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Everything posted by cheech
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Regal Revolution Vise...How many tie on them???
cheech replied to add147's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Here is the point... You won't chip your jaws if you don't place the hook too far forward. Another point... I absolutely DESTROYED a pair of Thompson jaws in about 6 months. Why? User error. I'd clamp them down too tight. They wouldn't replace them either. -
Regal Revolution Vise...How many tie on them???
cheech replied to add147's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Holy pissing contest. People need to get outside more often and realize that opinions are OK. -
Regal Revolution Vise...How many tie on them???
cheech replied to add147's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Mine has 2 slots. It holds everything I have thrown at it. I think the stainless allows them to create more of a sharp point without as much fear of chipping the jaws. Don't quote me on that one, but it's my guess. -
Regal Revolution Vise...How many tie on them???
cheech replied to add147's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
I currently tie on a revolution vise and I switch between the stainless jaw and the big game jaw (The ratio is probably 80% stainless to 20% big game.) I was kind of skeptical at first, but I really love the vise due to the ease of use and hook holding power, and it's what I prefer to tie on right now. The only reason I switch to the big game jaw is if I tie something bigger than a size 1. -
Correct... barred dark ginger mixed with other colors is really really really really good.
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Cree was in demand long before a video... The original Adams fly called for cree hackle, and it's in demand because it's a natural color that can't be dyed and it only happens about 1% of the time. Of those times it happens only a certain percentage will rank highly on the olympic grading scale, and some cree is better than others in regards to deep colors. Another interesting thing that Dr. Whiting was saying was that a cree bird that has a nice cree cape won't usually have a nice cree saddle and vice versa.
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Cree is fun to have.... But I agree that you can achieve similar results with other colors.
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Yep. Just kind of an impromptu "tie-down" before dinner.
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This is a barred dark ginger.
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I love Cree hackle, but Barred Dark Ginger is becoming my favorite... Curtis and I had a chance to visit Whiting Farms, and it was soooo cool!
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How To Tie the Crazy Charlie YouTube Video
cheech replied to FlatsRoamer's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
These threads baffle me. OP asks for opinions and improvements. One guy makes a comment on how to make it better and OP flips out. One thing I learned a long time ago is that if I want positive feedback on a fly, I show it to my mom. She has never suggested that I make the body of my fly more durable. Here is some real, non-personal feedback on the video. 1- Film it at a different angle so the person watching can see more of the fly, and less of the hands. 2- When you tie in the braid, tie it in right behind the eyes and tie it back to the bend of the hook. This will give you more of a smooth body when you decide to wrap it forward. 3- Use fewer thread wraps on the fly. You could probably get away with half the thread wraps that you did on this pattern. For most things, two good turns will tie a material down. 4- Become more efficient with the whip finish. It seemed like only every 5th turn of your whip finish would even stay on the hook. The second whip finish completely slipped off the eye of the hook before you pulled it "tight." I'd suggest a tool to whip finish. This being said, the fly will catch fish. The only reason you should ask for feedback on this forum is to try to get better at tying the actual fly... -
Time to Learn how to Add Baitfish Eyes...
cheech replied to FlatsRoamer's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
Tear Mender or Loctite gel, but tear mender is the absolute best. -
I'll chime in here too... It seems that lots of people view Whiting as the company that sells super expensive hackle compared to other brands, but you can get a full bronze cape for just under $60. The rating scale on these capes are something to behold as well. A whiting Bronze will consistently tie many more flies than a higher grade from any other hackle company (I know a guy who did a big research project on it...) The consensus is that Whiting consistently will tie more flies for waaay less money. Think of it as buying the jumbo pack of toilet paper for a little bit more than the cost of a normal pack of toilet paper. At the end of the day you are getting toilet paper for much less $$ per square. 100 packs are some people's cup o' tea, but from a cost perspective, they aren't the best overall value. Keep in mind though, that some people will pay premiums for convenience.
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I gave you my opinion too... I think you are being way too harsh! I say modify it at will, and those modification need more foam at times. This being said, I realize that you are judging the effectiveness of a gurgler based on your (one person's) opinion. Here is another thing... If fish eat worms, why are we continually trying to "modify" our catching techniques?
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To the best of my knowledge there was no such pattern called a gurgler prior to Gartside creating the pattern and naming it the gurgler. So wether or not you call it a gurgler or a Gartside gurgler it's the same thing with or without the name of the creator attached. Anything else is a variant in the same vain as a Clouser minnow. That big loop of foam, in my opinion, is more then a variant. It is a completely different pattern with completely different movement in the water and I will assume it casts like crap. The ease of casting the gurgler is one of the reasons I like to fish a gurgler. If you have ever fished a gurgler, I assume flats has not or has fished it very little, there is absolutely no reason to modify it outside of new materials. It is a pattern that is time tested and proven. To call that a gurgler is misleading to new tyers who want to tie and fish what is normally a time tested and proven fly. This is waaaay too harsh man. Simply calling it a variation is perfectly acceptable. The "loop" of foam actually improves a lot of flies that are tied "gurgler" style especially if the tyer wants the bug to sit higher in the water. I typically do it with 4mm foam and add a loop. The flies cast great and fish great, in fact, the picture that Flytire just posted has the "loop" in the back of the foam that is much more exaggerated than the original. As far as there being no reason to modify it... I have tied them to be anything from mice to frogs, and subtle modifications to the original were the difference between fish and no fish.
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Big streamers only work in big water... I promise! No fish in moderate sized water that will eat a big big fly Don't experiment either!!!
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I have some of those S&M bobbins and I'm not a fan. You must have gotten some good tubes because all mine are good at is storing wire (Both the originals, and the Wasatch ones.)
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It might "burr" other parts too. Best to just go with Ceramic. Also... FWIW... Kevlar thread is slowly dying with all of the GSP threads out there. 200D GSP thread is unmatched for big bulky deer hair flies.
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I have used them all and I keep going back to the good old Griffin Supreme ceramic tip. It might cost more than a house brand, but I have found them to be even more reliable than even Rite or Stonfo bobbins. This being said, I'm patiently awaiting my bobbins from Loon outdoors... Those have the potential to become my new favorite. In tools, you can go mega cheap on most things, but I highly recommend getting a high quality bobbin.
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Why not start this thread with a pic of a fly???? Here's a Street Sweeper
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Polish CDC trumps all. I just got some packs of it, and the quality and length are insane....
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Little trick for those of you using pre-cut bodies
cheech replied to TheCream's topic in The Fly Tying Bench
I invented that Cream!!!! -
The Griffin Montana Pro vise (non rotary) has the same jaw that the Mongoose has, but it's like $80 or so. That jaw will literally hold anything to a 100% lock down.
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They had some issues with the makeup of their 30D threads, so they came out with 50D (which is both black and white.) I have had the same issue that the OP has had with the 30D, so I switched to 50D and it's much better. Not really much thicker thread without the issues.
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I started with the Pro Sportfisher system. They make awesome stuff.