Jump to content
Fly Tying

hacklewrap01

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About hacklewrap01

  • Rank
    Bait Fisherman
  1. Guess I have a little to offer, here- since I used to milk up to 450 cows daily, meaning chapped from fingers to elbows, and am a fingerstyle guitarist, meaning calluses on all fingers, all the time, and am married to a tender-skinned classical violinist- Ask most any pharmacy for plain, hydrous lanolin. 2 or 3 dollars will buy a year's worth. Sand off what you have to, use small amounts and rub in well. This is what makes most retail preparations work, but is much better in a pure form. For effective, cheap and convenient, nothing else is even close.
  2. Size is the real criterion- as an "eavesdropper" who ties for my own use (even after 30 plus years and having taught some others), I'm having a ball swiping from the beautiful patterns you guys post, downsizing to #12-#18, and fishing high country streams for brookies and cutts. I have to follow general line, proportion and color without getting too detailed, but they make really effective wet flies and are really fun to use. From full-dress European salmon flies to early American brookie flies was both size and simplicity, and still is. By the way- really admire all your work, and thanks for keeping the grand traditions going!
  3. I've got some chickens in the smoker, a new batch in the fermenter, plenty ammo loaded, and it's about to rain, so: for a travel tying kit, take the big 3-ring binder that wasn't cool enough for the kids this year, and punch holes in various zip-lock bags to organize materials...can hold a BUNCH of stuff, and lets you tie anyplace if you use a pedestal vise. Some of those binders with pen-pockets, etc., can even take basic tool kit. Used to teach classes weekly in changing locations, and this was the answer. If you don't have a tying area, these on bookshelves are great. On your tying bench, try a sheet of the shelf-lining stuff that's kind of "non-skid" and tacky... great way to keep fluffy stuff from migrating; makes Mama happier. The non-slip padding for under area rugs also works.
  4. I THINK I put one in the photo gallery, under misc. photos. Just take the spool/cutter assembly out of the box, cut plastic discs to fit spool shaft, glue them on, spool material, reassemble. The one in pic is from my waist pack and carries tippet, has rubber strip on lid of box for leader straightening.
  5. I've probably made a couple dozen over the years, but that's easier for me than this electronic stuff! Will see if I can figure it out.
  6. Empty dental floss dispensers can be reworked- make a spool by hot-gluing discs cut from dairy product tubs, etc., on ends of the floss spool. Tying floss, chenille, tinsel, etc. can be put on it. The hole opposite the cutter may need to be enlarged, depending on material. Super easy to use and label- pull out what you want and use the cutter. Also great tippet dispensers, especially with a strip of inner tube glued to the top as a leader straightener.
  7. My bench has a back wall loaded with them, for plastic bagged materials. Several free-standing blocks have them attached vertically, great for retaining bits and pieces between ties...hot glue gun makes it easy. And the best hackle pliers ever- sand or carve the jaws down as small as needed, true them by pulling sandpaper through, provide tension with rubber bands wrapped around. I've used them by preference for 30 years, though many nice commercial ones have sat and watched.
  8. After many years of tying stationary, I find the rotary feature good for one thing- application to the bottom of the shank. Skills you develop for top of shank can be easily used on bottom. But some of these modern vises are much too complex and get in the way, dwarfing the smaller hooks. Having taught, I'd rather see beginners use basic equipment. 'Course, I'd rather they tied without a bobbin first, too....
  9. Appreciate your site, guess I'll come here more often. Lesee... been angling forever, tying since '72. (Age 12). Lived in Intermountain states mostly, a decade in the Ozarks finally let me retire early and come home to NW Colorado. Have taught casting & tying to quite a few rookies, mostly warmwater stuff, but always prefer to fish small, mountain streams with old-timey wets and regional patterns, cane rods (3 wt., and great-granddad's) or superlights (Sage 1wt.). Live overlooking a nice, well-known stream, but usually prefer to drive a ways to get on smaller water. Looking forward to learning from you folks, as my brain got lazy and stagnant years ago, and I gave up the scientific approach for the lighter one. There I is- hope not to be so wordy, anymore.
×
×
  • Create New...