest that you want the top of the return loop to be exactly in-line and parallel with the hook shank or you'll have an uneven platform to mount the wing on. I always check my return eye hooks and gently bend the return with flat jaw pliers before starting a pattern. You don't want the wing to end up cocked over because the under platform isn't true. Charlie Vestal
  18. "Tying Classic Freshwater Streamers - An Illustrated Step-by-Step Guide", David Klausmeyer, The Countryman Press, Woodstock, Vermont, 2004. For example, 30 step-by-step pictures of how to tie a classic Gray Ghost streamer (Chapter 3 in the book). Charlie Vestal
  19. Marvin, who is currently chasing bonefish, dressed a limited number of these specifically for the upper management of Mustad and Partridge. I got to see #1 (I don't know who got it) and it was spectacular. Each of the original flies has a numbered certificate of authenticity on the back of the mount. Charlie Vestal
  20. The Irish Gray hackle I have is basically a grizzly dyed medium dark dun. Be happy to send a few if you PM me your address. Charlie Vestal
  21. Jim Cannon at The Blue Quill Angler in Evergreen, CO, has a pattern called the "Bunny Dun". Uses snowshoe rabbit foot hair for the wings. Really simple to tie and really effective everywhere I've fished it for the Baetis or PMD hatches. Charlie Vestal
  22. Damian, Dave the Carnster has done this and sent me the instructions plus a couple of samples. I've looked for them but haven't found them yet. When I do, I'll forward. As I recall, Dave sets the steam iron on "silk" setting, puts the crest between two sheets of paper towel and irons the fool thing. It really does (1) straighten, (2) stiffen and (3) give a cascade effect to the crest. I don't think he does this any more however. Supposedly, Paul Schmookler always ironed his crests for the flies in his books. Charlie Vestal
  23. Mark, Wet-dry sandpaper should be available at any hardware store, Home Depot, WalMart, etc. It has a fabric backing rather than paper and comes in grits from coarse (100) to extra fine (600). I cut this is a strip about 1/4" wide, put the hook in my vise and work the shank with this strip. Loop the strip over the hook, hold one end in each hand and work back and forth (kind of like polishing your shoe). Be careful because this will really remove metal faster than you think. Charlie Vestal
  24. Many times I don't even try to re-taper them. I just use what I end up with. When I do re-taper, I follow the same procedure that Royce does. I use a dremel to get straight sides (4 or more) and then a hand file and wet-dry sandpaper to get the final shape. Go slow enough to keep the hook cool, and you won't lose any of the temper. Charlie Vestal
  25. Matt Inman's secret to dressing the topping wing flies is in his selection of tying wax. My spies found the following wax on his tying desk. Charlie Vestal
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