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Fly Tying

Robert T

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About Robert T

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/02/1942

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  • Favorite Species
    Bass and Trout
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  • Location
    Crystal River, FL

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  1. Been reading about Catskill flys and ran accross something new to me. It was the double quill duck wing. I did one and what a time it is to keep the four slips lined up. I really don't see the purpose of the double slips as the end result looks no different the using a single pair of slips to me. The only reason mentioned on why double slips were used is because that is how it was done in Briton. Question is: Why go through all that trouble and what end purpose do the double slips server? Thanks for any information about this. Bob
  2. Thank you all for the wonderful advise. I really appreciate it. Will take all into consideration before making the purchase. Bob
  3. Thanks guys. I may go with the set up mentioned as it will give me lenses that will cover a wide range. Since I am not 'into' photography and want to limit the $$ this may be an OK setup for me. If, later, I want better macro capability, then I could get the macro lens. Again, thanks for the input. Bob
  4. Hi All, I mostly hang out in the classic forum and was told this is the place for photograpy questions. I am looking to get a DSLR so I can get better close up shot of my flies. I want to be able to manual focus, set small f-stops for better depth of field and have good macro capability without a macro lens per say. Of course would use the camera for other things too. Went to a local Ritz store and looked at the Nikon D60 and Canon Rebel XSi. The Nikon did not have 'live view' and could not both select macro mode and set aperature at same time (at least the clerk at the store did not know how to do this). The Canon did have 'live view', which I really want, but again could not set f-stop and be in macro mode at the same time. The clerk suggested getting a Quantaray 70-300 zoom that has a macro setting and using it with the Canon. We tried it and it looked like it may work. By standing 3' or so back and zooming in, the image in the live view LCD looked really good. Plus I would have a nice all round outfit and all this for $950. So, the question is: Is this a good way to go? Thanks for any help. Bob
  5. Just noticed that the database links do not correspond to the fly posted. Thought I would let you know. Bob
  6. Are the Streamer and Wet fly forums going to be part of the Classic move?
  7. Another trick to using sword is to leave the barbs attached to the stem until after they are tied in. Just cut off the number of barbs you want (for a Jock Scott say 3 or 4) and leave them attached to the rachis. This keeps them sort of inline while tying them in. You can still manipulate the curve, as mentioned above, while the barbs are attached. Bob
  8. Bud, Nice tye! I like how you posted the smaller image and gave a choice at a larger one. The mega images are hard to view the entire fly at once and take to long to load. I wish everyone would post both smaller and larger images. If one wants to scrutinize the details then they can take the time to download the large image. Bob
  9. Part of the problem is that we all don't have all to good reference material available to us. By labeling the flies as found in the popular and mostly available books is not intended to take away from the originator's prestige. When we lable flies as such and someone knows the history of that fly, I for one would love to be educated in replies to the post. Bob
  10. Harold, I just went thru the search for streamer feathers last summer. I found that the one's from John McLain were very good and also the Whiting American Rooster Saddles worked for me. John has some really nice colors to choose from and they match the Carrie Stevens colors that are shown in Hilyards book showing orignal flys from Carrie. Bob
  11. Dave, The only thing I can add or say is Deal With It. You have too much talent to worry about little set backs now and then. I know it is hard sometimes (I have been dealing with my hearing problem all my life) but you just have to hang in there. If you want to take a spring break and get away from that cold winter weather, you and your wife are welcome to come down and visit us in FL. Just let me know. Bob
  12. Sorry for the delay...been busy The name tag is done on the computer using a gold mailing label. Mark the acrylic rod is drilled with a very small drill (I used a #70 drill in a pinvise) about 1/2 way thru the rod. The hook is then crazy glued into the hole in the rod. The rod is pushed into the foamboard after using an awl to punch a hole. This holds very well by itself, but I still put a dab of glue on the back where the rod come thru the foamboard. Bob
  13. Dave there is a strand of herl out of place so you got to razor back and replace the butt.... :) Love that graduated floss. Bob
  14. James, I started out trying to use thin wire to mount the streamers, but in these particular boxes (store bought) that did not work out well. I wound up just using white glue at the bend of the hook. Since it dries clear it does not look bad at all and hold the flies nicely. I have since been told that Marvin Nolte used similar mounting technique, but used clear silicone caulking instead of white glue. As for drys, wets and MOMS, if you tie in a piece of thin wire first before starting the fly, it make a nice way to mount in shadow boxes. Using a fairly stiff, thin wire that is still flexible lets you bend it out of the way when putting on the wings, etc. Just tie around it on the body. I have also use straight pins, but they did not bend out of the way and made tying the fly harder. For my salmon flys, I am using the 1/8 dia acrylic rod with a small hole drilled in it for the point of the hook (use no. 70 drill and drilled hole halfway thru rod by hand using pinvise) A spot of crazy glue hole the hook in place. Rod is hard to find. I found it at a hobby store in Orlando FL. Hope this helps. Bob
  15. Dave, that is fantastic. You and yours have a wonderful and very Merry Christmas. Bob
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