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Fly Tying

Johnwvan

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Everything posted by Johnwvan

  1. Uni Thread 8/0. The only way to"fly"---
  2. Started out with a Thompson A, then moved on to a "Regal look alike" Gorilla non true rotary and just purchased a Peak rotary with brass bolt upgrades. Should be here in a few days.---John
  3. Is the Griffin rotary whip finisher as good as the Matarelli rotary whip finisher? They look exactly alike. Why is the Matarelli more? Name?---John
  4. Thanks!!! All here have been a great help!---John
  5. Thats what the wedge shape is for. Different sizes and proportions as per the length and girth of the abdomen and thoractical area. I have studied entomology as long as I have been fly fishing and am well aware of the length and gape sizes of hooks per various sizes. One size fits all is for "blue light specials". Thank you for pointing this out, I can use all the help I can get.---John
  6. Thanks for the links. I tried the tapered method too. Off to find some white foam for Hex hatch.---John
  7. Thanks, I tried the first gent from Scotlands method and I used 2mm cut to 2mm wide for a 2mm square pc. He used 3-4mmbut mine looks plenty wide.---John
  8. I have a sheet of yellow foam about 2mm thick. How wide do I cut to use for mayfly extended bodys or can't I? The last one I tied was a #10 Paradrake using elk hair.---Thanks---John
  9. I had that frustration for years. I don't use strike indicators that much, just watch the end of my line for subtle takes or change in direction. I also have changed from using standard nymphs to bead head and it seems I have more strikes. I am guessing it's getting me deeper or maybe they are attracted to the shine of the bead? I also have been trying droppers, say a #14 nymph with a #18 or #20 Brassie or Midge Larva and have had good luck usually hitting on the smaller fly. HTH---John
  10. I bought some chartruse deer years ago and finally came up with something to try it on. I was tying Humpys so I thought I would use my artistic license. If nothing else I won't need an indicator to see where it is. It's tied on a #12 94840 with an olive body. Now to see what it produces.---John
  11. Hello, new here. Nice site. I started out with a Thompson A that came in a tying kit from Dan Baileys. I then wanted a rotary and bought a "knock off" rotary which was not a true rotary, a Gorilla. I am now either going with a Peak or Griffin Odyssey true rotary. I want a c-clamp to adjust height. The pedestal seems to put stress on my back reaching up. I didn't notice, does the Peak c-clamp have a height adjustment?---John
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