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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by Goose77

  1. It seems that folks are unwilling to pay for fly tying information at this time. There's so much free information available...some of it isn't so hot, but a lot of it is very good. I'm glad there are tiers like you are willing to do this...even though you're basically working for free. Thank you for your efforts and cheers, Ed
  2. Hey Robert, welcome to the forum. I don't believe I can help you find inexpensive materials...it looks like flytire has a good source for you to check out. What I can say is that the forum is a really good place to learn. Good luck and cheers, Ed
  3. I followed Capt. Lamay's advice too. Fletch-Tite dries clear...it won't cloud the eyes like Goop, superglues, and E6000. These other glues are good, but care must be taken to not get them on the surface of the eyes. Also, some glues may react with your paints on a wooden bait. If you're going to clear coat over the eyes, you can use a water based or weaker glue. Cheers, Ed
  4. Oh yeah, one more thing. After you've gotten the fibers you need from the bundle, put the bundle promptly back in the bag. If it's left lying around the fibers will catch on everything in sight and become a disorderly mess. Ed
  5. These are good tips. I prefer zip-ties to tame a new bundle. I find the method by utyer very good, but use it mainly for Steve Farrar's blends. Johnnyq is right on about the number of fibers to place on the fly...it's real easy to overdo it on bundle amounts. These fibers are expensive, but you can make a lot of flies from one pack. There also are some nice alternatives through Fly Tyer's Dungeon...they're called Congo fibers. Also fine mono thread overall works better than flat threads like UTC or Danville's...it doesn't slide as much. Good luck and cheers, Ed
  6. In my experience, they are similar but not the same. The liquid fusion is easier to work with on coating bugs and popper faces than the Aileen's fabric fusion...it's just easier, better to apply. However, the end result is about the same. I, too, found Hobby Lobby recently out of Liquid Fusion. Bearsden had it, and I like it enough that I bought some rather than use my Aileen's. Cheers, Ed
  7. Very cool, Kimo...and a beautiful pic, as usual. Cheers, Ed
  8. Hey Muskie, obviously all the white/dyed over white is used, but I end up throwing out some of the dark hair on the back. Capt. LeMay is right on about using this dark hair as a spreader for split hackle tailed flies...not only does this split the hackle, but it really helps to prevent tail wrap. I use alot of bucktail, so some dark gets pitched. Cheers, Ed
  9. Stm, that's a beauty. Good luck Mike. Cheers, Ed
  10. Eide, those are good looking flies. Flytire, that is a cool idea, and I'd bet it sinks more quickly than the original...with a resin head it might be like a jig. Nice work you guys. Cheers, Ed
  11. Goose77


    Hey Philly, thank you for that Steve Farrar resource...this is a good idea. Cheers, Ed
  12. Hey Quill, on the lacquer topic. There is no specific brand that is needed for head cement. Any of the brands you might use or a wood finish are fine. And as Mr. Best pointed out, a can is like a lifetime supply. Ed
  13. Hey Chris, this is a good topic...and I believe there will be a wild variety of possible solutions given. Sally Hansen's IS good, especially for flies with a bigger head that you want to shine. I use it, but not on little flies with a small head...here I use a water based cement that is much finer in viscosity cuz it's easier to apply to a small spot. When I need to glue things to get a tough, durable bond; Flexament or the thinned shoe goo trick is excellent. I like this alot on the interior of big streamers and deer hair flies...I don't want these materials to be able to "twist" on the hook. Oh yeah, A.K. Best recommends lacquer like you can get at the hardware store, and it does work well as a head cement...it is very inexpensive. Good luck...there's alot of good alternatives. Ed
  14. Dan and Batt...beautiful work. Those look like they'd be really fun to have for looking and for fishin' too. Thank you. Ed
  15. Nice poppers for johnny...sorry about the glued up vise. Yikes! Cheers, Ed
  16. Eide, thank you. That is what i suspected. Cheers, Ed
  17. Johnny and Batt...nice deerhair work. Those dogs will hunt! This is a great start. Eide, how did you wrap that cdc? Cheers, Ed
  18. Thanks Eide and everyone...here's to a great new year! Cheers, Ed
  19. Hey Bryon, nice work and good for you. Nice bugs too...I assume the light doesn't get too warm for them. Happy New Year. Ed
  20. Nice idea flytire...I'm gonna have a look at that. Thank you and cheers, Ed
  21. Hey bigsky...hope you guys have fun on this trip. As FIN mentioned, Daniel D. Holm and Niklaus Bauer have many excellent videos regarding the construction of pike flies. Many of these are tube flies, but several are on conventional hooks. The construction of the leaders is also shown if you decide to do the tube flies. In my commercial pike flies, I don't do tubes. I don't believe most of my customers going on a once a year trip would know how to manage tubes. So these non-tube flies are tied on conventional hooks...3/0 to 5/0 Predator and Umpqua Beast are good hooks. So are some of the worm hooks by Gamakatsu and Owner. If you like topwater, then the saltwater size poppers from Wapsi are good...very durable. Rainy's makes a nice diver type head too, but it's a little expensive. Good luck to you, and if there are any other questions this site has good answers [and examples as you see]. Cheers, Ed
  22. Beautiful flies this month Dan, and thank you for starting this thread. Cheers and Happy New Year! Ed
  23. Cream...fantastic fly and video! Thank you for posting and for your inspiration this year. Merry Christmas and cheers. Ed
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