DrLogik

Gene L, Griffin made two types of Griff's a light and a thick formula. The light was really watery.

Vicrider, No, I didn't. I use the UV once in a while and you're right, it just kind of sits on top of the threads. Solarez is what I use and they have a real runny formula for fly tyers. I might test that now that you mention it. I'm thinking it won't soak through though. It doesn't have a solvent carrier, but who knows. Good call-out.

Hard as Nails, the clear bottle that is kind of plain-jane looking, not feminine like the other bottles.

Heff2, From what I read Sally Hansen has a combination of solvents. "They" recommend their own thinner, can't recall the name but it's not rocket science. I would think any nail polish thinner would work. I'm not sure I would use polish remover though. Is it different than the thinner? I don't know. In the scheme of things it's probably cheap to use.

I recently did some casual research on various head "coatings" (as not all were "Head cement") on heavy cardboard. The cardboard was the back of one of the TU note pads we get each year. I thought that fitting. I wanted to see which ones actually penetrated and which ones remained on the surface only. They were a wide range of coatings, some solvent-based and others water based and one that was denatured alcohol based. Most results I got were expected but I did get a couple of surprises. They had to leave a sheen/shine on the surface but they also had to penetrate through the cardboard. Of the 11 different coatings, only 4 penetrated. Of those 4, only one left a sheen on the surface - shiny actually. Plus one more that partially penetrated and left a shine. Two penetrated and did not leave a shine. Those two were Fly-Tite and Pharmacist Formula. Guess what, the one that had the sheen and penetrated isn't head cement and neither was the one that partially penetrated! The winner? Sally Hansen's! I was not really expecting that. I may post the results on my web site and post the link. The one that partially penetrated and left a shine was.............. New Skin! Yep, that liquid wound covering stuff....and it's flexible too! and to a degree waterproof. The other surprise was Cellire. It left a very shiny surface but did not penetrate at all. I don't think people that are users of Sally Hansen need vindication but I have to admit that I never really liked the stuff. I mean, it's nail polish. I'm starting to change my mind.

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What did you learn from this?

I started fly tying by Reuben Cross's book, "Tying American Trout Lures" in 1972-ish and never stopped. Currently I'm on the North Country Spider binge though. Gadabout is right, they still catch fish.

Gene, I saw that same vise and contemplated.... I couldn't pull the trigger. Yeah, that was a pretty good deal you got! I remember when the Patriot first came out. I thought long and hard but decided to buy a used Dyna King Pro off of FleeBay and it's been a gem. How is the Patriot to tie on? What vise is it similar to?

Oof, don't get me started. I have too many also but the absolute coolest one I have is an original Thomas vise vise, aka the "Darbee" vise. Simplicity and beauty personified in a metallic object. Here is Harry and Elsie Darbee's fly tying desks set up side by side at the Catskill Fly Fishing Museum in Livingston Manner, New York. This is what a production fly tying desk looked like back in the day. When I was there a number of years ago I saw that vise and had to have one. I found one on FleeBay for $20 bucks! Elsie at her tying bench: Harry at his bench:

I've been making my own leaders off and on for years. I still do occasionally. I seldom use furled leaders. I like them, especially silk furled leaders but they send off too much spray like Bryon stated. On large streams it's not too much of a problem but on the small streams in the Smokies that I fish it turns the fish off in a hurry. I mostly use Orvis leaders and my own tied leaders now. My leaders don't follow the norm though. I make them a 70/30 formula instead of the standard 60/40 formula. In windy or short casting conditions I find the more aggressive taper turns over the leader and fly better. A 70/30 leader also works better for long leaders (14-16+ feet). I also use a max of five sections and often just four. I don't notice the difference. I used to tie them with the 6 or more sections and it took too long and it was too aggravating. I tried a simpler leader and it worked just as well for my use. I also follow the George Harvey philosophy of using the softest mono I can find. I used to use Mason hard mono for the butt but figured out that Harvey was right, it's just too stiff and doesn't accept the transfer of the energy in the line well.

The late Dave Brandt, Catskill tyer extraordinaire, soaked quills in small vials with water and a little glycerin (as flyflinger suggested above). His warning to me was don't leave them in the water too long. A day or two max because the quills will start to degrade and give off a really nasty odor. Another thing Dave Brandt did was re-use the long feathers he used for tailing and leave the last bit of tip on the feather and save those in a box for quilled flies. He left the tip on so he could see what color/type the feather was.

niveker, Yep, Para-D kills bugs, it doesn't just repel them. I pour those crystals into stainless steel tea infusers that I got at the grocery store for cheap. I put one in each plastic box with materials. Like moth balls, the crystals evaporate also but in the closed plastic box I think it still has a residual/lingering effect even when they evaporate completely. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Infuser-Filter-Handles/dp/B085HYT7VD/ref=sr_1_45?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4LzLQuhdV90DJW2yUcNtmzDW0DM95kRt_dRTfJS3Xhlx2c2jTrgq_YkeDcedKf5KIJj_wGsUvsrEBoOOQ7__uMJ6Ov-lmtdm8l1FA43qoJUwQZXLY57taliJkg7KRe_J6E12Ympk1LusHFIguEJUqd0FS0Hi82Aa1MFXjn8uLQwaTX3QhTilmzG5phOwOSmb_8e3F2DTK2ldkOGsfnidZIKSJHiOdG8Lc-W6SuniMPc9yvm3ybkUMTQ4S3ysSS-E8TueuW3uKGZdnJga33gaAdYiSyiEsvXYbklYjeDEiCA.E7ykoPCAyDa4WRM6uJshz_MpMtrH-JzQEb2Uxxu2PF8&dib_tag=se&keywords=stainless+steel+tea+infuser&qid=1716224584&sr=8-45

When I was in Roscoe New York years ago I stopped by the old Dette shop and Mary was behind her Dyna-King Pro and I asked her what they use. She said "moth crystals". She went in the back and brought out Enoz Moth Crystals. Made with paradichlorobenzene. I"ve been using that ever since and have never had a problem with bugs. This stuff doesn't hang on to the "moth ball" smell for very long like regular moth balls do. This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Enoz-Moth-Ice-Crystals-3/dp/B00XNN72PC?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I went from a vest or chest box to a waist belt. A waist belt with Firstlight suspenders is far more comfortable for me. I also wear all stretchy hunting clothing primarily from KUIU. I couldn't be happier and I'm 66 also. The stretchy clothing is amazing and it sure helps scrambling up stream banks and rocks, which I still do. And I can use the same pants and wet wade if I choose. Once I get out of the water they drain quickly and "dry" in about 30 minutes. This is a big deal because I also go backpacking in the Smokies and fish as well. Those pants are a game changer as I can hike in them too. I wear a Simms stretchy wicking long sleeve hoodie (even in the summer) for comfort and to keep the mossies at bay. I am done with anything cotton. I switched to all synthetics decades ago. I think that is key to staying comfortable no matter the temperature or weather. When winter comes I stick to Merino wool on top. That stuff is a game changer also. Oh, and Kuiu's stuff goes on sale regularly (the only way to buy it IMO) and they have an "outlet" online. Buy once, cry once and be comfortable for years. The pants: https://www.kuiu.com/products/tiburon-pant-ash?variant=42623694078110 The shirt: https://www.simmsfishing.com/products/bugstopper-solarflex-hoody?variant=42165278998718

Flies smaller than 16 are a no-go unless it's a Griffith's Gnat. Those I can still handle. It's the eyes, not the hands. I keep putting it off but I need to get a pair of those wear-on-the-head magnifiers.

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That's a nice "feature"! And here I thought it was me.

I started out using a traditional Columbia vest 50 years ago, then a Filson Strap vest, then a Richardson Chest Fly Box (which I still use occasionally) but I now wear a belt that I made from military surplus pouches. I added suspender straps and I'm never going back. You can make a REALLY nice set up with a surplus "war belt" and utility pouches off of eBay. I made mine for under $100 bucks and it will never wear out, ever. The best part is I can fish all day and the back and neck never get tired.