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Fly Tying

switch10

core_group_3
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Everything posted by switch10

  1. I have one Rite bobbin. I rarely use it, so I won't be buying another. I prefer to control the thread tension with the palm of my hand. I find it easier, and much quicker than adjusting the screw, and counting clicks. That said, the Rite feels a bit smoother than a standard bobbin, but at 3 times the price, it's not worth it for me. I'd rather have 3 bobbins permanently threaded.
  2. I usually tie a dozen or so of one pattern at a time. I only take out the materials that I need. Get a pegboard for behind your desk for those little packages of saddle hackle, marabou, peacock herl etc. It will take 2 seconds to put each material back in it's bag, and on it's peg. Compare that to the time it takes to dig through a bunch of materials you don't need, to find the one you do need. Another option, if you prefer to have your materials loose like that is to buy a (or several) small plastic containers to store your materials without the packaging. At least that will contain the mess to the inside of a container and not all over your work space.
  3. switch10

    Video

    Just some standard clear-drying waterproof silicone from the hardware store. No slick here.. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rfpOGn68edE/UnkY48ORDjI/AAAAAAAAIf8/JHuIwf6e7eE/w426-h320/13+-+1
  4. switch10

    Video

    I tried this last night, and it works great! They float like a cork.
  5. Be careful, Loon also sells a UV resin designed specifically for flies (it's the exact same stuff) in a larger bottle, for a larger price.
  6. I buy all my tungsten beads from this guy: http://stores.ebay.com/theflysite/ Excellent quality, free shipping, 12 colors, all sizes, .12 cents/bead.
  7. I use Loon's UV knot sense ($7.00/bottle), with a UV flashlight I found on EBay (under $10). I haven't tried the more expensive options because knot sense cures fast, clear, and relatively tack-free (2 minutes in the sun, or under a black light removes any tackiness), it's by far the cheapest option I have found as well. I pretty much only use epoxy on the heads of bait fish these days, but all I use is 5 minute clear epoxy from the hardware store.
  8. I don't think you are asking to see too much. My magnifier is a life saver on small flies, and I tie better looking flies overall using it. I wouldn't tie without it these days. Trying one out is the only way you will know if it will work for you.
  9. I have the $21.99 one from Ebay, and it has done it's job for over a year.
  10. I don't know if I catch more fish because of UV resin, but my midges are definitely more durable with UV resin than without.
  11. My favorite is the daiichi 1140 midge hook sizes 18-22. I also use tmc 2487/2457's, and once in a while tmc 200r's. I have a few larger lake midge patterns that I tie on the tmc 2499spbl in size #8-12. Your midges look great, and will definitely catch fish. I like to tie mine as thinly as possible, and not far down the hook bend if at all.
  12. Gimp is free, and you can replace a green (or any) background in a snap. Here's a link: http://www.ehow.com/how_8311735_edit-green-screen-pictures-gimp.html
  13. Try a proxy server like this one: http://hidemyass.com/ Click on advanced, and choose a server located in the U.S. It will look like you are in the U.S. from Amazon's end. It's definitely worth a shot.
  14. Those are some pretty impressive flies Corey! Those will all definitely catch fish. That last one looks just like a Pyramid lake tadpole. People catch 30+" Lahontan cutthroat on those all the time.
  15. Zap a gap is just super glue/CA glue. I've used the gorilla glue brand super glue in the past, and it works fine. Try to find a super glue that comes with a fine applicator tip, or apply the glue to your bodkin or needle, and let it roll down to the tip and then drop it on the foam. It takes practice, but you'll get it. Just remember that a little goes a long way.
  16. Mine are in the mail! I included an opal x-caddis for everyone as well.
  17. It might be even easier for you to make a split thread dubbing loop. Just untwist your thread so it's flat, then split your thread in 2 with a needle or bodkin and put your dubbing inside just like with a standard dubbing loop. When you are finished, spin your bobbin clockwise (from above) to lock the dubbing in place. This works with any type of thread that will lay flat. For smaller thread like 8/0 uni-thread, try rotating the vise just slightly so you can rest the thread just behind the hook point. It is much easier to catch and split the thread this way.
  18. The only time I use fluro is when midging still water. It seems like when the fly is just suspended there, not moving at all, the fish have more time to check it out. A local guy spent a while under water filming trout eating natural midges and midge imitations in this lake near me. He found significantly more fish rejecting the same midge using mono vs. fluro. Kind of off-topic, but he also noticed more fish rejecting midges with the classic "J" shape (natural and artificial) as opposed to midges that were just straight (tied just on the shank of the hook, not down the bend at all). I thought that was pretty interesting.
  19. I agree with everything said. In addition, get a hook sharpener/honer. It really does seem to improve hook-ups. I have one made by Tiemco, and I use it almost obsessively. The hook point should make a decent scratch in your thumbnail with very little pressure when properly sharpened.
  20. I fish with quite a few different combos. I have to say though, I really have had luck mid-winter trailing a WD-40 or an RS2 behind bead headed baetis nymphs like a small tungsten psycho, or a crystal hunchback baetis.
  21. Allen hooks are great, the barbless styles especially. I've ordered at least a thousand hooks over the past year or so. Free shipping (hooks and beads), and the best prices I've ever seen for the quality of their products. I own one of their reels as well (a trout 2), and I love it!
  22. Nice! I tie on an old computer desk as well. I set the bench that I built on top of it. I re-purposed the slide out keyboard tray thing as the spot to keep all my most commonly used tools, and walking materials. When not in use, I push the tray in and it really makes it look much cleaner. It works great!
  23. I use very small pliers with smooth jaws. I found these near the automotive department in Kmart. The hook is a size #26 for comparison. I crimp the barb by putting the jaws over the hook barb (perpendicular to the hook shank), putting pressure on the barb, and then rotating the hook in either direction. This removes the barb pretty cleanly. It does remove the coating that protects the hook from rusting in that spot though. I buy only barbless hooks whenever possible. Barbless hooks are harder to find in smaller sizes, and they tend to be more expensive due to the manufacturing process.
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