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jalberts1

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About jalberts1

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  • Favorite Species
    Brown, brook, rainbow trout
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    22

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  • Location
    Michigan

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  1. I have not been on here lately and I apologize if this topic has been discussed but what is happening with St Croix and their fly rod offerings? Are they getting out of the fly rod business completely?
  2. You have explained things very well, thank you!!
  3. Thank you very much, I know a lot more now than when I first asked this question. Not as simple as I thought it would be or as easy when you are using t line that you know weight, sink rate, etc. I still think I will fool around with it tho, Im retired and its raining again in Mich so rivers are becoming high & muddy, once again.
  4. tjm: great analogy with brick and wood, I get it. A buddy of mine suggested the throw it in a pre determined amount of water and count solution, seems simple even for me. Are you saying you can use the same method with a sinking line as you do with a floating line to determine what weight rod the line was designed for; weigh the first 30 ft and go to the chart? I would think the sinking line would weigh a great deal more and you dont know if its designed to sink at 2 fps, 4 fps, etc. ? In the past I have just put an unknown sinking line on different rods and worked thru them til I found one it seemed to fit. Very time consuming. Thanks
  5. Sure I can buy them and I have many times but why not use what is sitting on a shelf not being used if possible. Better to be re purposed/recycled than end up in a landfill
  6. I have fly lines that were on reels I purchased from online sites, a couple of them have sinking lines and I would like to cut the sinking portion off and make sink tip leaders. Obvious problem is I have no idea what density and or sink rate these lines are (nor do I know the manufacturer) I have made sink tips from t-11 and t-14 line before but I always knew what grain weight and sink rate I was dealing with. My question is can I simply weigh the sinking portion of the line (in grains) and divide by the length of the line and get an approximate idea of weight and sink rate. Example; if 20 foot of line weighs 200 grains will it act somewhat like a t-10 line? Thank you
  7. Im thinking a small crochet hook will work, Thanks Mike
  8. Anyone know the inside dimensions of the tubing used in the NZ strike indicator rigs? They advertise 2 sizes but pointedly dont give you the dimensions. Got to believe you could find the same stuff at medical supply houses or hobby stores (Pony Bead Lacing might work)
  9. Never heard of this book Mike? You have to get out in the real world more, amazing what you will learn
  10. Gentleman, This isnt rocket science. You clip the silicon strand off a baster and slide it in the hole of the bead and you have a snug fit for for your bead. Toothpicks do work but are hard on leaders. If you fish beads and you like to peg with rubber/silicone give it a try if you dont like it you are out about $2 for the baster. Remember to carry a bead with you when buying to make sure pegs are thick enough.
  11. Rocco, You are correct SA nomenclature can get somewhat confusing, unfortunately there is no single source of all the configurations that were produced. I have accumulated quite a few of the "light models" they are marked 7/8L. 5/6L etc. They fit nicely on a rod smaller than the number would indicate. I use a 7/8L on my main 5 wt rod and it fits, looks, and works perfectly. I use a regular 8/9 on my steelhead rods, bigger and heavier but will last much longer than I will and they were well used when I purchased them. The English made (and so marked) seem to be somewhat tighter than the offshore system 2's but anyone can make a very good reel if the manufacturer will pay for the trained labor. I have a System 2 made offshore and it is a nice reel, certainly worth what they charge for them. From reading many blogs & forums on vintage reels there are two things that seem to cause much confusion. #1) Did Hardy make any System 2 reels and #2) were all System 2 reels made in England (by Leeda/BFR) from what I can discern the answer is no to both questions. Hope someone with more ambition and knowledge than me takes it upon themselves to write the ultimate tome on 3M Scientific Angler reels. If I am incorrect in anything I have written please correct me, I am interested in these reels but by no stretch of the imagination do I consider myself an expert
  12. If you can find a Scientific Angler system 2 in an 8/9 configuration you cant go wrong. Great drag, built like a bank vault, bomb proof
  13. It is that time of the year for beads + steelhead/salmon/browns, please no drivel on how uncouth it is to fish beads. I am sure I am not the first to discover this but a good silicone peg source can be found in the kitchen dept at many stores, a food/turkey baster at a fraction of the cost of pegs bought at a "real fly shop" Put a bead in your pocket so you can make sure the pegs are the right size and take a look.
  14. If any of you have the same problem I do with the cheap rubber bands that are supposed to keep tippet on a spool I have a solution. I wish I could say this was my original idea but no, Im not that smart or creative. Go to You Tube and key in "DIY Spool tender" you will be directed to a short video by Tight Line Videos, it is simple, cheap, and it works. I had some trouble sliding the heat shrink material where it was supposed to go so I simply wrapped the plastic tube like you would a rod ferrule when building a rod, whip finish it and put on some Sally Hansen Hard As Nailsand it works like a charm, no more tippet trailing behind you in the brush.
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