tjm

sowbug page

I used to use 94842 for small wets and midges also #22-24, for the reason that Silver gives; apparent wider gape. But they are described as dry fly hooks.

I like those with red body and white rib. They seem to work better for me if i go part way round the bend with the body. Neat trick using the tag as the rib, I've always tied in a heavier thread as the rib, I'll be trying this. Nice video flytire. Rick, the ones I tied with glitter caught no fish, I've done best with black on white and white on black or red.

http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78239-cae-engineering-vise/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/88001-caengineering-vise/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/90480-cae-tying-vice/ http://www.caeengineeringservices.com/products/

That's where I get real sophisticated and run with ~4' of ~20# - leader is tippet

I like hand tied leaders because I can adjust the length and stiffness on the bench or on the water, and my guess is that for ~$40 of Chameleon I can tie 50-60 trout leaders, less the tippet, so mine at least are much cheaper than off the peg leaders. For bass or pan fish, mikechell has as good a recipe as any one; mine is a section of mono heavy enough to turn the fly over with a tippet small enough to fit through the hook eye. I haven't used furled leaders, but I did use 5-10 kinds/brands of extruded leaders and ended by cutting the over sized butts off and shortening the tapers and cutting the "tippet" sections back to the taper to get leaders I liked so I still had knots. I kept trying those things for two or three years and haven't bought one in maybe 15 years so maybe they are better now. Tried tippet rings too, they just aggravated me. So, what pleases one angler may not work for another- try everything and let your brain rule, don't depend on others' opinions. Opinions are like noses every body has a different one.

6/3=2x= ~6-8# for bass and panfish the leaders can be rather short which will help turn the rig over Tippets/leaders will be basically the same for most lines or rods but will vary with fly size and method used. ps; the three thing is not a law, just a starting point, some anglers like to use the largest tippet that go through the eye of the hook, in some cases this works well but in a few cases I like to use very small tippet to get less drag, you will develop methods as you learn,

In addition to Silver Creek's excellent points, I always thought the tilted back hackles (shiny side front) resulted in the flies having a tendency to stand on their heads. I still tie with the concave side towards the hook eye except on wets, then I want the fibers to curve back over the fly. Never considered that improved feathers made that different, now I have to try some the backwards way, and see how I like them!

X2

Personal health products? Just good dish soap and warm water wiped of with paper towel and repeat a few times until the paper stays clean. The lines are plastic and nothing soaks in except to melt the plastic, so anything you put on the line is going to stay on the surface and grab more dirt making the line wear faster and also wearing the rod guides- leave the plastic clean, don't make stuff harder than it needs to be. I'm still using the same 444 lines that I bought in the late '90s and they still look and cast fine. If we add stuff that makes the lines hold dirt and/or wear out faster we'll buy new lines sooner, so manufacturers may encourage us to do just that, especially if they sell the stuff? As an alternate to dish soap, rubbing the line with a bar of bath soap will do it about as much good as anything and is unlikely to harm it, wipe the bar soap off with a paper towel or clean soft cloth.

Aerial lines don't have to be insulated, that must be a huge factor. I believe there is power loss with under ground that requires bigger conductors, not sure about that; but if it was feasible financially I'm sure major power suppliers would have gone underground long ago, simply because there is no profit in repairing lines. You can call electric lines on poles 1800s tech if you want to but much of the country was still without electricity in the mid 1900s, I recall clearly when REA came up our road in '59 and we had one pull chain light in each room and one receptacle with exposed wiring put in, then six months later moved and the new place was not on the grid yet. 1961 was the first year we lived with full electric. And there were still places then that were miles and miles from power lines.

yep, they do that when they're scairt, more amazing is snakes climb trees too with no feet

Probably three factories in USA, one in Canada, one in UK, and one in China? (for plastic fly lines)

I suspect a lot of small businesses are gone for good, and I wonder if all those people who were unnecessary at work these past months will ever go back to work. There are too many of them sun bathing where I want to fish, they block all the parking and make land owners angry.

Poopdeck you should consider buying and reselling those Medalists, the parts of a working Medalist parted out are worth about twice what the reel is worth, I think the last screws I saw sell went $3 ea, the spools are almost always good and can bring @$20, latch covers $15, springs pawls $15, ratchet bearing $10, spool cam and spring $12, foot $15, all sell. The guy on ebay from NY is currently parting out a single reel for in the neighborhood of a $120. he keeps a steady supply of parts on there and occasionally sells a complete reel. If I had the sources you talk about I'd likely be doing the same thing. There's a guy from Ca that buys the complete reels there and then resells them as spool and reel frame for roughly double.

I believe the Conrads were the only genetic breeder specializing in Cree and they sold up years ago (2012) to https://clearwaterhackle.wordpress.com/about/ listed as "Inactive-Dissolved (Administrative)" now but was for sale a couple years ago. Might be worth while to contact Collins, he lists cree saddles- http://www.collinshacklefarm.com/Home.asp

Been married 48 years and She has seldom passed by a yard/garage/rummage sale, so have seen at least several, been to quite a few estate sales over the years and have yet to see any fly tying stuff or usable fly fishing stuff at either. Walked through about a zillion flea markets over the years and one time I found a terrible looking fiberglass 7wt. circa 1970 that cleaned up really well for $18, so I got one ''bargain'' out of thousands of hours looking, percentage wise it'd been cheaper to have bough new at retail price if I was actually looking for anything.

I have 444P lines on my most used rods that were new installed 2002 and still seem to as good as they did then. My first Wulff line was junk after 24 years, so your silk line should last longer than that. On the other hand the first two SA lines I had back in the '70s only lasted about a year each because of wear from being tangled and smashing into rocks, plastic can only take so much abuse.

sounds like fun, how long do you plan to cure the bamboo before working it?

Stripped peacock herl was used a long time before either Shoe goo or CA was invented, I have never used either for that but one or more of my books recommended a coat of "head cement"/ "lacquer" also known as dime store/drug store fingernail polish over the quill body, if the herl was soaked to make it usable, wait for it to dry before applying the lacquer. I have found Sally Hansen dries too hard for general use on my flies. The polish from Dollar Tree is perfect. If the herl was used dry a coat of wet lacquer under the quill will only make it more durable. As an "I never did this but think it might work" you can apply the UV resin over a quill body and zap it hard, I think that would make anything durable. Just because, I searched "Quill Gordon" and this article suggests coating the body with "Dave's Flexament" so you were spot on with the Shoo Goo! http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/fotw/041700fotw.php

My mail is distributed from KC to Springfield and back over west to here again, last week a package from Or. was in Springfield, went to St L. and to some place in In. and two days later was back St.L then back through Springfield to KC and then back to Springfield the third time for distribution to local PO and out on the route. It got here with all that quicker than it would have back in the '60s. That is a pretty rod and I don't usually like green blanks, not sure why that one looks so nice. @MuskyFlyGuy hope you get much pleasure from it.

Possible I suppose, not routinely though, I don't really target small fish and the few sunfish caught are on bass flies, the size is a guess because they are turned loose immediately. Maybe the run of the mill types are too small to hit my flies and I just never thought about it. Very small rock bass are common on the same flies, though bluegill aren't. Typical bass in these creeks is 11-12'' but I catch more 15'' + than I do less than 15'', that kinda surprises me, because 30 years ago all I caught were <13'' and lots more sunfish, not sure when or how it changed. >> The search thing says 31cm=12.2047244094488 inches, so mine must not be world class.

https://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/FactSheet.aspx?speciesID=380 31cm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_sunfish 30cm Most that I catch run about 10''-11'', but later in the summer all the sunfish in accessible spots will be down to 6-7" or smaller due to some people eating all they catch.

I think all the sunfish hybridize to some extent, I know I catch some that look like half and half most years. One major cause of invasives is the old bucket stocking by the good olboys.

You should absolutely notify the USGS, they believe Kentucky is within the native range of the green sunfish.