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Fly Tying

Gene L

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Everything posted by Gene L

  1. Damn. I thought I was in bad shape until some of you chimed in. I'm actually glad to be alive, sometimes I forget it. I'm going on 76, survived a war and have had THREE heart surgeries, 5-4-5 arteries replaced, beat the odds on that one. Still got good vision, no pain unless I foolishly try to do things my arthritis prevents me from doing easily.
  2. Arthur Ritus, that is. Arthritis is in both hands and robbing my ability (what little I have) and robbing me of desire. So far, while I can't close my left hand completely, my fingers are workable. Doctor's appointment in MARCH!!! for Chrissake. Don't want this to be a poor, poor, pitiful me thread. I can still tie some.
  3. In my lame attempts, I have tried all methods. A pinch loop is the best so far, really pinch the thread so you get it on top and pull downward, but evenly and tightly but not a death pull. I'm also using now white turkey quills and they work, but a bit coarse and the pair I have don't seem to be matched. Goose quills aren't from migratory birds, they're from commercial birds.
  4. They give me trouble...one side always seems to un-marry when tying them down. As a result, I don't tie them very well or often, so maybe it's just a form that needs practice. On another related note, I've been trying to tie a quill wing Royal Coachman, and used up my ragged white goose quill pair. I was astounded when re-ordering to find that almost no supplier has White goose quill feathers. Plenty of colored ones, but white is on backorder from at least three stores. Can anyone 'splain this shortage? I finally found a source but they limited me to two pair, which should last me for a long time unless I continue to waste slips.
  5. The HMH rod is SS, but is more than a simple rod. The business end is narrowed from both sides to fit into the head of the vise. I couldn't imagine making one by filing, it's a pretty tight fit. I've got a cluttered room for tying, and since I'm disorganized, I have materials all over and which defy my attempts at organizing them. As for vise height, about 4" or so above my navel. I guess. It's the standard pedestal height for my HMH vise. My travel vise also HMH Standard is a C-clamp with a long stem. I actually like a C Clamp as it gives me a lot of variety and is very secure when clamped down on a table or a desk. I figure vise height is largely personal. I've seen a few who appear to work at belly button level, some who like the vise at eye level, or slightly below. That would tire me out, but not them.
  6. This is my kit. Not all that portable, kinda heavy. Holds my vise and a whole lot of components. Also has a fold down table that holds the vise.
  7. Here's mine. It's the second model and I tie steamers on it.
  8. A hair wing is what makes a Wulff a Wulff. If a synthetic is used, it ain't a Wulff, regardless of how well it works.
  9. Gene L

    New Vise

    I have owned a few true rotary vises and own one now as my main vise, but I almost never use the rotary function to tie a fly. My fly tying buddy finds this amazing; he uses his Traveler to place and wrap components. I should, I guess. He says it allows for more precise placement, but I can't get used to it. My travel vise is a HMH Standard.
  10. I like kip for Wulff wings. Calf body hair is almost universally recommended as first choice, but the stuff I get is too short. It's finer (I think) than Kip, but still...I don't think whitetail tail will work because it's too coarse, but Wulff probably used it.
  11. Sadly, Tony Spezio passed last Thursday.
  12. Fly tying and dubbing wax caused me to look around for the stuff I made, but it's gone. I have a tube of Overton's dubbing wax and use it more often. It's inconvenient to keep removing the cap each time I use it and then replace the cap so the wax doesn't get polluted. And it takes two hands. So I glued the cap to my desk with superglue so the tube sits upright. Now I can just twist the tube, use the wax, and replace it without using both hands. It's easy to break it loose if you want to, I've removed the tube twice, once on a wooden desk top, once on a formica top. I also glued a bottle of SHAN to my desk top and that's good too, although you have to twist it shut so it doesn't dry out. If you carefully plan where to put these items so they're handy but out of the way otherwise, can be handy.
  13. The darker the wax, the more rosin is in it. The stuff I made was dark, but not black. At first making, I didn't put any olive oil in it and it was too hard. Second time, I put too much oil in it and it was too sticky. There is a recipe for cobbler's wax but it's in a volume no tier could ever need.
  14. I said earlier I used Shoe Goo, but I was mistaken. What I used is "Goop". It's clear and toluene (dry cleaning fluid?) will thin it out. I've got a tube of it, unopened, and I don't plan to open it ever. Got enough stuff on my desk already. Apparently, it's no longer made.
  15. I always called a cape a neck. The Benchside Reference is excellent. Just about everything to do with fly tying is in there.
  16. It's kind of a hassle; you have to melt in in a container in a can in water in a double boiler. A disposable cup-like container is good because you won't be able to clean it all out. And the rosin, have to have a source for it and maybe pound it into small grains, although some rosin bags are already finely ground. If you have a formula it might be worth it for a lark, but I don't have a formula and don't know where one would get one. Otherwise, it's trial and error, mostly error on my part. Too stiff and then not quite stiff enough. Sticky...it stuck in the push-up tube, another hassle.
  17. Made some of that, too. Not for fly tying, though. Rosin has to be softened as it will dry hard as a rock...like rosin for a violin bow. Again, beeswax, rosin, olive oil. Come to think of it, I believe that's what I made that I mentioned above. For archery. I got rosin from a pitcher's bag (baseball.) It was way too hard to be useful, an attempt at "Cobbler's wax." I remixed it with more, a bit too much, oil and it's now VERY sticky. It would probably work for dubbing, but it tends to transfer to my fingers when dubbing. I put it in a push-up container. I use Overton's for dubbing, soft and works fine.
  18. I always thought waxing thread made it a little slicker, initially, allowing you to tighten up the whip finish. I don't typically use it except for dubbing...makes the fibers stick to the thread. I made some with beeswax and olive oil, does OK. You can make it any consistency by adding either ingredient to your initial mix.
  19. Wrap forward, not toward the hook bend.
  20. If you mean lead wire, probably better to wrap the hook first with thread. Not much better, though. Keeps the lead wire from twisting on the hook shaft. Not entirely necessary.
  21. There are plenty of videos that will do nicely at this time of Covid. First thing is to get a good pattern book, or at least what I'd recommend. Some have basic instructions and material info as well. And welcome to the board. Don't expect this to be the cheapest hobby in the world, but you can save yourself some money and enjoy the experience of catching a trout on a fly you tied. Some nymph patterns are fairly easy to tie and deadly effective.
  22. Aussie toilets do not flush in the opposite direction. If they did, they'd unflush the poop. Very nasty.
  23. Doesn't seem to be possible. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+it's+made+regal+fly+tying+vise&docid=607993534609230316&mid=2C0D4A9E388D66DC71922C0D4A9E388D66DC7192&view=detail&FORM=VIRE
  24. A Regal Revolution isn't a true rotary vise? It's expensive! To answer your question, I believe no, won't work. I may be wrong, though, but it seems like putting a six cylinder flathead in a Corvette. ALL American made vises have a 3/8" stem, so your base is fine, it's the connection that seems problematical to me.
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