Lug Nuts

Cree for me, but I’d fish all three! The Adams is one of my all-time favorites and I tie and fish it regularly. I can note no noticeable difference in success rate between cree, barred dark ginger, or brown and grizzly mix. If I am tying for my own box, cree gets the call. If gifting to another, grizzly/brown mix.

I will send a box as well!

Like a mood ring! So many to choose from, very nice. Have you got a favorite? Or is the cream your go-to?

I have read (if it’s on the interwebs, it’s gotta be true!) that a black permanent marker can be used to extend the dark stripe effectively creating the cree color trifecta. As I was writing it occurred to me that it was this forum where I saw that information. Web search turned it up, screen photo of the quote because I am not savvy enough to quite that old post and have it stick here.

Do you prefer the Herbert or Red Label variation? I’ve never handled a Herbert to know, but it seems as though they tie larger flies. What other differences do you notice?

GD’s Pink Panther Tail: Coq de Leon; Body: Black mini sparkle braid (substituted for black dubbing, though the book omits the type); Rib: Copper wire; Hot spot: Hot Pink Ice Dub; Bead: Firehole This particular example is weighted with lead wire. I’ve had the most success with it down deep.

That’s a really nice one too vicrider! I have silver grade barred dark ginger cape l that I like to use as well. It is a really close substitute. The half cape of cree I do have gets me the classics, the barred dark ginger the experiments...or maybe even where Atherton suggests a lighter cree, depending on what I can find in the cape.

I have to imagine folks that have read of, but have never seen, the famed Cree cape or saddle, get severe cases of the “gotta haves.”

This is one of my top five, maybe three, dry flies. This and an Adam’s are all I use my Cree for.

eBay has been NUTS for Whiting Cree lately. $250 on up is what I have seen. I had a nice midge saddle myself. I usually don’t tie that small, so when I saw the “gold rush” going on at eBay, I let it go as well. Now I’ve just got a half saddle from an intro pack that serves me well. I wouldn’t mind sitting in your position though! Looks good.

Your ties are always interesting and I enjoy seeing them!

Looks like one or two extra in the box below!

Very nice!

My attempt at a fly I saw on a vendor’s website. I have no idea what it is called. This is my first attempt at spinning pine squirrel zonk strips. I tried to follow Tim Flagler’s instruction on another fly for the technique. It will definitely take practice, that’s for sure. That said, I know this fly will produce on my streams! Hook: size 14 curved Body: Brown tube material Thorax/hackle: Spun Pine squirrel zonk strip, tan. Bead: Firehole Pumpkin Pie 3.5mm

I am bead shopping and remembered this thread. Here is something I came across that addresses vicrider’s , as explained by Tim Drummond; When looking at the difference in beads specifically, slotted versus drilled, there is one major factor, the weight. If you look at a slotted tungsten bead versus a standard drilled tungsten bead you will notice the difference in the way the bead is manufactured so they can be mounted on standard hooks and jig hooks. On the slotted bead, the manufacturing process allows for more tungsten in the bead simply because the bead does not need to be machined as much for mounting on a jig hook. On a drilled bead there is actually more tungsten removed during manufacturing to allow for mounting to traditional hooks. So the result on 2 beads the same size, one being slotted, the other being standard, is more weight in the slotted bead due to more tungsten in the bead. I am not a machinist, so unsure of the validity, but it is one opinion anyway.