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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by bighornbuster

  1. Here are a couple of pics of my current tying area. Let me know what you all think.
  2. Try some camel dubbing, orange thread and a light dun soft hackle. Tie it without any weight and make sure to use the orange thread. Should work quite well.
  3. Let's face it, Charlie Craven ties everything pretty damn good. I am pretty sure John Barr spends some time in his shop and likely he learned it from the original tyer.
  4. Once again, a video that is rich in technique and demonstrative of a great western fly pattern. I wonder if there is an easier wing fiber to use the blends together more easily, like polar aire or Puglisi fibres, etc. Or maybe a small wire brush would shorten the time it takes to get the wing right. Just some ideas for you. I will say that I always learn something from your videos. Thanks.
  5. If you want a cheap source of fibbets, try the makeup counter at your wife's( or girlfriends) favorite department store. The brushes they use come in different shades and there are samplers. Also a great excuse to start a conversation with a cute saleslady. If you can get the sampler it is a lifetime supply of the material.
  6. Thanks again for a nice demonstration of working with a really good material.
  7. Another of many fine videos. Question--Do you ever use a small piece of lead wire to hold materials like the rubber legs out of the way? It sure would make tying the last part of the fly a little quicker. Then you could pull it off and use it to start the next one.
  8. In the riffle is a good one as is Hammer Creek( see all of those on this forum), and also Parks Fly shop in Gardiner Montana has their tyers doing some good ones.
  9. 16s and 18s. In the rubberlegs version 14s and 12s. Have fun
  10. Another exercise in efficiency. Well done. I must confess, however, that the ease of a Kaufmann.s Simulator still works for me.
  11. While I agree that the personal experience of flytyre at Blue Ribbon Flies was likely accurate( they are pretty impressed with themselves), they also have the best specialty hollow hair selections anywhere. It should be since they have the choice of more hides than just about anyone right out the back door. Like to put in a plug for the Slide Inn a little down the road also. Their selection of Premo( their spelling) deer hair strips in lots of colors is the best spinning hair on the market!
  12. You obviously have potential. My first attempt got scraped off with a razor blade so my dad could reuse the hook. Try Hammer Creek Fishing or Charlie's Fly Box for a ton of really instructional tying videos. Good luck!
  13. I haven't fished that pattern since the 70s. As usual, you made some durability improvements to the fly. I will have to try it again. I don't even know if it is an attractor or a specific imitation. Thanks for another instructive video.
  14. The video was quite instructive. I suspect that the slit cut in the foam helps with the way it lands by lowering the center of gravity a little. The heavy leader idea is also good as hoppers tend to twist leaders badly. The best thing about the video was the making of the wing. I would never have thought of that !
  15. I suspect those scuds will work just fine. You obviously have the technique down. You might want to try some holographic tinsel, krystal flash or flashabou for the back. Usually where scuds occur, they are there in abundance. I think it helps if your fly stands out from the crown, so to speak. I personally prefer about five strands of rainbow krystal flash.
  16. I just like the fact that you are thinking of your son while you are doing this. He is a lucky kid and will likely become( if he is not already) your best fishing buddy. Stain the bench however you want.
  17. I will send you an email in the morning. No scanner at home. I'll send the pliers page also since it is on the next page.
  18. If you look a little closer on the Slide Inn site they also offer all of the materials for these flies. Their deer hair patches are excellent quality. If you call them, you can probably get most any other information you might need. You might even get Kelly himself.
  19. I happen to have a 1965 Herter's catalog and there is a base to the wing maker. It's original cost was $3.95 with 2 combs and additional combs( 4 other sizes) were $.35 each. The Model 31 Winging Pliers were $.53 cents. I, like you, was fortunate enough to have a Dad who got a lot of fly tying stuff from Herter's and kept it. Now I have it even though my Dad is still tying. The '65 catalog is not a reproduction. Thanks for sharing the memories!
  20. Dwight D. Eisenhower's favorite fly also. I wonder if you have any trouble with the tail and wings shedding when fishing the fly. I used to have this issue( although I use calf tail instead of calf body hair) but was able to cure it with a coat of head cement applied to the tied on hair prior to adding herl and hackle. Just a thought. As usual, a great tie and a subtle demonstration of the efficacy of a rotary vise to the tying of split wing flies. Thanks!!!
  21. If you leave that fly near that cork for long it might give you another.
  22. I had a Thompson A which worked fine until I splurged on a Regal. I still use it to this day. The hook spitting thing is actually kind of exciting from time to time and is ALWAYS attributable to operator error. I used a Danvise for a while and just ordered a Peak. Does anyone remember the Herter's 11R. That was a rotary vise on steroids.
  23. once again a nice twist on an old standby. These things used to take up three quarters of Dan Bailey's Fly Shop in Livingston. The original version used a mottled oak turkey flat for tail and wing and also only used a single piece tied on with the pinch. See Jack Dennis' Western Fly Tying Manual Vol. 1. They also used gold tinsel. This is just commentary however because your techniques simplify what used to be a challenging fly and allow it to be produced more quickly and consistently. I was kind of partial to the pinch tied wing and its curve when tied properly however. Keep up the good work.
  24. My theory on this is h\that if my flies are any good at all they will either be broken off in some trout's jaw or relegated to the fish chewed version section of the box long before a few half hitches will fail. I do agree, however, that a whip finished fly is a little prettier.
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