western midge patterns wanted

[Addict 0]

I'm looking for some midge patterns that work well in Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, and Utah. What are some must have patterns that I need to add to my arsenal?

 

Thanks,

Addict

[flytire 0]

R U ready!

 

http://www.danica.com/flytier/nfrechette/nfrechette.htm

 

http://www.danica.com/flytier/rtakahashi/rtakahashi.htm

 

http://www.danica.com/flytier/jduran/jduran.htm

 

http://www.danica.com/flytier/jbarela/jbarela.htm

 

http://www.danica.com/flytier/ccraven/ccraven.htm

 

 

That should keep you in midges for awhile

[Addict 0]

Thanks flytire,

 

Those are just what I needed. A recipe along with a picture.

Thanks again!

 

Addict

 

[nightfish 0]

An essential midge pattern for UT is the simple Zebra midge...black, brown, red, tan, olive, from #12 & #14 for stillwater, and down to #26 for moving water. TMC 2457 or 2487

 

Flashback WD-40's would come in 2nd. Black or rusty olive have worked best for me, but red is important too...#16-#24 on TMC 2487

 

On top, a Griffith's Gnat...traditional or with an upright wing of white antron for visibility...#16-#24

 

Parasol midge or dandelion, same colors/sizes as the zebra.

 

A local favorite is the Bunny Midge. TMC 2488, single strand of cream or rootbeer midge flash as a shuck, another strand for ribbing. Thread body. The wing is snowshoe hare foot, tied in spinner-style, then wrapped a few times around the base to elevate the wings, but still keeping them divided. Black, brown, olive or cream thread (Gordon Griffith's 14/0 is best). #18-#30 (with #26-#30 being tops in winter).

 

In addition, some UT streams have high densities of sowbugs (the Provo for example), and they will outfish midges almost any day:

 

HOOK: TMC 3769

THREAD: 8/0 to match body or red

RIB: fine silver wire

BACK: choice of small pearl mylar, pearl flashabou, peacock or dark stretch flex, single strand

DUBBING: WAPSI Sow/Scud, light sow, gray or rainbow

 

Attach thread, wire & flashback. Dub length of shank, in a fairly sparse but shaggy amount. Pull over the back material & tie off at the head. Rib with 5 or so turns of wire. Use a bit of velcro to brush out dubbing. Trim bottom flat, & sides to 1/2 of hook gap on either side.

A sowbug has a very flat profile & thin body, but has lots of legs like a centipede. You don't want so much dubbing that you can't see through it when held up to the light. A quicker version, but somewhat color limited, is to use a single strand of ostrich herl, wrapping evenly up the shank, then trimming flat on top & bottom. Apply the same rib & back as the dubbed version.

 

Fish a sowbug 12" behind a beadhead, & right on the bottom.

 

 

[Addict 0]

Thanks Nightfish,

 

It's good to get a list of midges that work locally.

 

I've already found the black zebra midge to be very effective after tying some up within the past two weeks. They worked well for me on a recent trip to south eastern idaho. When tying the other colors do you use the silver wire as well?

 

Would you happen to have a picture of a bunny midge?

 

Addict

[nightfish 0]

I tie all my zebra's with silver wire, silver tungsten bead.

 

Here's a few links to the Bunny Midge(flies & photos by Lonnie on http://www.utahonthefly.com ):

 

http://home.comcast.net/~shullln/bunny.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~shullln/bunnyfront.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~shullln/bunnybottom.jpg

 

The pictures show two pieces of flash for the shuck, and regular krystal flash. I use a single, especially for #26 & smaller, and prefer the midge flash. Either way, it's an effective pattern.

 

Do a search at UTOF for a ton of bunny midge info.

 

Where are you from, & where in S.E. ID were you fishing? I'm in Utah, & split my time between Logan & SLC.

 

[Addict 0]

Hey Nightfish,

 

Check your email.

 

Addict