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Fly Tying

Matt B

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  • Location
    Foothill of the Catskills, N.Y.
  1. Black size 10 or 12 gold beadhead with gold flash in the tail. I go white with a grizzly hackle when the water is stained.👍
  2. I take a large number of trout on this pattern I tie. Tiemco 100 size 12 - 16 Furled antron tail into body/post 1 ginger hackle 1 cream hackle
  3. I used to tie off behind the eye, but could never do it without catching some hackle fibers. My tying Jedi Master kinda barked at me and asked why I didn't tie off on the post, told him "Because you never showed me". I was amazed when I saw him do it. 1. Tie on the tail 2. Tie on the parachute, make a nice post with thread, take thread back to tail 3. Dub up to the post 4. Tie on your hackle, with enough stem stripped to run up the post 5. Finish the dub in front of the post working back towards the post 6. Tie the hackle up the post, then bring the thread back down to the base of the post crowding the body 7. (this is were he shocked me) take the fly out of the vise with bobbin still attached, Turn the fly so the eye faces down and tail is straight up, re clamp in vise ( I normally hang the thread and bobbin toward the back of the vise in the spring or over the lock for the rotation) 8. Now your set up to wrap the hackle on the post like a normal dressed dry when it's in the vise in this position. Wrap the hackle down the post crowding the body.Pick your thread up and bring it around to catch the hackle, secure it, clip the excess hackle, and throw a whip finish on it, and your done. Very clean and easy. Don't know if I explained it correctly, but the key is repositioning the half finished fly in the vise before you wrap the hackle.
  4. If I'm goin sub surface for the Lil'mouths I'm using this pattern. I see there are a few pics of patterns already up like it. If they are taking topwater I'll go with a size 4 popper or this bad boy I tye on a size 4 dry fly hook If I have to go deep in a area with some current I tye this Hellgramite pattern
  5. I just need to update. This fly was OUTSTANDING!!! this season. I was able to raise fish when none were feeding. I can say without a doubt, it was the one pattern that could consistently take fish. At one point at the end of Aug and all of Sept they would savage a size 16 with just ginger hackle.
  6. I target carp on occasion. This one fell to my 6wt. They do put up a great fight.
  7. I haven't wet a line in trout water since the end of last season. I took a largemouth on this very same fly pattern last week. My home water is the Neversink. You can find me in season, humpin way into the Neversink gorge. I love it in there. Fishing can be difficult, but very rewarding do to all the browns, bows, and brookies in the gorge being wild. I can testify, you can tell the difference by the coloration. I'll normally fish the closer put and take rivers in early April, but It's hard to stay away from the Sink. Especially since it's only 20 min from my house.......ohhh poor me. I just fawn over the fact it was the home waters of Gordon, LeBranch, Hewitt, and of course Sparse Grey Hackle aka Alfred Miller. Unfortunately most of the water those gentlemen fished are all gone, and 50 to 60 feet below the Neversink Reservoir. Nothing like taking the best land and water around here for that hell hole of a city 60 miles to the south. The history I've read talks about the small country towns like Neversink Village, and Bradley being leveled and flooded. I truly wish I could have seen the river unmolested by man. That's part of the reason I stay in the gorge. The hike in can be treacherous, the fishing difficult and technical, but there are no roads, no cars, no cell service, and as I recall over 4,000 acres of protected state land. I've found it also keeps the meat fisherman away, do to catch and release only laws in the gorge. If you come as far down as The Beaverkill, you might want to plan on staying in the car a little longer and stopping by the fabled Neversink. Cheers,
  8. I'm tellin you fellas, don't be caught without this pattern in your box. I like the burnt orange look, Shoebop. She'll take fish.
  9. Thanks guys, I had a good teacher. He'd say to me "Matthew! your either gonna be a fly tier or just a guy who ties flies!! Whats it gonna be?" As to the question about presentation. I haven't really found a way of presenting this fly that doesn't take fish. You do really have to let the fish tell you how they want it, but here's how i do it. This fly will sink slowly with the bead chain eye's, but if I'm fishing a deep spot I start with one size BB split shot 6 to 12" above the fly, so you still get that natural movement. Short strips and pauses for smallies, and trout. Dead drift with a little movement every once and a while for pan fish, and stop action movement for carp. Carp like it right on the bottom. As for colors. I've tied it in olive chenille, and black pearl. The olive is definitely a better choice for Largemouth, I'll even throw some silly legs on it to make it look more like a creature bait. Bottom line is the chartreuse seems to be the all around best. I don't know why, but it is. Maybe that would be different on the waters you fish. Cheers
  10. I've actually given that some thought, and I'm of the mind that trout tend to see whats right instead of whats wrong if that makes sense. I think if the size and color are right coupled with the great segmentation look of the furled antron the missing tail fibers shouldn't mean much. Plus, with the furled tail curving up towards the sky like a real mayfly, it would make it hard for them to see two lil creamy fibers anyway. My wife tells me I'm insane for even spending time thinking about stuff like that, but people who don't tye just don't get it. Good catch on that, thought i was gonna sneak one by you guys.
  11. thanks fellas, I'm gonna be doing a pattern dump as I get time. Feel free to check out the ones I've already posted around the forum, Extended antron body cream cahill, chartreuse grub, and hydro caddis larva. Cheers, Matt
  12. I'm posting this pattern here because it is neither a cold or warm water pattern. I've seen similar patterns, one of which I think was a Lefty Kreh, tyed with silly legs and such. This is the one pattern I would never leave home without. It was originally given to me as a smallmouth pattern from my fly tying Sensei , but I found that it works on every species of fish I've presented it too. Just to give an idea, I've caught smallmouth, largemouth, perch, white bass, rock bass, crappie, rainbow and brown trout, bluegills, pickerel, and of course monster carp love this fly. If you don't have this in your box..... stop what your doing and run to your bench and bang a couple out. It's also a great pattern to show a beginner. Very easy!!! Hook - size 4 thru 12 curved nymph hook Tail - white marabou with some gold flash Body - fluorescent chartreuse med. chenille Weight - bead chain eyes Thread - yellow or chartreuse
  13. I've been playing with antron and furling bodies to do some may fly patterns. Nothing new here, Ken Hanley's book on furled flies will tell you everything you need to know. I tye and tend to fish a lot of parachutes here in the Catskills. I really believe the trout prefer them over the old standard catskill dressed duns. I see a lot more cream cahills then I do the standard darker cahills. The later the season the lighter they get. The only thing I do different from fly to fly is with the hackle. Earlier in the season I tye and fish the pattern with a cream and ginger hackle to give it just a little darker color (as pictured in photo). Later in the season I lose the ginger hackle and really lighten it up with just the cream. Here's the recipe. Hook - 12 thru 16 dry fly hook Body - furled cream antron, with a little super fine cahill dubbing to blend it into the hook, when tied on. Parachute post - tag end of the furled antron, waste not want not Hackle - Early Season 6 or 7 wraps of cream 4 or 5 wraps of ginger, Late season 6 or 7 wraps of cream only
  14. I started tying this fly a couple seasons ago for smallmouth surface feeding near current rising like trout. It is not a popper although I have worked it for largemouth like that. For smallies, and the original idea was a skater. The long hackle helps immensely, I drift it through current then as the water slows, pick the rod tip up an skate or hop it along back towards you. I've seen deer hair poppers as bee patterns, but I've never seen one like this, so I'd like to take claim for it, but maybe I'm wrong, and somebody else has done this. You guys tell me. On to the tying part. It's straight forward. If you can spin dear hair you can tye this and also see it's not colored black with a marker. I alternate colors, using smaller clumps for the black bands. Now, what I've found is probably pretty obvious to you guys. I stop spinning far from the eye of the hook. Whip finish and cut off. Do all your shaping then tye back on with black thread. This is important... Go for the Hackle, then when it comes to the wing I use a cello wing material. It can be difficult to get a set of good usable looking wings. I normally use a wing burner to get a good shape. When you tye them on you need to know that soon after catching some ill mannered smallmouth you will have to replace these. I hate it but, bottom line is the material gets shredded. A couple time a season I use a razor blade to cut the thread and replace the wings and hackle. I've tried other material for wings, hackle tips you name it's been done, but none of them looked as cool. So a little maintenance is worth it. Hook - size 4 dry fly mustad, use pliers to put a slight curve in it Body - deer hair from the belly, yellow and black alternate Hackle - brown, sized bigger than hook Wing - cello wing, burned to shape
  15. I go old school, and use beach. It tends to work great.I've never really had a problem with quills getting to brittle. My bigger problem is getting eyes that have the good segmentation to the quills, and long enough that there is plenty usable on a single quill. Also stole the wife's clear coat nail polish for the coat afterwards. works good, normally do 2 or 3 coats.
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