Jump to content
Fly Tying

Glennie

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Glennie

  • Rank
    Bait Fisherman

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    RBT
  • Security
    22
  1. I hate going to the grocery store now because I find myself more drawn the potential fly tying implication of the packaging holding the product than the product itself. I have dozens of Ziploc bags stuffed with thin strips cut from candy bar wrappers, chip bags, cookie packaging...none of which has done much for my girth but have given me lots of ideas for use in flies. I clip open the bags and spray them with a household cleaner to clean them up and then using a stainless steel ruler and an exacto knife cut them into thin strips using a smooth 12 x 12 inch tile as my cutting surface. I can cut thicknesses for use as body material, ribbing, shellbacks or wing cases. Some of the colours are just not available anywhere from suppliers. I tie a lot of chironomid patterns so tend to look for shades of olive green, bright green, silver, black, grey and brown. Some of the stuff has a nice reflective quality too that when put to a hook gives terrific results. The next time you're shopping for groceries just cruise through the chip and candy section and open your eyes to all the potential and you'll see what I mean.
  2. Some interesting choices but as I'm dreaming I say "go big or stay home." 1.) Payne River Quebec for Arctic char 2.) Nordura River Iceland for Atlantic salmon 3.) Miramichi River New Brunswick for Atlantic salmon 4.) Dean River British Columbia for steelhead 5.) Babine River British Columbia for steelhead
  3. Magpie might be worth trying or Jackdaw wings. Check ebay for both.
  4. I couldn't help but notice that when I go to larger fly fishing suppliers, the quality of the flies and the selection seems to be going down fast. About 15 years ago, a partner of mine and I were sourcing out feathers and flies and starting to wholesale to stores. It was turning into something but some health issues with my partner and a breakdown in his personal life brought it to an end. We were getting flies from two tying houses, one in Sri Lanka and another in Nigeria. The flies were good quality and the Nigerian supplier was very accommodating in supplying us with flies for our local market based on our samples and advice. The cost to us for the Nigerian product was about 60 cents a fly for the most expensive and about 48 cents for chironomids depending on if a bead was in the pattern. The Sri Lankan supplier had good flies but they had something about them that just made them look plain. That same look now is prevailing in the fly selection at the larger stores. Not that consistency isn't a good thing but everything seems to have a look to it that's hard to put into words. On the other hand the small store near my home relies on many local tyers to supply his fly trays. The patterns look like something that will actually work and you would want to use. If a person wants a nice mayfly nymph a GRHE from Cabelas will probably do. But when I see a pattern tied by a local and presented because it works for our local waters, why do I want to use it or copy it? It just gives me more confidence that it will actually work. To those who don't tie this should be an incentive to seek out smaller stores. Not only do they need the business but if they are getting some locals to tie for them, the flies just may work better than the patent patterns you see at the larger store. Ideally though, start tying your own. Join a club and make some friends who tie because most of us have acquired enough materials for several lifetimes and can help you get started.
  5. I have bought materials through the mail a number of times and I think most of the time I was less than satisfied. It's one thing to buy body materials, thread, tinsel and that sort of stuff because it's all the same. If you get a better deal on UTC wire from one seller than that's great. But when it comes to buying feathers, no two packs of hackle, no two capes, no two skins are alike. You will get what ever the person filling your order has that's next to come off the shelf. Even when I go to a store, if I see some nice olive dyed guinea I will look at all of the ones that are hanging on the hook and choose the best for my needs. If you are paying hard earned money for your hobby you can afford to choose the best. About the only thing I buy mail order for feathers is dyed peacock from a lady on ebay because I know her product and have purchased from her previously and never have been disappointed. Also as was mentioned earlier, with the rise of mega-stores in the business the smaller operators certainly need our support. I am lucky to have a pretty good store only a five minute walk from my house. I could drive an hour for a better deal but why? I would rather support him than someone who owns stock in a mega-store.
  6. Grouse. Ruffed, Blue, Franklin's (AKA Spruce), Sharptail and if you're lucky to find it Sage. Find someone in the west who hunts. Chick survival is very dependent on a dry spring but grouse can be very plentiful some years and are often the main course at dinner. There's also various species of quail that have tiny feathers for soft hackled wets. Whole skins and loose feathers are available through most dealers or you can find them on ebay.
  7. There's a few products available that will help you in getting your fly on your tippet but won't tie the knot for you. They sell for about ten bucks or less. Do a Google search for the 20/20 magnetic fly threader. It seems to be one of the best. I use a Duncan loop to tie my flies on and think it's easier than an improved clinch knot. I also have a problem as I get older with my eye sight too so I keep a pair of cheap reading glasses on a string round my neck and put them on when I need them.
  8. Used on some traditional wet fly patterns and also tied on alone or with other materials in small baitfish patterns. Also found as hackle on some spey flies often along with another feather as a compliment which gives the entire package a speckled look like you might see in a shrimp. Sometimes the feather can have a fairly thick shaft so if using as a hackle strip one side and tie it in by the tip. Consider the curve of the feather and set it to the hook so that you can take advantage of this natural characteristic when you start your wrap. If you take the time to determine how it will wrap it will be to your advantage. Otherwise you can end up fighting the feather and not getting the finished product that you were hoping for. Nice score! YOu will always find a use for these.
  9. Glennie

    thread

    I have about sixty assorted threads that are not purposely made for tying but are often relied on for ribbing or for making chironomid bodies. Visit a good store that sells cross-stich supplies. There's a lot of threads that impart some flash into the way they are made that have all sorts of applications in a variety of patterns that will work. I'm not advocating that there's a better mouse trap but there's a lot of stuff to be found outside the fly shop that can be used to tie. Fine wire will never be seen in recipes for old traditional patterns but at some point tyers started to use it and now no one would not have an assortment in their kit.
×
×
  • Create New...