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Fly Tying

Petr Holecek

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Posts posted by Petr Holecek

  1. Spanish perdigone nymphs have recently been an increasingly popular group of flies. They can be relatively

    easy to tie. And they are very effective for European style nymphing on different types of waters. Especially on

    very small - size 16 and 18 jig hooks.





    Material list:
    Thread: Orange floss
    Head: Tungsten silver bead, size 2.8 or 3.0
    Hook: Hends BL 120 jig hook or similar type, size 16 - 18
    Body: Black floss or similar thread
    Rib: Pink or pearl tinsel
    Tag: Orange floss
    Collar: Orange floss
    Tail: Coq de Leon
    Resin: UV Resin Deer Creek


    1. Place the jig hook with a slotted silver tungsten bead in the vice. You can use gold or pink color too. But silver

    bead is the most effective perdigones color for me. The best hooks are jigs in sizes 16 or 18. Bigger nymphs are

    not so efficient.




    2. Create a tail from Coq de Leon fibers. Do not bind it to the bend of the hook. The tail should be 1 - 1.5x longer

    than the fly body.




    3. Create a small orange tag at the end of the fly.




    4. Attach the pearl or pink tinsel and the black thread.




    5. Finish the fly's body with the orange thread. It should be tapered. I use a little bit thicker thread. It is easier and

    faster to shape the body with it.




    6. Create a black body with the thread. Tie it from the orange tag to the neck of the fly and fix it with the orange





    7. Rib the black body with pink or silver tinsel. Fix it with thread behind the tungsten head.




    8. Complete the neck with orange thread. Whip finish the fly.




    9. For the perdigone nymphs tapered varnished body‘s are characteristic. That adds a load to them and gives

    them their characteristic glassy appearance. On the market there are some various UV resins. My favorite is

    Diamond Fine from Deer Creek. This UV resin is fast, glass clear and without any residual tacks. Apply the UV

    glue carefully and from all sides with a thin needle to fly's body. Wait a few seconds - if the paint soaks into the

    thread, put it in a thin layer on these sites again.




    10. I prefer a rotary vice for tying these flies. If the fly´s body is entire covered with varnish, check its shape. Rotate

    with the fly and harden the UV resin coating with a UV torch. Exposure time is determined by the manufacturer.

    At Deer Creek it is usually about 24 seconds. If the varnish does not stick, UV hardening is completed. And the

    fly is done!




    These flies are very small and heavily loaded . It is very deadly combination. This helps flies to get quickly to the

    bottom where trouts or graylings are feeding. I use them usually for nymphing with French long leader in combination

    with other jigs, Czech nymphs or similar perdigones patterns. And I use them on my local river all the year round.





    If you have not met with perdigones on jigs hooks yet, try them! There are many patterns on the Internet by which

    you can get inspired. Here are some more.


    Perdigone nymph 2




    Perdigone nymph 3




    Perdigone nymph 4




    Tight lines!


  2. Microjig nymphs are usually tied on special microjig hook size 16 - 18 with heavy load in the head using a special slotted

    tungsten bead. Montana is my favorite pattern for brownies and rainbow trouts. It is a relatively simple fly that is easy to tie.

    On larger waters, stronger currents or for big trouts it is well applicable in a larger jig hook size too. The nymph is most

    effective in the fast currents and clear waters. Especially in the colder parts of the season.


    Tutorial is also available on http://splitcane.czweb.org/flytying/montana_microjig_nymph.pdf





    Material list


    Hook: Hanak Competition Jig Wave, size 16-18

    Head: Gold tungsten bead, size 2.5 – 2.8

    Thread: Black or brown, size 8/0

    Body: Hends Buzzer Body
    Collar: Hends Rabbit Fur black / Hends Effect Thread – fluo yellow, fluo green

    Tail: Hends Microfibets, color black




    1. Bead

    Place the jig hook with a gold slotted tungsten bead in the vice jaw. A special slot of the bead aids in sliding it onto a jig hook.




    2. Tail

    Create a tail from microfibets. Do not bind it to the bend of the hook. Trim fibers at the tungsten head, so you will get more

    regular body. The tail should be 1 - 1.5x longer than the fly body.




    3. Body

    Form a tapered nymph body with a black synthetic buzzer body. Black hare or rabbit hair will also work fine. However,

    I prefer synthetic material for this fly for its glittering effect. Leave some space for the collar at the tungsten head.




    4. Collar

    The collar serves as a fly attractor. Dub black rabbit fur on the thread and turn it on at the head of the fly.





    5.Collar II

    Wind tightly Hends Effects filament around the hook shank. A flesh color collar is an essential feature of every

    montana pattern. You can tie collars for example in chartreuse or bloody red. It depends only on your imagination.





    6. Whip finish

    Whip finish the fly and comb out rabbit collar with Velcro or a needle. Montana microjig nymph is ready.





    Similar microjig patterns:



    Silver Head Black Nymph





    Orange Tag Hare Ear Nymph





    Copper Head Pheasant Nymph





    My local trout stream in the Czech Switzerland. It is great water for nymphing with small microjigs.




    Tight Lines !

  3. Simple Deep Pupa is one of my favourite sedge deep pupa patterns. I use it mostly in the summer and early autumn during

    caddis hatch. Sometimes also during the day when insect activity is not visible. I fish it at the end of the rig in combination

    with any lighter pupa as a dropper. I lead it passively across the current with the help of floating line and I recommend to

    revive it sometimes with moderate line dragging or with short slow pull against the stream.


    The fly can be bound in various head and body color modifications – olive, green, tan, brown etc. The actual pupa size and

    color on the river can be easily determined by using the net and “Match the hatch” method or with a marrow spoon.

    Tutorial is also available on - http://splitcane.czweb.org/flytying/simple_deep_pupa.pdf




    Material list

    Thread: Light brown 8/0

    Head: Black or copper bead, size 3.3

    Hook: Tiemco 2312, size 10-12

    Body: Wapsi Ginger Antron or similar material

    Rib: Copper wire or tinsel

    Thorax: Natural dark or dark orange Hare Ear

    Hackle : Brown hen


    1. Place the hook with a black bead in the vice jaw. I prefer a black bead but you can also use silver, gold or another color.step1_zps54fayakd.jpg


    2. Attach the copper wire for the body rib. Tie it at the bend of the hook as is shown by the arrow.



    3. Prepare the Antron dubbing. Wind the dubbed thread forward to create the tapered body of the pupa. Leave some space

    for the hackles and thorax at the head of the fly. I prefer Antron for this pupa body. You can also use another shiny syntetic

    dubbing material like SLF or True Dub. The glitter of the material simulates gas inside a pupa.



    4. Rib the body from a bend to the eye with the wire. Fix it with thread behind the bead head.



    5. Create thorax. Prepare brown hen feather and wrap it between the body and the bead head.



    6. Prepare the Hare Ear dubbing from a hare mask. Cut away a few tufts of underfur with the guard hairs from the mask.

    Place the fur in the palm and mix up fibres with forefinger. You can use special dubbing rake instead. Comb out longer dark

    hair from the mask and use it as the dubbing.



    7. Arrange Hare Ear dubbing on the thread and tie it between hackles. Comb out the new thorax and pupa body with a

    dubbing needle or Velcro.



    8. Whip finish the fly. Remove the hook barb and Simple Deep Pupa is ready.




    Similar pupa patterns:


    Silver Deep Pupa



    Hare Ear Deep Pupa



    Tight lines !

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