WallyWabash03

You also might think about keeping your clippings from other materials in ziplock bags to make your own dubbing. As an example, I've been tying Mr. Rapidans, which have a wing from yellow calf's tail, a tail from natural moose body mane, and a mix of brown and yellow dubbing. I bought and mixed yellow and brown dubbing to start but, with each fly I tie, I save the extra clippings from the calf's tail and moose body when I trim them down. Eventually I will have enough to blend together in a coffee grinder to make my own dubbing.

My first night tying dries. Here is the third attempt: TMC 101 Size 12 Olive UTC 70 Yellow kip tail Moose body mane Dirty yellow dubbing Cree/dark ginger bar hackle

A little Mercer's Tungsten Swing Caddis.

I was just watching a Jim Misiura video in which he substituted EP fibers for a calf tail wing. I don't think it looks as good, but it worked.

Three days in Bozeman (Yellowstone, Gallatin, spring creeks) and two on the Missouri. The guide I'm using gave me a list of stuff he likes on those waters at that time of year, so I'm comfortable with the selection -- Caddis pupa (browns and greens), scuds (greens oranges and greys), pat's rubber legs, zebra midges (red and blacks), etc.

We are using a guide and he provided the list of things to tie. Of course, he will probably bring more flies and we will see what is hitting. Huge chance I tie hundreds and end up using few to none but, being new to this, they are all genetic enough to be used most anywhere.

Wondering your thoughts on the right number of flies to take on a trip. I've heard it suggested that you take four of each size and each pattern for each day. So if you were trying scuds in green and orange, sizes 10 and 12, you would want 16 flies (4 green 10, 4 green 12, 4 orange 10, 4 orange 12), for each day. As you can guess, with a recommended list of 5-6 flies, each in a few sizes, each in a few variations, for a five day trip, I'm trying to determine whether I really have ~450 flies in front of my in the next few weeks. Yes, I could buy them or rely on the guide, but who on this forum would do that? thanks.

I'm working on tying for a trip and bought a new Simms foam box today. For $30, really happy with it.

My first try at some pheasant tails (I'm a newbie!). The American, Sawyer, and beadhead. I found the beadhead to be the most difficult. I was tying it all with one clump of pheasant tail; maybe I should be using a second clump for the wing case and legs.

Picking up on the PT nymph question, do most of you weight the nymph and, if so, do you use lead weight or a TBH? Rosenbauer's American PTN has a few wraps of lead weight, Skip Morris's doesn't even have a bead. Anyone have a preference?

I'm new and have used a variety of sources. I start with Skip Morris's book, which I like because each fly build on the skills learned in the prior flies, so I use it as an "outline for what to learn on." I also like it because he has the "problems and solutions" section for each step of the fly. Once I have a fly down using his method, I will look other places for variations on the pattern, including Orvis's Guide to Essential American Flies, In The Riffle, Tight Lines videos, etc to try and put together various techniques to find the fly that works best for me.

Thanks! Size 12 on a TMC 3761.

My first shot at a Hare's Ear (new to tying). Thoughts or suggestions?

A basic Woolly Bugger that I tied for practice, though I will probably throw it at a smallmouth in the next few weeks. Thread: Olive UTC 70 Tail: yellow olive strung marabou Body: medium olive pearl chenille Hackle: black strung Chinese saddle hackle

Thanks everyone -- much appreciated. I'm up for all species; I have a 5 wt and 8 wt, so should be able to handle a wide range of stuff. Thanks again for the suggestions, and please feel free to add on.