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germanbrown

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About germanbrown

  • Rank
    Beginner
  • Birthday 11/18/1973

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  • Location
    cache la poudre river
  1. you can get the same brushes that flex coat sells at Wal Mart - in the craft section. That's what I use. The synthetic bristles seem to not trap air bubbles and don't come off of the brush and into the finish.
  2. another thing you can do is get those rub on letters from the hobby / crafts store and mark your rod that way.
  3. i'd try the drill - drill that sucker out of there. i use my drill to ream out cork grips - much quicker than a reamer or file - and if you're fairly careful you can still achieve a good fit. actually i drill most of it out, then get the nice, fine-tuned fit at the end with the rat tail file. do you have a drill press? it's pretty easy to turn your own on a drill press. good luck - you'll get it figured out.
  4. Chris - thanks for the input on flaming the pith vs. heat treating in the oven. I'm interested to see how my current rod turns out with just the heat treating as all my rods up to this point have been dark flamed.
  5. i'll have to check that taper out Chris. I've looked at other FE Thomas 3 wt. tapers. It's probably a nice medium action huh? do you have much use for a short, light line rod up in AK? is that going to be your grayling rod? you make some good looking sticks man. keep up the good work.
  6. Chris - do you notice a change in color from heat treating in an oven vs. flaming the pith of the culms? The Dickerson 8053 that i'm starting on, i'm planning on heat treating in the oven, and not flaming - i'd like to get a lighter color. thanks for all your input. -Matt
  7. cool. thanks for the replies guys. personally - i still have a hard time accepting epoxy on wraps on bamboo - maybe you guys can help me get past that - i'll probably have to try it some time. i hated working with flex coat on graphite rods - spar varnish seems so much easier to work with FOR ME. like i said before, everyone has their own way of achieving basically the same goal - and this is a good thing IMO. thanks again for sharing.
  8. very nice. great looking rod OSD and chris. Chris - Did you flame or heat treat the bamboo? did you flame the pith side like the FTOTY rod? Is the blank impregnated or does it have any finish on it yet? OSD - how do you plan on finishing the rod? epoxy? varnish? I really like the hardware and colors you've chosen on the rod - very classy. good job.
  9. killer looking rod Chris. I love the agate stripping guide and reel seat. I plan on getting a nice agate stripper from GW for my next rod. The clear wraps I've done, I've used warm, thinned spar varnish for the first couple coats and they turned out pretty nice. I've never heard of the walnut oil. It seems there are so many ways to achieve the same goal in rod making - everyone seems to do things just a little bit differently - there's always new tricks and tips to pick up - always something to learn. thanks for sharing your pics and methods with us - it's a great looking rod. what length is it? i'd like to make a 6'6" 3wt one day.
  10. I like the looks of that taper Carl. I'm wanting to make a 8' 5/6wt rod next that is a fast action and good for larger water using streamers and nymphs, but that will also throw a nice dry fly when needed. I'm considering the taper posted above or a Dickerson 8013. Can you comment on these two tapers since you've made both? Thanks. -Matt
  11. http://life.champuru.com/archives/000222.html http://www.ebay.com.sg/viItem?ItemId=5721428146 http://www.readymademag.com/feature_13_cdlamp.php
  12. i just found the RodDNA taper database - that looks like a really cool program. thank god for google.
  13. QUOTE (Carl @ Oct 20 2004, 07:23 PM) It is a 'mystery Dickerson' taper that is listed in the RodDNA taper database. Using standard Dickerson numbers it would be a 801610. The stress curve looks fairly similar to an 8013, but in a 3pc. It had very tiny tip dimensions for it's size (.051), so I actually beefed that up a tad to .065, plus I made a couple other minor modifications to smooth the curve a little bit. What is the RodDNA taper database? I'm considering making a 8' based on a Dickerson taper for my next rod. maybe a 8014? .051??! that's insane. .0255 on each tip strip? i don't even think i can get my form that tight. have you cast this rod yet?
  14. QUOTE I notice that you are located on the Poudre. Any chance you are located near Fort Collins? I went to CSU before moving to Alaska, and grew up in Colorado. I live in FC. I grew up here and have lived here off and on for the last 27 years, with detours in Seattle, Steamboat, Leadville, Denver and Boulder. I also went to CSU. I graduated in 2000 with a CS degree. You live in Alaska now? The taper on my first rod was from a 8' Granger. The rod I'm working on right now is a copy of my 7' Granger.
  15. awesome rod carl. it's absolutely gorgeous. you have a very lucky friend in NZ. I have a question about the taper. I'm not familiar with the Dickerson 8053. I thought the Dickerson model numbers consisted of the length and ferrule sizes. Could it be a 801513? just curious. i'm working on my second rod right now and i hope i can progress as fast as you have - your rods look great!
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