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Fly Tying


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About ninja115

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/07/1981

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    Steelies and Reds
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  1. It really doesn't look too bad, but I would suggest these points: 1) Shorten tail to around 3/4 the hook shank(not hook length) 2) Tie it on a smaller hook(size 12-16) and down size your bead accordingly 3) Build up a "little" taper to the abdomen with the thread 4) Make abdomen a tad bit longer I'm sure it will catch fish! I think it is the hook gap of the bigger hook that throws you off. Also, try to bind down the tail so that it goes straight back and doesn't angle down(my personal preference). Although I do have some that I tie into the bend so they point down, but mostly stonefly nymphs on curved or bent shank hooks. Hope this helps!
  2. I do like it, ......but I don't think microwaving wood will dry it out(could be wrong). The only "quick" way that I have read about is soaking it in Denatured Alcohol(DNA). The Alcohol displaces the water and then evaporates the two at the same time, but still takes a bit of time. The only other ways that I know of are kiln drying and air drying(about 1 year). Where did you read/hear about the microwave process? I currently have a copy paper box full of basswood that is air drying and won't be done until july(ish). I am going to turn it, to make some poppers. I think microwaves just boil water...that's how they work. I would think you would have to microwave it for a few hours...but like I said, I really don't know. Am interested in the process if it works.....
  3. ninja115


    I tie mine on size 4, 6, and 8 Daiichi 2220, with large, medium and small silver beadchain eyes(respectively). I also do some with medium, small and x-small sunken barbell eyes to go deeper when the need arises. The picture is a little older, and I tie them much more sparse now, and also now match the thread color to the darker hair. I also found that if I didn't tie the hair down too tight it wouldn't flare out as much... I think the Mustad 3366 would work, but have never handled it so can't really say for sure. I guess it depends on what size of a baitfish you are trying to imitate. I usually go for around 3 inches long as a general rule, but that is not absolute. I'm usually chasing steel in NE Ohio, with my favorite one by far being size 6 with white belly, charteuse flash, sparse olive middle hair, blue flash, and sparse blue top hair, with bc eyes. I'll see if I can find a picture to put up... Hope that helps.
  4. Use it for Woolly Buggers and other streamers. Although, I prefer polar chenile/hackle flash. http://www.crofly.blogspot.com/ I like a lot of these streamers, especially the White Rabbit near the bottom of the page. Hope this helps!
  5. HEAD CEMENT....That's what I forgot.....might have been $4.....
  6. I would add purple also, as it is at the far end of the spectrum, and maybe orange as it is near the other end. Chartreuse should be close enough to yellow, if you wanted to drop yellow for now. ROYGBV & WHITE BLACK BROWN Pick 2-3 patterns for each species and make a list of materials that you need for each one. Buy different colors of each material. You will most likely find that a lot of the materials can be used on more than one fly. When I started tying, I did the same thing you are doing....$30 vise kit, and I had a list I made, walked into the fly shop and looked the guy in the face and said I'm spending $100 today and no more. Well, I kept a running total as I grabbed stuff, leaving a little room for taxes and ended up at $98. Left the store and realized I had forgotten an ingredient, and had to walk back in and spend $3 more. $1 over the limit is actually very good for me, and I was really excited the first time I left at $98, because I always go over budget... I would start with tying some wooly buggers to get your techniques and proportions within reason, then move on to your other patterns. Search the database by species. Poppers might put you out of you budget with paint and epoxy and turners and such, but with the species you are going for, I would probably include them if you can. I would go one surface, and one subsurface for each species if that is the case. http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=62424 http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=62044 Not exactly how I tie mine, but helps with getting proportions down: http://hatchesmagazine.com/blogs/Hatches/2011/6/2/the-copper-and-black-bugger-by-carl-e-sanders/?utm_source=FTFEmail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=11-7 There is a lot of info on this site, and more comes in daily. It can get very frustrating trying to remember it all as a beginner, so my advice is this.........KISS.......and remember...no fly recipe is definitive...there are always materials you can substitute...
  7. I see that you have to use their spools and wind the thread onto them. Do you find this to be an inconvenience? I kind of like just being able to put any thread in to my standard bobbin and go. I don't know if I would want to go through the trouble of winding 200yds of thread off one spool onto another. How long would that take me to do? It looks sweet though!
  8. Very nice fly tying video. Looks excellent for your first video. What kind/brand of bobbin are you using in the video?
  9. The "endless" Steelhead topic of where to start........ 2x fluorocarbon...4x in low clear situations. Total leader/tippet length equal to the length of your rod(9-10ft.) Indicators Split Shot Nypmhs: black stone, prince nymph, copper johns Eggs: KISS and small (charteuse, pink, peach, blue) Wooly Buggers: White, Black, Olive, Brown, Purple (BH and Non-BH) ESL: Black w/chartreuse, red, orange and pink heads I personally like a weighted(BH) fly followed by an unweighted trailer. I had a guy tell me that he only uses olive wooly buggers and hasn't found a reason to deviate from that for 20 years. Presentation is the key, over some miracle fly. I'd pick up a copy of John Nagy's book "Steelhead Guide" before any other if you are gonna do the Erie tribs. And, like its been said.........."Go to your local fly shop"....info from there is priceless! An hour there is equal to 20 hours of searching on the web.
  10. http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/digital_cameras/powershot_d10#Reviews This is going to be my new camera in a month or two. I've seen pics posted that were AWESOME! Some were half in the water and half out, and were crystal clear and focused in both enviroments simultaneously. The guy who took the pics said that they also take great videos as well. My current camera is my phone and it is horrible. lol. My mind is already made up on this one. Just need the $.
  11. Hook: Daiichi 2220 Size 8 Bead: Hareline 5/32 Tungsten Rainbow Thread: Purple 6/0 Uni Tail: Black & Purple Marabou Flash: Black Mirage Flashabou Body: Black Medium Chenile Hackle: Purple Saddle Hackle I have many variations on this one, with my next favorite being a white/chartreuse with a gold bead. When I use the rainbow bead I rotate the color that I use in the tail on top(more aesthetically pleasing for me). The combinations are endless, but mine all get the flash tied in as a lateral line. Also have a brown/orange one that looks pretty sweet.
  12. Just to clarify......$700 is what the stuff I "want" to buy would cost, not what I've spent. I estimate I've already spent $500-600 and I've only been tying for 6 months.....6 more to go...... Yes, I have FTA too(Fly Tying Addiction). We should contact someone about adding this to the list of diseases. Maybe, we could get a prescription for a cape,some rare fur, or at least hooks, and only pay a couple cents. NYtrout27....get some "Pearl Diamond Braid" and tie it in a little loop ......Pearls and Diamonds.....can't go wrong with that!
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