Jump to content
Fly Tying

DryFlies4Life

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DryFlies4Life

  1. Not sure about the stream specific regulations on the vedder or the harrison , but the rules tend to preety relaxed about terminal tackle and all that here in B.C. Just no dropper flies, not that you would want to use one for coho. As for patterns rolled muddlers are a local favorite. Subbing in marabou for a wing, and adding krystal flash makes for an intresting variation. Its worth noting that coho are like water magpies. If its bright and shiny and moving past there face, they cant seem to resist putting it in there mouth .
  2. If you use a whipfinishing tool at can be useful; place on hook around the bottom of the dubbing loop and you can easily now spin the loop using the easy spinning of the tool. Hard to explain but easy to figure out.
  3. Im not framiliar with shrimp patterns but your shrimp with the palmered hackle looked good. Just keep working on it and adding improments like some thin skin laid across the trimmed hackle and a counter rib through the hackle and over the thin skin for segmentation. You prety much had the basic shrimp profile on that fly, from there you can build it up.
  4. If your intrested in steelhead and salmon Roderick Haig Brown wrote some great books. Expect more of a novel/story then how to/ 101 type books.
  5. Looks like you got a really good deal. A grade 3 cape and saddle would ost around 75$+ at most local and online shops I visit.
  6. Hackle stems have a natrual taper. The farther into the pamler the smaller the diameter of the hackle. By tying in at the tips you you create a taper from front to back. While this dosent genrally matter in extreme cases (i.e long pamlered hackle, or very short hackle) it does have an effect on how the fly sits on the water and the profile of the fly when veiwed from underneath. This problem could simply be fixed by tying in the hackle from tip rather then the butt, however some tyers have problems doing that, and if a fish cuts the stem then the hackle is done. By tying in hackle at the front and rib in the back, we can get get a proper taper and the added strength of wire. It only take 10 seconds, if that, to tie in a rib and another 10 seconds to wrap it around. For the strength it adds thats not a big sacrafice. Ive had the hackles destroyed on too many stimulators to not use a rib. As for tying rib and hackle at the back we end up back at the first problem, unless your tying in the hackle from the tip.
  7. October caddis can be an awesome hatch if the fish pay attention. Big elk hair caddis and improved sofa pillow are always in my boxes during the fall.
  8. I just crimp mine in the vise. I dont tie smaller then #18 so size isnt an issue. I also dont use expensive vises so i dont worry about damaging the vise. Barbless hooks can be more expensive then those with so i just by barbed hooks and crimp them, I dont worry about rust becuase the fish is more important then the longevity of your fly in my opinion.
  9. Since your still struggling I'll chime in. Before I embarass myself I know absolutly nothing about dubbing garmet fur. Ive always used pre blends or synthetics. Judjing by the photo is looks like theres alot of under fir on the garmet, and as a whole it looks like a difficult fur to dub. So heres a tip to trygrab the fur bu its ends and trim the fur low right at the hide. Still holding the ends gently pull at the trimmed end. Smaller finer fur that should be eiser to dub will pull out of the longer hair.
  10. If your using a fly rod and a fly you are fly fishing, in my opinion. 'to ban all nymphs, nymph systems and streamers which cannot be cast by using multiple overhead false casts on an average distance of 15 m' seems like an incredibly unnatural way of doing things as it would be difficult to manage this as a law, as all using suspicious tackle would need to be taken to an open area and tested. As well casting ability and technique could allow for some to cast gear that distance, but less skilled may not. A sort of standard could be applied although rather difficult. In my opinion the best way to ban these sorts of 'forbidden techniques' would be to ban all terminal tackle including strike indicators, weights, swivels and droppers. and if you really want to push it add maximum fly weight restrictions.
  11. From my understanding the creek flows into sort of pond? Right? The riffle flowing in looks to be shallow, probably less then a foot deep. The riffle flows into the pond over a quick sudden drop off. While the water is deep, the only current can be found on the surface where the riffle flows in. All the food coming over the drop of will be right on the surface, regardless of nymphs, dries or minnows. fish will sit just below the current and look up, feeding on anything that comes over the edge. Toss a dry into the riffle and let it drift out over drop off the. Fish should take it right away, if nothing, move the fly about 2 feet over. The fish should be in feeding lies, and therefore have tunnel vision, taking only whats presented directly in front of them. because the food is shallow. nymphs or drys shouldn't matter as long as the pattern is a relevant imitation to food sources nearby.
  12. On Vancouver Island, canada. Daily limit for wild trout/char from streams is 0. Most people I think dont even read the regulations, the just grab some worms and go fishin', then they catch something and take it home to eat it, completley unaware of limits and restrictions. It also dosent help that notice boards and posters that are up to date are almost non exsistant on most rivers. On my home river, the puntledge, notice boards can be found throughout the forest, but the boards are probably 20 years old and the regulations are completley out of date.
  13. Missing a strike or losing a good fish after a good fight is dissapointing, but dosent get me to upset. Losing a fish within the first five seconds however happens way to much and does upset me, especilly when its a big fish that I know no will be spooked. Also, bait fishermen that keep there catch. Bait is ileagal here, as is keeping your catch, but it happens all the time on my local rivers.
  14. Took this beautiful rainbow on a size 8 Stonefly nymph, a little late for that, but he ate it right up. This one took a size 10 stimulator. Really cool watch him rise as i caught him in slack water, a rare occurrence on my local rivers.
  15. I remember spending hours reading the trout fishermens bible from front to back then back to front. I learned alot from that book. I got the book when i was seven or so from an old neighbour who was very a very good fly fisherman. He needed to get rid of his books because he had to many so he threw them all out his second story bedroom window and told me I could take all the books i wanted. I came home with quite a few fishing books many i still have today. Unfortunatley my neighbour passwd away a few years ago to cancer, but I still have much of his fishing books and rock collection.
  16. It seems unless the fish are really onto a hatch they dont really care, as for dry flys dont be afraid to try tying some up. My best catching dryflys where messes on deer hair and hackle with a hook through them.
  17. heres another good video, pretty awesome water and looks like they fight like crazy.
  18. Thats been a problem for a while, however throughout the fashion craze most tiers could still find hackle, especially very common hackle like grizzly. If you really want to get some grizzly im sure there's a shop around you somewhere that carrys grizzly hackle, some have even been mentioned earlier.
  19. Neither cape will make an adams. Both capes can however be used to make a number of flys that catch fish. Try just ting a generic dry fly with the hackle you have, it will probably catch something.
  20. I agree with everthing here. For those saying that you can't do "everthing" your probably right, although you can do alot. I have 3 different lines; a level floating, and 2 Double Taper Floaters. I do ocasstionaly use one of the doulble tapers but its terrible quality, and the other double taper sits in a box always. So I usually use the level floating. If I want a weight forward or sinking I have a 7' length of super heavy sinking line that I attach it to the end of the floating with a mono nail knot. Between the level line and the weighted section I could fish most situations I would come across. Sure other lines could be more effeicient, but other lines cost money. I also I have 3 rods, a dragonfly that is snapped in half, a really cheap Berkeley safari that is very beat up, and a fenwick. Only the fenwick ever sees use. I only have 1 reel and it dosent even have cartridges. It's just a cheap graphite reel I have had since I started fishing. I am perfectly productive, and often out fish other anglers. It's not about the gear you have, but how you use it.
  21. There are mats of this material that is similar to felt that you can by a craft stores. When you pull at the sheets you will end up with little fibres that are like a cross between Antron and superfine dubbing. It dubs tight and is good for dry flies.
  22. 5 weight flies- bloodworm pattern (bloodworms are found in almost everybody of freshwater) a very buggy hares ear nymph (imitates lots of things, fresh and salt) tie down minnow, imitates many different minnows (if fish are present, there will be little ones around) 9 weight flies- Wolly bugger (is there a fish that won't eat this?) Moslers 3d plush sculpin (imitates large sculpins, fresh and salt, imitates many bottom dwelling fish Felt crab (a salt only fly, but crabs are everywhere in salt water and fish eat them) Extra item - large tarp (provides shade and cover from rain) Book- survival guide (self explanatory) Survival isn't my worry, but seeing as fish = food I need an arsenal I can take any where. Small and large streamers like the tie down minnow and Moslers sculpin are sure to tempt larger meat eating fish found in every region of the world. With all the places in the world I'm not optimistic about finding trout, but bloodworms, hares ear nymph and streamers should tempt them, aswell as other insect eating fish around the world, living in muddy, clean, tropical and temperate waters. Salt water I'm targeting the open water sport fish, but rather the more stationary bottom dewelling species (flounder, rockfish, cod) using streamers, and crab imitations, and the hares ear may even pass as a small shrimp for smaller species.
  23. Nymphing I vast tatic and techniques vary depending on gear, fish, region and stream. It would be impossible to tell you what you should do with out actually knowing anything about the streams you plan to fish. However, by learning how to use a strike indicator, learning how to highstick and learning how to euro nymph you should be able to cover a wide variety of situations. There is lots of information on the Internet about these techniques, I suggest locating a few sites and learning more. You will also probably learn some other useful techniques as well.
  24. I understand this is old from way back in 2004, but is there any hope this may get fixed? I keep getting this: Warning: include() [function.include]: Failed opening 'sources/special/hatch_chart.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/lib/php:/usr/local/lib/php:/home/willmull/public_html/ips_kernel/') in /home/willmull/public_html/sources/special.php on line 83 Whenever I try and open it. I've tried different computers to with no avil
×
×
  • Create New...