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Fly Tying

andy.larkin

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About andy.larkin

  • Rank
    Bait Fisherman
  • Birthday 07/06/1986

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Rainbow Trout, Searun Cutthroat Trout, Steelhead
  • Security
    22

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vancouver Island, Canada
  1. Here is the latest installment in a series of pattern's tied by John Kent, his Army Truck chironomid pupa. There are far too many awesome techniques outlined in this video. Enjoy!
  2. John Kent did a tying demo at Robinson's Outdoors in Victoria, British Columbia this past weekend. For those who are unfamiliar with him, he managed Tunkwa Lake resort and is in my opinion one of the most innovative chironomid and stillwater tyers this side of the border. Here is the first (of several) installments of patterns tied up by John. I encourage you all to click the video and watch in 720p for the quality is much better than available in the preview mode. Thanks for looking, and please feel free to subscribe to our channel or facebook page for further updates and more media that will be popping up in the days to come.
  3. This being said as well, if you cannot track down senyos laser dub, the uv pearl ice dubs work well as a substitute. I avoid using natural materials such as hares ear for the rib as you don't get that nice translucent appearence under water that i believe really adds to the fishiness of the fly. Experiment with other colour combinations and different underbodies as well to match your local caddis flies.
  4. What colors combinations and sizes do you fish for trout? I'd appreciate it. For trout Clear v-rib, tan laser dub Clear v-rib, white laser dub Chartreuse v-rib, white or tan laser dub Amber v-rib, white laser dub I tie them using medium v-rib for most 10-12, large for 8's, and small/midge for 14-16, but for the most part i stick with the 10-12's. They work well on curved caddis hooks also (Hanak H300 specifically, go down a size if using tiemco or mustad c49's i.e. hanak size 10 = mustad size 8), but if you can get your hands on the Hanak H450BL jig hook, the open gape and shape accomodates these flies absolutely awesome.
  5. Thanks for the kind words, folks. I've uploaded the pattern to the database. The link is: http://www.flytyingforum.com/pattern13499.html should you wish to bookmark. Andy Larkin
  6. This is my first post on FTF, and definitely will not be my last. I thought I would share a favorite spring trout pattern "step by step" to start things off. This is an extremely productive attractor pattern, tied using a blend of synthetics that when wet give it an absolutely irresistible fishiness in the water. I've been having a serious love affair the past few years with Senyo's Laser dub as it's semi translucent iridescence and overall versatility for everything from small nymphs to big model airplane sized steelhead and pike flies cannot be beat! The collar on this pattern, consisting of CDC and SLF squirrel dubbing gives the fly some added movement making it incredibly active in the water. Andy's Edible Arrangement Hook: Hanak H450 (or 400) Size 10-12 Bead: 4mm Tungsten Thread: UTC 140 Fl. White (I do tie these with Fl. Orange as well for hot spot collars..) Body: Medium Amber V-Rib Underbody: Medium Mirage opal tinsel/flashabou Rib: White Senyo's Laser Dub, trimmed in dubbing loop Thorax: Black CDC and SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbing Place a size 10 Hanak Competition H450BL jig hook with 4mm slotted tungsten bead in your vice, starting the tying thread just behind the bead. Make evenly spaced wraps towards the bend, and create a dubbing loop. Tie the loop down, allowing it to hang off the back and return your tying thread to the front of the fly. (line your last thread wrap covering the loop up with the eye of the hook). Tie in a length of Medium AMBER Vinyl Ribbing, flat side down (be sure to leave about 1/4 inch behind the bead for the thorax. Next, tie in some Mirrage tinsel. I do this by tying it in by the tip at the front, doing open wraps to the rear of the fly with the tinsel, then once again back to the front in even wraps to create a nice uniform underbody. Wrap your V-rib body now forward, tying it off at the original tie in point (ensure the flat side stays down!) Next, select a clump of white Senyo's Laser Dub. Using your fingers, pull the fibers to even them out. Cut your clump of nicely evenly spaced dubbing into 1/3 to 1/2 inch lengths and place them in the dubbing loop. Space them evenly (and sparsely), then using your dubbing hook, twist the loop to create a dubbing rope. Now, wrap the dubbing rope forward allowing it to sink into each of the segments of the vinyl ribbing and give it a brush out with your dubbing teaser to loosen any stray fibers. Next (we're almost there..), select a CDC feather. I really like the Petit Jean select CDC feathers for this.. Cut about a 1 inch length of stem + fibers (from the middle of the feather) with long, even fibers and place itto the side. Split your tying thread using a dress pin or dubbing hook. Place the 1 inch length of CDC feather in the split thread, as well as some SLF Spikey Squirrel Dubbing (Sparsely, allowing the fibers to be distributed evenly beneath it.). Trim the stem leaving only the fibers in the split thread loop. Now pinch your thread beneath the dubbing in your left hand and give your bobbin a quick spin. Holding the thread at a 90 degree angle, perpendicular to the hook bend will allow the bobbin to spin much nicer and the thread to twist much better. Pinch the tying thread just above the tip of your bobbin and slide your fingers up. This will cause the rest of the turns you've created by spinning the bobbin to be forward, locking everything in place nicely. Now, stroke the CDC fibers back on the tying thread so they are facing towards the bend of the hook and begin wrapping your collar/thorax up to the bead. Tie off using a quick 3-4 turn whip finish, and give the thorax (and abdomen) a quick tease using a bodkin or soft dubbing teaser. Now, drop the pattern into a cup of water and realize how this wet profile image does not do the fly any justice! (ha ha..)
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