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steelprince

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About steelprince

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/25/1978

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    Eugene, OR
  1. Just a couple wet flies I tied featuring Baikal feathers (flank, body and wing) and mottled turkey wing. IMO, these are quite big, on a 7970 size 6. I tied a nymph too, but pic didn't turn out. Plus, nymphs really don't fit in this forum. -steelprince
  2. Yeah Ronn, I took your advice for lacquering the head a while ago and let the cement thicken first. Problem was that I like to use a thin layer first to soak into the thread wraps. Normally not a problem with Danville 6/0 or benecchi thread but on UTC not so good. It doesn't soak fast. What I don't get is how to keep the head small with a thick cement. Perhaps mine is too thick. As for the extra space behind the eye I recall you suggesting that some space behind the loop eye on classic styles gives the fly a better look (closer to the blind eye look, I guess). At any rate I've taken that into consideration but I always get beside my self and leave too much space. Ok, well, waaay too much space. Flounder, mounting small slips of tippet in strands is rather easy and it looks good after being tied in. Meaning no separation of barbs, looking like a whole feather mounted. If you look close you can see that tippet at its tie in point comes out the butt stacked nicely. The problem I have is keeping it that way when tying in and wrapping the rest of the body. Keep the comments coming. All help is appreciated. -steelprince
  3. Thought I'd try a "classic" pattern in efforts to attempt to get my tying on par with the greats that post on this forum. Substituted purple for blue throat cause didn't like the look of blue schlappen, plus in vervekas book looks almost purple. I still got head troubles when lacquering off. Some bled into wing and to keep a good shape I have to keep adding lacquer. About 50-60 percent of head is lacquer. Pics not great but oh welll. Notice a few problems? Critiques welcome. Question: When tying tippet in strands, does anyone know a good approach to protecting them from splitting after they are tied in? Mine, as a veil went in good, but as I continued on with the pattern, they split every which ways and back. -steelprince
  4. Thought I'd like to tie an artistic classic style fly with a vulturine elver. I was trying to get like a Black Dog style, I guess. Tail's a bit long trying to give the fly the length I was hoping for. The fleck on the tag isn't split floss but some errant material that landed. Hope you like -steelprince
  5. Letumgo, Hook is a E. Sealey 1762.B size 5. Picked 'em up off Ebay for cheap. 5.50 w/SH for 100. Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. Much appreciated. -steelprince
  6. The only material that's tied off in the tail area is the tag which was flat wrapped forward throughout body. I tied the crest tail in at the front of body and used tinsel to bind it down. What I can't figure out is the transition from the tag to the body. Mine's not smooth enough--i don't like the height difference. How do I counter that?
  7. Tried my hand at this pattern I saw while browsing through reareandunusal website looking for another pattern. Seemed simple enough. Tag is horrendous. Any tips on how to handle floss tag and tinsel body without a butt. I tied in an tail wrapped back and then forward. My tag looks frail and is quite lumpy. Throat hackle is v.guinea as I sub it for regular guinea all the time. The feathers barbs fade at their roots near the butt of the stem so it further adds to the out-of-focusness of the picture. More to grow more to learn. -steelprince
  8. Trying to make use of more of the Baikal feathers. Usually don't use jc nails but I broke down and bought a pack of feathers--which doesn't quite cut it. Underwing is muskox fur. It seems that muskox has 3 layers of fur, I used the second layer. I set the body pretty far forward to make sure that the barring on the wood duck was visible and to compensate for the short wing feather in relation to the hook. The shoulder is a black impeyan feather which I hope to make more use of in the future. Pictures not quite in focus but the other's I took in better focus washed out the golden yellow of the jc nail. The idea of the design was to have the flow of the feather sweep from head to tail. Hence the yellow and white of the jc and the yellow and white of the woodduck. The complimentary color of the wing and the body help to balance the fly and compensate for proportions. At least I think so. -steelprince
  9. The above is my first attempt. It originally featured a tail of amherst crest but I felt that it was too long. I show it because the body hackle is how I wanted it to be. The Wing looks odd because it is tied in at and angle in relation to the top of the hook shank. This one has an amherst tail. But the hackel and the body fell short of how I wanted them to look. First I forgot to tie in the hackle and then I kept breaking the hackle feathers. I kept having to unwrap the dubbed body and rewrap with a new hackle. Laquering heads is not my strong suit as evident in the first fly so the second only has head cement. -steelprince
  10. Just bought a bunch of turkey tail feathers from him. Shipping was actually very fast via priority mail. I was not very satisfied with the quality of the tails, about 1/3 were utterly useless for spey, dee, you name it. He is however, sending replacement tails. Hopefully, they will be of better quality--I'll keep you posted. I cannot say that he is a bad seller, but I did expect better. As with all purchases caveat emptor. I know I get a little too enthusiastic sometimes. My expectation was however based on his feedback and the nature of his business, classic salmonfly materials. -steelprince
  11. A lot of stuff I bought because it seemed like everybody else had it. Some of it because tying gave me a great appreciation for the intricate differences between species--meaning colors, textures, shape, etc. Still others were bought because I wanted it--it just looked cool. I think that a great deal of my materials were purchased because I saw it in a pattern that I was enamored with. Many of the materials that I have purchased are more than I'll ever need, full skins of "rare" birds--like Baikal Teal. My thought process? The cost I'm paying per feather is way less than what I'll pay if I buy pairs individually. I'd rather pay more short term than a whole bunch if i decide that I like a feather. The buying of whole capes is for the purpose of a variety of sizes. The purpose of buying multiples of the same kind of a cape is because you a lot of a variet of sizes. Dependent on the type of waterfowl--even with common species--the type of feathers you want are not available in the quantity use use and feathers (even from the same species, different birds) have different characteristics [i.e., curvature, shape, quill thickness, barb length, etc.]. There are a host of reasons why one would horde feathers. I just bought a white-eared pheasant, so I could dye feathers in a multitude of colors. i bought a bunch of white goose shoulders for the same reason. As I begin to process the pheasant pelt, I thought to myself, there is no way I would use all these feathers. At any rate turkey comes I a myriad of colors, and white turkey tails are difficult to find in good quality and quantity so why not horde?
  12. 1. When the wing is tied on top of the shank how do you accomodate for sides and cheeks? More often than not there is too much space between teh wing and the shank for me to get proper placement of sides and cheeks without the materials flexing out. I'm sure the choice of materials has something to do with it. I use goose for my wings which is thinner than let's say turkey tail. 2. Ostrich herl. Okay, so I wanna be a great tyer like many of you here on this forum. So I've succumb to the idea that I should use herl with the smallest barbules possible. Now I'm a cheapskate- I don't want to put down whatever the cost herl is, as I've got plenty of "the other stuff" (BTW-still no jungle cock cape although I did buy a pack --disappointing quality for the price). At any rate, I trim my herl to get "the look." is that as bad as trimming wings? -steelprince
  13. Fishigan, While I'm a novice, to say the least, it appears that your wing is tied in upside down. In my experience (probably from something I've read) to get a more pronounced hump at the tie-in point you preshape the feathers. This done at two points. The first is at the butt of the wing to get the profile you desire in relation to the tail. The second is at the actual tie-in point. Here you grasp the wing sections just behind the tie-in point and pull down on the section in front of your fingers. Another method that works, sometimes, is to shape the wing tips only and tie them in using the soft-loop method. There are two requirements mandatory for satisfactory wing placement. First you must be prepared to tie the wing in slightly longer than normally. A good gauge is touching the tail and slightly pusing it out of place. The second requirement is that the loop (in your soft loop) needs to be placed behind the tie-in point and held between two fingers of your free hand while holding the wing on the shank. With the thread around both sides of the wing bring it under the shank and straight up --perpendicular to the shank-- and tighten. The wing should hump forward as the thread is tightened. If the hump is not as full as you would like to see, then firmly grasp the wing tips and the hump and gently pull up and foward on the humped area. These tips have worked form me on most occassions. For all the pro's out there- correct me if I'm wrong.
  14. Letumgo, Great work in use of the Baikal feathers. I don't know which strikes me more the winging or the body work. Each makes the other pop out. The color contrast and the sleekness of the composition are eye catching. For mounting Baikal as wings I use two methods. 1. Side mounting wings and tenting them over an underwing. Underwing helps prevent collapse. 2. Lots of stem crimping and flattening to top mount. I use a schlappen or similar texture feather to create a short "beard" atop the hook to help counter the natural curvature of the feathers. -steelprince
  15. So, I was at my bench today and poured a hook out of a storage container. When I looed in my hane there was a little bug in it. Kinda catepillar-ish. I don't know if it's a problem and I been researching looking for pics of bugs, but no luck. Anybody know the different types of bugs tiers have problems with? I'm concerned but not too concerned cause the bug couldhave been in my hook drawer, but I don't really know where it came form. I do know this: I've gotta go through my materials and re-up my mothballs. So twop questions: 1. What are the types of bugs we have problems with? 2. How often do you who use mothballs replenish? thanks
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