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rotaryflytyingdotcom

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  1. I'd go with your guess on each. Mystery fur remains a mystery 🙂 That "Deer Mask" is money for Compara-duns - snout and around the eyes.
  2. Grouse (Partridge if you're from Maine), hen backs, Ring Neck Pheasant skins (male and female) are all good sources that won't set you back a lot of money. Don't forget to look on the wings of any of those birds - the feathers may look too small but you only want one or two wraps out of the feather.
  3. Polypropylene not Polyester is not only water resistant it has a positive buoyancy. Check out Fly-Rite Company. 48-colors I used to use the 48-color packet for most of my dries. However, I've found most any dubbing will float if you treat it with Gink - even wool.
  4. Shoebop, that picture looks like Snowshoe Hare to me. But in answer to your question here's a quote from Fran Betters book FLY FISHING - FLY TYING and PATTERN GUIDE. "When I developed the pattern, it was with the use of the snowshoe rabbit's pad but I'm sure that any rabbit's foot would do as well, whether it be a cottontail or even one of the many domestic brands." END QUOTE But my personal experience tells me Snowshoe Hare works better than any other rabbit's foot I've tried. One material Fran Betters suggested as a substitute is Woodchuck. Again I quote. "The golden underfur from the woodchuck is also ideal to use as a substitute; first clip off guard hairs so hair is even underneath. Use a small bunch of this golden tan hair in same manner as rabbit's pad hair. If you desire to make a dark usual pattern use the base fur next to the woodchuck's body. This fur is dark chocolate brown and when this is used to make the tail and wing of the Usual, mix the blond and chocolate brown fur together to form dubbing. Makes a very productive caddis imitation and most unusual Usual." END QUOTE
  5. 1hook there are a couple of things you can try. 1) When you tie the Spade hackle tailing material onto the hook make an extra wrap or two of tying thread - under the tail material instead of over it. Pull the wraps in tight under the tailing material and that will cause the 1/2 dozen or so fibers to splay out into a fan shape. You can even run you thumbnail up under the tail fiber and push against the fibers to splay them more. The spread fibers will support the hook better than a single clump of fibers. 2) Make your tails longer than normal. Most dry fly guides call for a tail length equal to the hook shank. Make your tails longer, say, one and one-half the shank length. If you're going to cheat anywhere to get a better floating fly there is no place better to cheat than at the tail of the fly. Remember the guides are just that - guides. There are drawbacks to over-hackling or making wings too long but little to no drawback to a longer tail. What little drawback there might be is easily offset by the increased buoyancy you gain.
  6. SpokaneDude, A #1 skin should have a feather range down to size 20. There should be a number of 16 and 18 – quite a few more than the 20's which always seem scarce to me. It should arrive clean and the skin shouldn't be so dry it cracks when you bend it. The size of the birds should be good and the bird fully developed. Color contrast for the light and dark barring on the feathers should be distinct. And finally, there should be fair amount of the mottled brown barred feather on the shoulder of the wing and lower back. If you aren't satisfied with the skin I'd quickly call or email to start the return process. Don't delay. Oh, one other thing to remember is that we have grown used to farm and pen raised bird skins. Most partridge skins are bagged during hunting season. You have to really search for a truly "pretty and fluffy" partridge skin.
  7. Robo7, Sorry I wasn't very clear. When I said 8X smelt patterns I meant 8X long imitations of the baitfish called smelt - as in Gray Ghost or Blue Smelt streamer patterns. I tie both of those and use both for Landlocked Salmon which is a fairly hard fighting fish. The long shank hasn't been an issue.
  8. Robo7 - I tie smelt patterns on 8X long shanks and don't think they are a disadvantage or that I lose many fish because of shank length. If a fish is hooked in the lip there is no "fulcrum" point to create leverage. Unless the fish jumps opens it mouth and the hook shank crosses the mouth allowing the mid-shank section of the hook to rest in the opposite corner of the fish's mouth there is no leverage. I like the long shank hook for streamers and think long skinny patterns bring me more hookups - if I lose an occasional fish to the long odds that the hook gets crosswise in a fish's mouth so be it.
  9. Check out this post by Don Bastian. http://donbastianwetflies.com/2013/11/13/rubber-cementing-streamer-wings/
  10. Jd1983 - here's a chart that might help you. Scroll down a bit and you'll see Eye Balz, Super Eyes and Prepainted Eyes - all are Clouser Eyes and reading across you'll find the eye size - the hook it fits (for normal use) and the sink rate. Hope that helps.
  11. Mike - Do you plan to tie the leader directly to that or are you going to use the new FishSkull articulated shanks to attach to the spearpoint hook?
  12. Wow, you must have to be very accurate with your casting to get a hook-up with that spear-point. I did a search trying to find some and on E-bay they had an assortment but I’m not sure they are the same hook you used. Then I found a place to order online from a wholesaler. If you want the link for future hooks it is www.rukiddingme.com/hooks/spearpoint.
  13. Chaznc, I’ve got a Rotary Vise (sold by Universal Vise) that was purchased about 1966. It is an “axis rotating” (True Rotary) vise. The idea was good but the implementation – not so hot. The jaws were hard to use and tying tails in was difficult because the horizontal shaft impeded access to the bend of the hook. Rotary started to kick into gear in the 80’s when Andy Renzetti came up with the idea of a bent shaft (the common design today for True Rotary which he patented), which allowed good access to the rear of the hook along with other improvements. People saw the advantages of the new design and the popularity of rotary tying grew. However, as you’ve noticed, not all vise rotary action is the same. That led to the development of the term “True Rotary” when referring to an “axis rotating” vise. The big difference between the two rotary types is that with “True Rotary” you can wrap materials by rotating the vise and you can roll the hook over bringing the backside of the hook to the front. Both types will allow you to easily view the backside of the hook to check alignment and matching of feathers (shoulders, Jungle Cock eyes). Norvise is one design that stayed with a horizontal shaft and you might want to check them out. You may find the $150.00 for a “True Rotary” vise a limiting factor. However, if you’re not looking for a 100% metal vise you might want to look at Danvise and certainly the others mentioned above.
  14. As stated vernille is "plush" when compared to chenille. It appears more tightly packed and the diameter is more consistent. However, the more important feature to me is the the core of most chenille is cotton thread and the core of vernille is some sort of plastic thread. That becomes important when tying San Juan Worms or Poopah Caddis patterns. Both patterns call for melting the material so the exposed ends don't unravel. The chenille cotton core burns rather than melting.
  15. Nice - love the body taper. Love mallard wings but when I finish mine don't look that good :-(
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